ok so i just got an 01 type r front integra that was just ls and i wanted vtec.... so i did the ls vtec swap. but the car is a sluggish as a d series non vtec. As i got everything together i switched my ecu to a p2p or 99-00 si ecu. My buuddy is huge into hondas in fact he works at a local honda dealer and he was the oone who did the head swap for me. He told me that it is throwing a knock sencor and that it throwing the car 10 % timeing which is what is causing the car to run so slow. and he also mentioned something about the ecu not being the right one??? anyway the car has a built bottom and (low compression for boost, eagle rods, not sure what brand pistons, block gard, arp studs, and it is gsr head not b16) im not sure where the problam is and what i can do to fix it so please help and dont be a dick about it cause im not a geniuse about this kind of stuff

 

You can start by getting the right ecu and getting it tuned

 

just put in a p28.... its still sluggish as hell and it cuts in and out. You can have the petal completely down and it will bogg out then it will all of a sudden hit and take off. (still not that fast though)

 

Wow - yes, I can see the knock sensor (it's on the GSR & R, not LS). So throwing a code will cause the ECU to go into safe/limp-home mode and that'll give you grief. Might want to find an old one from the bone yard and tape it somewhere (hook it up tho). I've seen folks tap the block to get it working - search around if you want to try to make it functional.

The low compression isn't helping you either if you're running N/A at the moment. Are you?

Also - check and make sure you've not inadvertently switched the TPS/MAP sensor connectors.

Mark

 

putting in a p28 doesnt mean anything if it's not tuned. even when tuned it'll still be sluggish because of the low compression ratio without boost.

 

to clear the k/s code find a bracket you can drill a hole into that will fit a knock sensor into it (anywhere, just needs to be grounded out) throw a bolt in the other side, and run a single wire to the ecu pinout (dunno which one it is off the bat) since the ks grounds to the engine block its only a single wire, u can also drill out the alternator bracket and put the bolt there, anywhere will work. clear all your codes and work from there, obd2 is really ****ed for vtec problems. n get the right ecu, dont run a single cam ecu on a dohc. get 160 bucks and get a obd1 ecu wit an obd2-1 jumper harness, u can also get them to delete ks off the ecu at that point, are you throwing ckp? (code 7 i think)

 

heres what im not undestanding..... this is the secound ls vtec car iv had and i ran a p28in the last one, im not forsure but i beleive the p28 doesnt have a knock sensor programed. And just because it built it shouldnt stall out when u give it the gas.... the p28 should run the car half way decent. One other thing i know is the it doesnt have that black box that sits behind the motor. I cant remember whats it called but could that be the problem?

sorry for being difficult im not really understanding whats going on.... maybe i should just switch the car to obd1

 

if the car stalls out when you gas it (from what im understanding) then that usually means the ecu is in limp, check to make sure all wiring is hooked up right, i just finished an lsvtec swap on my buddies teggy and with the car running an obd2 ecu, we threw knock sensor and that didnt effect anything for performance, however we had a gsr ecu.. make sure ur grounds are clean (eliminates problems) especially the ground that grounds the engine harness to the thermostat housing, pull it off and sand the contacts till theyre shiney metal, also check ur sparg plugs, if theyre fouled or burnt or anything, theyre gonna seriously effect performance. its really hard to say what will cause a car to be sluggish, so you have to work bit my bit eliminating possible causes. also is ur timing dead on? a tooth out can effect ur performance as well

 

and black box? are u talking about the evap canister? map sensor? purge solenoid? breather box (back of the block)? that bogging sounds a little liek timing now that i think of it, my b20 was out a tooth and it would studder like a subaru untill 3 grand then it would sound find

 

timming is dead nuts plugs are perfect but im not sure bout the grounds ill have to check them tommorow in the day light.... i really appreciat you helpin me out. I feel like all the other honda guys make u feel like a jackass haha

 

yeah i think its the evap canistor behind the block

 

evap canister doesnt do ****, its a breather box for ur gas tank but if its the one ATTACHED to the back of the engine, thats a crutual unit, ur engine NEEDS to breath in order for it not to blow up lol, and yea alot of the people on these forums come here to brag about their **** lol, i kno wat its like to get stuck durring a swap, so i try to do my part as much as i can on this forum seeing as how honda-tech allways has an answer of some sort for me lol. if u can get down to detail a little more about ur issue that would help, how low cr are the pistons you put in? and check to see if u didnt have ur map (wh-gr-yel/gr) and tps (yel/wh-red/blu-gr/wh) clips switched, and make sure u didnt switch the intake air temp (gr/wh-red/yel) with the iacv (blu/yel-yel-blk) wire, check to make sure ur dizzy wiring is clean if its been altered, i dont know how to word this but, if you tie two wires together (tape them of course) but never tape the taped sections together, allways tape on one end or another, the reason for this, if there is a peice of wire sticking out of the tape, when you tape that part tight, that wire can dig into another taped wire and create a short, or an power issue. (happens more often then ud think) make sure ur injectors are hooked up right, timing belt side to tranny wire colours go brown, red, blue, yellow, also search ur harness for any melted, cut, kinked, or unhooked wires. 9/10 times an electrical issue, check ur ecu wiring make sure its not a rats nest hopes thats a little help

 

and im not forsure but would the evap canistor cause it to not have enough vacum to open the butterfly valves

 

as far as i know the butterfly valves work off the intake manifold vaccuum, i herd something about an iab solenoid or sensor of some sort, i dunno anything about it tho, the lsvtec we did had a gsr head, and we hooked the butterfly valves straight to the IM, buddy wit the teggy isnt running an evap canister, tahts the first thing he took outa his car when he got it lmao, i dont run mine in my car either, i have a b20b, and it runs perfect

 

wats getting me now is that ive had this issue with a few builds ive done, and i cant put my finger on what we did to fix it... but i kno we fixed it a few times allready on b series

 

well im gunna check everything u said tommorow and ill let you know what im come up with

 

allright good luck

 

Does it start fine when is cold in the morning? I had same problem but mine was the timing and
And my wires from the ect sensor were touching but the ecu should not be the problem I got a p2p on mine and it runs fine and I have stage 2 Cams on it...