Put the Sol in the Garage Yesterday and am begining to order parts for my turbo build. This car is going to be being built over the next 4 months and along w/ a "full engine build" it is also getting misc. body work (small dents and light rust repair) fixed.

Below is "my parts list"

Any input would be appreciated why or why not to use something vice versa.

D16 Built To BOOST Project SOLREAPER

Block:
Hot Tanked - Decked - Honed
Block Guard
75mm Vitara Pistons
Forged I-beam Rods
ACL Bearings (Main,Rod,Thrust Washers)
OEM Timing Belt
OEM Water Pump
FULL OEM Gasket Set (Stock or Cometic.030mm Headgasket)
Notched Sleeves and Journals

Head:
Skunk Pro2 Intake Manifold
Valve Job
ARP Head Studs(P# - 203-4301)
Supertech Valves, Springs, and Retainers
Catch Can between Intake and PCV
Zex Turbo Cam (P# 59300)

Turbo Parts List:
.57 Trim 55 A/r Greddy or Turbonetics or w/e turbo Nothing ebay
Log Style Manifold
2.5” Downpipe
38mm Wastegate (dumptube)
Tial BOV
Oil Feed/Return Kit
Charge Piping
Intercooler
Couplers and Tbolt Clamps

Fuel:
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump (OEM Filter Screen)
DSM Black Top 450 Injectors

Misc:
New Clutch and Flywheel
Street Tuned on Crome to drive to Get Dyno Tuned
High Flow Cat
OEM Oil Pump
S2k Oil Filter


Again any input/ideas would be appreciated (Yes i have searched, yes i have googled. This is MY build list All im really interested in is why X wouldn't work with X and why)

 

Block.
Many will tell you to overbore to 75.5 to insure the cylinder walls are truly in round and to avoid the dreaded piston slap.
Depending on the rods the block may or may not have to be notched.
I don't think ACL is in business any more. You'll probbly wind up getting King bearing instead.

Head.
Looks fine.
Someone may beg to differ.

Turbo.
Where's the turbo?
You can't do anything without it.

Fuel.
I can see you're not going for big power.
If you're building the block you should leave room in those injectors for more boost later.
Maybe get some 750cc.

Oil pump.
Which engine?
If it's a Y8 I'd get a port and shimmed pump OR possibly a Z6 crank.
The S2K oil filter will help out with additional oil pressure.

Clutch. Get a clutch that will hold the power you're going to put down. All this stage 1 stage 2 stuff is totally arbitrary.

Some of your parts are pretty generic.
I would go with Hondata or Neptune for the EMS. And a real dyno tune. The physical installing of the parts is a small part of a turbo build in my opinion. The real magic is in the tune. I also see nothing listed for monitoring your engine like gauges or a wideband.

This will probably be moved into the Forced Induction forum where better people with more experience than me and my entry level system can give better advice.

 

 

I have a build thread and you can see a lot of my parts are from ebay - bov, piping, intercooler, manifold, etc. They've worked for the past 12k mile and counting...I'm making 235whp at 8psi on a stock y8.

 

Also they sell a teflon coated true 75mm Vitara that supposedly doesn't piston slap on a stock bore...I'd research more on that if I were you - check out d-series.org for a ton of more information.

 

Can you link the thread. Please and thanks


Thanks for the info!

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/appearance-build-threads-122/1997-civic-ex-sedan-2969915/

The turbo stuff is about halfway down the page

 

Here's the $79 shipped Walboro with install kit

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-49/walbro-pump-w-kit-79-shipped-rc-injectors-2819191/

Again, what are your power goals?

 

You should look at the single cam thread in the FI forum. Pages and pages of builds.

BTW. I saw where you listed CROME as the software. I know it's free but if I read this correctly, it's no longer being developed. I wouldn't want to run my engine on old and discontinued software. I had my car intially tuned on it and immediately afterwards found this out. I have a full Neptune RTP sitting here in a P28 waiting to go in.

Also, Ebay builds have been proven to be hit or miss.

As for coated teflon pistons that's good news BUT I would still have the shop check the cylinders to see if they might be out of round.

 

250-275 hp maybe 200-225 tq

Thanks for the link as well


Thanks for the info, Crome was listed because i have a friend who has his Civic tuned on it, I assumed it was still being developed if not i'll look for something different for sure

 

I said Ebay building meaning some parts are from Ebay. I wouldn't recommend using an Ebay turbo as those are hit-and-miss, and definitely don't use feed/drain lines that are really cheap from Ebay.

+1 on checking the cylinders - lots of people on d-series.org throw in pistons and get away with it, but the only way to be sure is to check them.


As far as Crome - I'm tuned on Crome Gold and it's fine - however a reputable tuner around here blew up my friend's B16 due to Crome and switched to Neptune immediately. I heard Neptune is a lot better but Crome still works. I paid $150 for a street tune on Crome which I would NOT recommend - I'm surprised it's lasted so long. Get a GOOD dyno tune and you won't regret it!

DSM injectors will be fine then. There's a guy on here that sells freshly cleaned and flowed injectors for $120 shipped, I got mine through him and they've worked great. You need a resistor box - any accord at the junkyard should have one.

For your power goals, an Ebay cast manifold would work just fine. However if you want the bling then by all means go for the fancier ones. I would get a Tial wastegate if I were you, I'm using a $25 ebay special and it's held up but these are hit and miss.

Like Grumblemarc said, now's the time to start reading build thread after build thread and see what people run before buying anything.

 

Thank you and Grumblemarc for the informative information!

 

This is the link to the single cam boost thread.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/sohc-boosted-set-ups-chime-place-single-slams-1643764/

 

Subscribed. I definitely want to see where this goes.

 

Is the catch can neccesary?

 

Venting should strongly be considered. Even at a mere 6 PSI on a Greddy 15g I was getting oil forced through the PCV valve. It has been said that it isn't needed for low boost applications but I would beg to differ on the side of caution.

I recently installed a modified oil cap that has a breather element in it and it's made a hell of a difference.

 

pretty sure the piston slapping days are over. because back then they had suzuki spec pistons which were a hair smaller in size then the honda spec. now they have true d16 vitaras just have to make sure you get them. and they are supposedly teflon coated, id assume that would wear out pretty quickly though. ive seen many 75mm vitara build with no slap that ran great. also have to run the piston arrow towards flywheel i beileve

but the best thing to do is 75.5

 

Is there a place that sells these catchcans and sorts for D16? I'm looking to create one but dont even know where to start.

 

acl is still around... they run tighter, so you will have to get the crank micro polished. King bearings work too but you still have to get the crank micro polished. Run FJ rods so you ended up with like 8.5 compression.. eagle, manley, and other rod companys will only give you something like 7.5 compression (yes it makes a diffrence). If you can pick up a set of 1000cc injectors. You can get away with 75.5 but if you go to 82 mm you need to get the bock sleeved. Go with a Delta regrind heard bad things about the zex cams having alot of issues.

I made 440 on stock block and vitaras, eagle rods, 1000cc injectors, hx35 and cast manifold

 

ACL still around? I keep hearing stories where people are ordering ACL bearings (usually in a kit) and are getting King bearing instead. Abut how there seems to be some problems contacting them and even placing and new orders.

 

nothing wrong with king bearings. all you noobs think because they say race they must give me more power

 

Where did anyone say there was something wrong with King bearings? I know I didn't. I love how reading comprehension is still taught in schools.