"Came off a da teg, will bolt roght up to ef hatch, 4 door, and crx. The cables included will only work for hatch though."

heard some people saying you need a newer integra for the swap, can you use a DA teg for it?

found posted on craigslist and im curious to if i can use it on my 91si

 

Yes. I have DA rear brakes on my 90 Si.

 

okay, tanks ill hve to look into what all he has included. for $100

 

Yeah I also have da brakes on my 89 crx. All I had to get was the 90-91 crx si e-brake cables and make my own brake lines. Everything else should bolt right up.

 

Make sure you use your EF toe arms (the longer ones). The idiot who did my swap (previous owner) used the DA arms and I had massive toe-in in the rear

 

You can use them, but your rear track will be off...

 

any 90-01 teg and 90-00 civic will work fine.

 

Measurements speak for themselves…

If you want to see what I’m talking about; go to page 3 post #70 of the link in my signature.

I’m not saying they won’t work, but there aren’t correct.

 

I looked at post 70 and saw no measurements. I've done plenty of rear disk swaps, never had an issue, sorry you did, probably installed them with incorrect parts.

 

I’m not going to get into an argument over something as trivial as incorrect trailing arms, but if you look at the 4th picture in post #71, 9th picture #75, and post #79.







I’m glad you assumed I used incorrect parts because that’s not the case. Well, unless using the DA trailing arms is considered to be the wrong part…

I was told and tried to verify many different times before putting forth the effort to make the DA arms work. After I rebuilt them with new trailing arm bushings, paint, and finally installed them they didn’t work with the wheels I use to run on the car before the trailing arm swap.

I was hoping a bit of effort would go into this, but I’ll show you my measurement method since you couldn’t take the time to look through the thread. Post #70 was the starting point at which I took the time to install my SSR’s on the car for fitment as something looked wrong. Fortunately I set up both ED’s the same so it was very easy to compare track width from car to car.





So, just because you’ve used them many times doesn’t mean they’re correct. They do work, but I’ll reiterate they are not correct.

 

take it easy and get off your high horse, I've never had fitment issues after putting DA rear trailing arms. If you did so be it, I know they work without throwing things off as it did for you. One bad apple doesn't prove anything.

 

I’ve proven my point without my high horse. Our definition of “throwing things off” is apparently very different. I use measuring devises and comparison while you seem to be using your “calibrated eyecrometer”.

So, to the OP take the information for what it’s worth. I’ve shown - with two nearly identical ED’s that - there’s a fitment issue. I never once said they wouldn’t work, but I caution you as your rear track will be wider than if you were to use “EG” or “DC” rear trailing arms.

Just an FYI. I’m not criticizing anyone here, but when you have a semi-virgin car that works before you change an item and then doesn’t after; you start looking into the root cause. In this case and I bet many others you’ll find that the trailing arms may as well be the culprit…

 

Well lucky for people like you, they made this kit...

http://www.fastbrakes.com/product_p/...isc%20swap.htm

Act fast though there are only 5 left!

Make a jig and show me the trailing arms are dimensionally different by mounting each one up. Until then I can careless because I have had zero issues like you have had doing trailing arm swaps whether it be DA,DC,or EG. Just to be clear as well, EF,DA,DC/EG ALL have different track widths...

ALSO use the same car, suspension varies between car to car and trailing arm to trailing arm as well since bushings are ALL different. It could be possible the RTA bushings on one are pressed too far in or not enough from one arm to the other. There are many factors that could account for the difference. As I said, make a jig for the front, lower and upper mounts, as well as the wheel studs and prove yourself right.

 

Thanks for the link, but “people like you”? I’m pretty sure I have proper fitting rear disk brakes on the ’90 without the help of any aftermarket solutions.



I don’t need a jig as my point of reference was the arm itself.


See above

You’re taking facts way to personal, but some people don’t like to be wrong.

The two links below in addition to the previously provided pictures give more than enough information to prove my point. I’ll admit the pictures don’t do much for clarity, but they do give an overview of the broad stroke differences like shape and stamp differentials.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...8&postcount=89

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showpo...4&postcount=93

When I measured them - both on the car and off - they came out the same. The on car measurement drove the off car measurements. If you look at the picture of the plumb bob you’ll notice that I was using the LCA bolt as my point of reference in relation to the hub.

Both trailing arms were measured the same way eliminating the chassis variable. So to your point about the track widths of the different chassis; yes, they’re going to be different. But, when you have three chassis using the same LCA with only slight deviations i.e. drilled for the sway bar and/or ABS you can take that out of the equation and turn to the chassis as the primary difference or the way it was measured.

Take the “EG’s” 1465mm rear track compared to the “DC’s” 1470mm that’s only 2.5mm per side. So, until I have time to look at the measuring points of reference we’ll call it 5mm difference not the 25mm I encountered using the DA trailing arm.

 

lolz I'm done with this, you still fail to prove the trailing arm is what causes the issue. Only true way to do that is to make a jig to hold the arm together and show the hub is further out on the DA compared to your stock civic with drums. When you are able to either do that, only then will I acknowledge that they ARE different, until then, I will continue to use the trailing arms which have not proven to have any issues when I install them properly.

 

I guess we’ll just have to agree to disagree because a straightedge and a machinists rule is going to show more than a jig.

So, now I think you’re just fishing as I’ve shown more than enough information.

 

Would a rear camber kit fix it? Im about to do the same thing to my ef sedan and im using da sedan TA and e brake cables. But i have a rear camber kit as well. **** actually i have 2

 

I should let the expert answer this, but a camber kit wouldn't fix the problem I ran into when correctly installing my rear trailing arms from a DA. ;-)

 

Damn

 

Sent message...

 

Thank you for the info 01-0041. When I first started tracking my CRX I had DA trailing arms on the car and it pushed pretty bad. Now I see why.

 

^ It's probably because you used your DA toe arms and didn't get an alignment...I had a DA rear disc conversion and everything aligned as it should. Car drove fine, etc etc.

 

Could be the case, but assuming Geemac had a semi decent alignment before he went to the track; some of his push could have been caused by the increased rear track…

 

I used TA off a 90-91 Integra two door with the ebrake cables off of it too and it worked just fine and was all straight after i dumped the car and aligned it with camber kits.

I used this same setup on my 88 hatch and current 90 sedan.

 

I thought the two door ebrake cables were too long for efs which is why i got the sedan ones