HELP....Fully Built B18C1 motor at psi #?
Ok, let me try to clarify this. I have an fresh 0 miles fully built gsr motor from top to bottom, everything aftermarket internals.. Head has been port and polish, im portmatch, 70mm bbk throttle body portmatch to im. Basically, almost the whole nine yards except sleeves. BTW, Crower stage 2 turbo cams too.
Everybody recommend breaking motor in first before slapping on turbo and from research i think ima do that to be on the safe side because of the sweat and tears put into this.
My questions is: my fuel pressure gauge read 95 psi all motor, i know that don't sound and look right but it idle fine at that number and doesn't die. I try lowering it to 45-80 psi and the motor will idle and die as if not enough fuel is going through. I know that number 90-95 psi doesn't look right. Please suggest any opinions you guys may have. I can really use the help. thanks
Everybody recommend breaking motor in first before slapping on turbo and from research i think ima do that to be on the safe side because of the sweat and tears put into this.
My questions is: my fuel pressure gauge read 95 psi all motor, i know that don't sound and look right but it idle fine at that number and doesn't die. I try lowering it to 45-80 psi and the motor will idle and die as if not enough fuel is going through. I know that number 90-95 psi doesn't look right. Please suggest any opinions you guys may have. I can really use the help. thanks
had the same problem wiht my new motor it just needs a tune i had my fuel pressure super high just to keep the car on and idle it just needs a tune
yeah, i kinda figure that too, but wanted to make sure. did you happen to break in your motor too or just straight turbo and dyno? glad to hear i wasn't the only one with this problem. thanks
ive had a BandM fail FAST. The only ones i like are the ones that are liquid filled.
Start it, let it warm up a couple times, check for leaks, change the oil, and tune it for power.
Start it, let it warm up a couple times, check for leaks, change the oil, and tune it for power.
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A great engine builder once told me, ''A properly built engine will break it-self in with-in the first 1/2 second it is started.'' Then he finished my bottom end assembly, I went home, slapped the head on, finished the turbo set up, started the car up with a NON-DETERGENT oil (helps seat the rings) rab it for 20 minutes, Then did an oil change and put it on the dyno. +600hp on a 0mile engine.
A great engine builder once told me, ''A properly built engine will break it-self in with-in the first 1/2 second it is started.'' Then he finished my bottom end assembly, I went home, slapped the head on, finished the turbo set up, started the car up with a NON-DETERGENT oil (helps seat the rings) rab it for 20 minutes, Then did an oil change and put it on the dyno. +600hp on a 0mile engine.
A great engine builder once told me, ''A properly built engine will break it-self in with-in the first 1/2 second it is started.'' Then he finished my bottom end assembly, I went home, slapped the head on, finished the turbo set up, started the car up with a NON-DETERGENT oil (helps seat the rings) rab it for 20 minutes, Then did an oil change and put it on the dyno. +600hp on a 0mile engine.
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