I have a 00 SH I bought back in 2000. Needless to say I am very attached to the car because I am the original and only owner. The car has 137k on it and up until recently has been a beast for the 10+ years I've had her. Earlier on this site I had posted about a possible harmonic balancer due to seeing my crank shaft pulley wheel and oil leak from crank seal. So I send the car in 3 weeks ago for the oil leak and wobble in crank pulley wheel. They replace crank seal, pulley wheel and new valve cover gasket for $800, I get the car back happy. About a little over a week later I hear I start hearing a popcorn popping like sound coming from under hood , it sounded as if it was coming from valves. What was strange about is there were no shutters, hesitation or any signs of a compression problem whatsoever in engine performance at all. I bring the car back to the mechanic on Tuesday the 18th , he takes a look at it as says its not from any of the work they did and asked me if would give them permission to take it apart . Monday the 24 th I get a call from the mechanic that the car stopped working and that they believe the crank is bent and/or the crank bearings are toast. He tells me that it is not worth it to rebuild the crank, that for the same money I should get another engine . He tells me he can get another h22a engine with 75k miles on it do the work and everything for about 3000 + tax and that that's with a discount taking into account they just did the recent work on it. Sorry for wall of text.
I want alive as to what I should do, is it possible to just purchase a new crank assembly, rather than rebuild the old one? The mechanic did seem to sure it is definitely a bent crank. Is the any way of testing the crank at all?

 

The longblock itself is only worth around $800

 

Isn't there something weird about the SH with the ATTS? Like there needs to be mounting points for the ATTS system on the block, or is that just the tranny?

 

Yea it is a different block.

 

Well sir, I have a 93 si (h23) and the same thing happened to mine, the garage told me that h series motor are known for crank issues, and i was looking about 3k to have them it in, So I pulled the h23 and bought a used h22 and I am putting it in now, from what i understand, it's a common problem. I did a search on CL and found alot of Ludes for sales with the same issues going on..... hope that helps. If i where you, i would do the swap your self, but thats just me. I am in about 700 bucks so far, so pretty good....

 

Time to find a shop that actually knows H motors. Next they'll tell you to run forged pistons.

 

Yeah I didn't take everything they said to be true, but my engine, did have a broke crank.... I have always heard H motors were pretty good....

 

For 3K you could just buy another prelude!!! For 1500 just swap in a base model H22 and trans and have money to put in a wave track lsd and still be less and have a true lsd that actually works 100% of the time. Atts is known for having tons of problems... Just sell off your old motor to someone who can rebuild it.

 

I am somewhat of a noob when it comes to the terminology what exactly is a long block ? do I not need to get the whole engine ? if I go with a jdm type s does right hand driver become an issue ? Whether I go with a usdm type sh or jdm type s swap will I have to get new ecu as well? Will they both include include the atts?

 

Long block means no transmission and that the engine itself comes with only the head, intake & exhaust mani, distributor, and all the sensors there may be.

Then there's the term short block as well which means that it isn't gonna be much; just the head and bottomend block. Thats about it.

 

so if the crank is truly bent, a new long block be what I need to get? and if I get JDM type s wouldn't I need to get the whole thing?

 

arnt type s trans base with an actual lsd? so a type s block would be a base block with the better head

 

Usually short block refers to an assembled bottom end of the engine (this includes the block itself, crankshaft, pistons and rods all together). A long block is the assembled bottom end with a head and the valve train included. If your head is in good shape then you could possibly find a short block (bottom end) by itself and swap it out with yours, making use of your old head. Every once in a while you will see a short block go on a local classified ad. I bought a used short block locally when my bottom end developed a knock and swapped them out. The used short block cost me 180 dollars, with gaskets and miscellaneous things to finish up the project I may have spent 500 bucks on it. Good luck with it

 

What we seem to be missing here is that this is an SH, which means that he's going to have to lose the ATTS to use a base block.

You still need to find an SH short/long block or dump the ATTS.

 

Alright, good news I guess. I do not seem to have a trashed crank, I took the car to another mechanic who works on honda's alot and has rebuilt the engines of a civic and accord that he personally owns and he determined that there was a bolt on the timing belt tensioner that snapped somehow and the prior mechanic left it in there broekn. The noise was my timing belt being eaten up slowly until it finall jumped tooth at mechanics. So new mechanic "Vega" basicly did a timing job on my car to get it running again to inspect the crank and "walla" nomore crank wobble , however now I am getting misfires codes on 1 and 3 and engine light blinks once it warms up and idles even after new plug wires and plugs. The wierd thing is driving it the engine light does not blink, just at idle and it seems to have a rough idle.

 

Yeah that other shop just wanted your money. They would have figured it out but they wouldnt have told you and just charged the fulll 3000.

The misfire codes are kinda weird. What does your new mechanic have to say about it.

 

He's keeping it another day to investigate the distributor cap and rotar. I am wonndering what else could be causing 1 and 3 to misfire on idle. I mean could it be a valve? a ring? EGR ports perhaps? I am at a loss.

 

Could be egr valve My car did something like that it's like a 240 dollar part so I would make sure first My threw a code misfire in number two cylinder. Did full tune up changed around fuel injectors checked valve clearance Then took to mechanic and after all that time and money for tune up. It was egr