Hello guys, I have a '96 RHD civic sedan with D16Y block (VTEC-eco OBD2a), P08 sohc (Pure VTEC) head and P70 remapped ECU (OBD1) + dastek piggyback. So theoretically its running pure VTEC with OBD1 ECU now.

I got this error when I was cruising on freeway and decided to park at a rest area(gas station). When I was done with my things, started up the car and it started but dies right away afterwards. Jumped the CEL socket and got error #15. Can't do anything, waited for like 90 mins and it starts just fine

At first I thought it was the coil, so i changed it and uses 90KVolt external coil. Also had checked the wires going to dizzy and they gave voltages.
The next day, problem persists. Then I changed the igniter and one of the spool inside the dizzy..
BUT WTF?! Today it did the same thing all over again. I don't know what else to fix. I've spent almost $200 on these things and I don't want to spend much more.. Quite frustrated
Maybe I have to change the dizzy into OEM P08 ones? Not sure of it tho since most dizzy is about the same and doesn't require to change into pure VTEC ones (CMIIW)

an addition cliff note:
1. OEM leads
2. Non-racing spark plus
3. Just found out that the rotor has slightly warped on the metal side.

 

Bump.........

 

bumpppppppppp

 

btw it doesn't misfire unlike others do.

 

1) Check the Blk/Yel wire attached to coil and igniter unit for battery voltage.

2) Check the Yel/Grn wire for an open or short.

3) Swap in a known good ECU.

 

agreed. if i might add also do this test when it doesn't start

 

^Excellent point

 

im a pro at diagnosis graduated top of the class for honda/acura been into honda/acura seen since mid 90's family street racing love is how is started.

 

1) Igniter shows 11.95v and ignition coil shows 11.90v

2) Nope, it gives 11.20v

3) Can't help it, this kind of ecu is rare here and very expensive. Bought one at around $400. But I had my ecu repaired by a mechanic, he said some of the IC gave low ouput so he changed it.

Problem is I don't know the exact time she won't start.
It's an intermittent problem and when she won't start, I'll just have to wait an hour or so then she'll start finely.

 

You must test for voltage at ECU terminals A21 and A22? Is that what you did?

 

Nope, I tested directly from the wire that goes to the ignitor.
How do I test voltage at pin A21 and A22? By back-probing it?
I'll try it tomorrow, it's already dark here.

BTW, I took a couple of pics of my dizzy rotor and dizzy cap. It's a bit worn out.. However, I'm not sure if it affects the problem. I don't feel that it has something to do with the problem.

 

Unplug ECU connector A for the voltage tests.

 

I get 11.77v at pin A21. But I don't have the cable heading to A22.
Perhaps from A/C system as I never get this problem when I turned off the A/C? Could that be the problem?

 

bump.....

 

Bump.... :3

 

Again, as stated here^, all of your electrical tests are meaningless unless they are done when code 15 is thrown and the engine won't start.


I'm not sure what an OBD1 P70 ECU is, but unlike an OBD2 system where one ICM wire runs to one ECU pin, the OBD1 system has one ICM wire that branches to two ECU pins (A21 and A22). Is this possibly the problem?

 

Im having the same CEL. And my cars redlining at 3.3k

 

Read this thread carefully and do the mentioned electrical troubleshooting.

 

Ok I'll try when it won't start again.

Actually the P70 itself has a pin at A22, but my OBD1 to OBD2a harness doesn't have the cable for A22. Should I connect A22 with A21 myself? Or I change the plug from A21 to A22 when it won't start?

 

Is is recommended to jump wire from A22 to A21?