I had finally got done with my boosted b16 setup. It's a b16a2 with gsr cams, p30 pistons with a sc34 pushing 14 lbs. I made 325 to the wheels.

Yesterday I took the car out for a joy ride and my dumb *** is so used to driving all motor cars that i beat the **** out of the poor little thing, and mis shifted 3rd. The tachometer went ham, the needle did circles around.

After that it started acting funny kinda, or maybe I was just too paranoid. So the next day(today) I checked compression.
Cyl 1: 190
Cyl 2: 200
Cyl 3: 80
Cyl 4: 150, wet checked it: 185

I think on number 3 something has to do with the valves. Any comments gladly appreciated.

Any assumptions ? Or will compression change because the car is boosted ? This is my

 

Do a leakdown test, It will tell you for sure.

 

exactly how do you perform leakdown tests ? i heard they are similar to compression checks.

 

you bent a valve..easy...they sell leakdown tester its like the compression test but holds airpressure inside with a compressor...then u can check where the air is leaking from ...youtube it...

 

Just posted this under tech/misc.
It's my "how to" video on leak down test, for people that don't have the proper guage/shutoff-valve leakdown tester
https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/how-cylinder-leak-test-2993504/

 

Yeah, check you valves

 

I knew the valves are shot. Okay now that I got the head off, i didn't even bother checking a leakdown test so i went straight to the point. I took the head off and now that I am looking at it, is there a way to perform a leakdown test while the head is off ?

I know you can pour like gasoline while sitting the head on the intake or exhaust and coming back the next day to see which valve its leaking from ? I seen my uncle do it once, but I am not familiar on how to do it. Any comments please appreciated ..

I really wanna get my little b16 running again guys. Please help a fellow honda tech member out.

 

That's a crappy way to do it. The way you want to do it, fill the combustion chambers with gasoline, and find a way to seal the ports with a little hole to blow compressed air in, then look for bubbles coming from the vavles. A lot quicker and you actually know which valve exactly and which part of the valve seat.

 

Your best bet is to send the head out to a machine shop, they will do the leak test in a tank, and do the valve job. You are going to need a valve job anyway, lapping them yourself won't cut it.

 

if you pour gas or any thin liquid, in the CC, just look in the ports to find wich one is wet.

 

I'm telling you, don't do it that way. It takes longer, and you can't forget that there are 2 valves per port so you don't know exactly which on is at fault, and which part of the seat exactly is bad. The bubble test will show you EXACTLY where the leak is.

 

Is it possible to seal the ports with like duct tape or something ? or gorilla tape ?

 

It should hold just enough of a seal to hold enough pressure. Give it a try.

 

im about to take my piston rings out to check if they are fine since i over-rev'd the hell out of the motor. is it alright for me to use the same rod bearings, i have acl rod bearing that are perfectly matched up with plasti gauge last time i rebuilt the motor.

 

As for the over-revving, the bearings would be affected more than the rings, but as I stated in the pm, as long as they look fine and don't have any scores deep enough for your fingernail to catch on, then they are fine.