This is a video I made instead of doing a writeup on how to perform a cylinder leak test. I had to do it to mine anyway so I figured I would make a how to.

Sidenote: The proper way is with a guage and shut-off valve, and watch the needle to see if the cylinder is losing pressure. The way I did it is for listening for leaks

I know my wheel is ghetto, the one was like this when I bought them, he sprayed it with paint stripper. I got them for real cheap though so I can't complain lol I'm getting them powder coated white or gunmetal soon. I have a friend that powdercoats for cheap.

Listen to how bad my valves were leaking...

http://youtu.be/6si_O6GAB9o

 

Thanks for the vid!
I'm pretty sure if you jack the car up and turn the wheel all the way to the left you can access the crank pulley bolt without taking the wheel off.

 

Yea probably, but I'm not sure how it is on all cars so I did that just in case other cars have to have the wheel removed to access it. Thanks for the feedback though!

 

I'm not too familiar with leak down tests... What are you looking for in the video when you attach the air to the cylinder and you are opening the throttle body?

Sorry, I just usually just do a Compression test with a gauge and cranking.

 

If you get low compression numbers, you can find out what is leaking by performing a leak down test.
You supply air pressure to the cylinder and listen to the leak.
If it's leaking out through the throttle body - intake valves not sealing,
Exhaust pipe - exhaust valves not sealing,
Oil dipstick or water reservoir - head gasket leaking.

 

Gotcha.. makes sense.. Good to know!

 

^^ yup exactly. Sorry I should have posted th video of my compression test, really low numbers, so from there I did the leak test.

 

Your missing a few parts in that vid.. Im pretty sure your suppose to turn each piston to TDC on the compression stroke. your also suppose to use a guage to tell what the leakage is.

 

Maybe try reading...

original post.
And If you paid attention to the video you would realize I did put the first cylinder at TDC compression, I didn't bother showin me put the 2nd cylinder at TDC since I already showed how to. And the guage doesn't tell you what the leak is, it just shows you how much it leaks, my compression was so low that I didn't need a guage for the leak, I just had to listen.

 

people are less likly to read something if there is a video.. this wouldnt be a how to more of how I did it. If your going to do a how to you need to put every step into the entire thread, step by step. AKA your missing a few steps!

 

Once again


What's the difference between a how to "write-up" with PICTURES, and a how to where I speak with video to go along. I think a video is alot more helpful than pictures with writing.

 

nice job!

 

Thanks man!

 

how low were your numbers? i have to do this on my 01 gsr with jdm b18c cause i have a bad misfire and cyl 3 has 0 compression.
hope it all works out for ya

 

My numbers in those two cylinders were 30 and 25. I just bought a complete gsr head, and I'm doing valves/springs/retainers, so hopefully it works out when I'm done lol.

And I would say with 0 psi you have 1 or more valves stuck open, not just leaking.

 

yea im thinking that too. do you think it could be adjustment? i found a complete gsr head for 300 im thinking about jumping on.
I would really love to keep the motor together tho but i guess we will see

 

Check your valve lash before you do decide to take it apart. If it is a completely assembled head then that is a good price. That's how much I got mine for, and it came with the intake manifold/throttle body, valve cover, and ARP's all for 300. No way I could pass that up lol

And if you know what you are doing, or have taken the head off before, it takes about 2 hours max. It took me about 45 minutes because I have done several heads. Remember, DO NOT re-use head bolts.

 

yeah im gonna do that. its complete with cams vc and dizzy not sure about mani. i also got my eyes on a complete swap for 1300 and put this motor on stand for rebuild/backup

 

Buy the head, get arp head studs for a gsr, gsr water pump/timing belt, golden eagle ls/vtec kit, and if you feel like it, just to be safe, type r oil pump. You will need a vtec ecu too, I think it was golden eagle that sells ecu harness adapters so you don't have to change the entire harness. Luckily da integras, you can use the stock ecu and use the shift light engagement to engage the vtec solenoid.

 

Once again you do not have all the steps or how to do it correctly so once again this isnt a how to... just a "what I did"... Your going to be showing people incorrect ways to do this...

 

And so you know type r and gsr pumps are the same pre 96, after 96 all oil pumps are pretty much the same... You would use a jumper harness but you have to wire up vtec... Using a shift light is a very hack, ricer way to put in vtec just let the ecu take care of it...

 

I have a gsr bub therefore vtec is all wired and my ecu is already vtec. im gonna check the lash tommorow and pray maybe i can keep this head on if not ill either put the money tward a valve job or just rock that gsr head. im kinda leanen tward buyin this swap tho its got low miles and after i fix the swap thats comin out i could drop it in my 98 hatch. gsr cx hatch could be cool

 

Please explain to me what steps I missed? In the video I EXPLAIN HOW TO perform the test, so how is this not a how to? If you don't like it stop posting in my thread, or make a better how to, please.

And the wiring the vtec solenoid to the shift light is how the ls/vtec how to/faq page explains it.

 

How many miles are on the car? If it's not bad then just replace the head with the gsr head you are talking about, don't bother doing the whole swap if it's only the valves that are bad.

 

the car has 140k but the motor is from tiger direct its a jdm b18c so im gonna assume it has low miles. im pretty sure its exhaust valves cause wen it runs i hear air comen out the exhaust side(ik that sounds weird but i can hear it) the only reason i want to go with the swap is cause its clean and ready to drop in and run. Also when i fix the head on my motor ill have an extra b18c swap and i have a 98 civic hatch with the 8 valve sohc motor that weighs like nothing