1993 Accord LX transmission issues
Hey, new member here, I have a 1993 Accord LX auto that is in almost perfect shape and has been meticulously maintained but the transmission is giving me intermittent problems for the past few weeks.
The problem only occurs when accelerating from a stop, or when shifting from reverse or neutral into drive.
Sometimes, maybe one out of 20 take offs, the transmission seems to not fully engage into gear and slips. If I give it gas it will crawl forward but with almost no power at all and if I feather the gas I can feel slight shudders as if it's trying to catch gear but can't. Also, especially when taking a turn from a stop, sometimes the car will shudder as it accelerates from a stop and struggle to be in gear.
The gear lights in the dash are not blinking, the trans-fluid looks fine and is at a good level, and I have already removed and cleaned the shift solenoids.
In all other scenarios the car preforms beautifully but this problem is making stop and go traffic stressful.
Any ideas?
The problem only occurs when accelerating from a stop, or when shifting from reverse or neutral into drive.
Sometimes, maybe one out of 20 take offs, the transmission seems to not fully engage into gear and slips. If I give it gas it will crawl forward but with almost no power at all and if I feather the gas I can feel slight shudders as if it's trying to catch gear but can't. Also, especially when taking a turn from a stop, sometimes the car will shudder as it accelerates from a stop and struggle to be in gear.
The gear lights in the dash are not blinking, the trans-fluid looks fine and is at a good level, and I have already removed and cleaned the shift solenoids.
In all other scenarios the car preforms beautifully but this problem is making stop and go traffic stressful.
Any ideas?
I unbolted the assembly from the transmission and while using a jumper open and closed them while spraying carb cleaner into the inlets.
I also checked the throttle to transmission cable which seems fine, the arm at the transmission moves equally to the connection at the throttle body.
I'm gonna take the TCM out and check it for burnt parts tonight.
This morning it was giving me some issues so I took it to a parking lot to try to observe the problem as best I could.
The problem only occurs during take off, the trans will have no pull and crawl forward between 1000-2300rpm then it will start to shudder from 2300-3000rpm then will shift up and drive normally.
The problem is apparent when taking off in 1, d3 and d4 but does not occur in 2.
Also, If I turn off the car while it is showing these symptoms it will have trouble starting back up, but after a few tries will start, run and drive normally and no longer display any symptoms.
I also checked the throttle to transmission cable which seems fine, the arm at the transmission moves equally to the connection at the throttle body.
I'm gonna take the TCM out and check it for burnt parts tonight.
This morning it was giving me some issues so I took it to a parking lot to try to observe the problem as best I could.
The problem only occurs during take off, the trans will have no pull and crawl forward between 1000-2300rpm then it will start to shudder from 2300-3000rpm then will shift up and drive normally.
The problem is apparent when taking off in 1, d3 and d4 but does not occur in 2.
Also, If I turn off the car while it is showing these symptoms it will have trouble starting back up, but after a few tries will start, run and drive normally and no longer display any symptoms.
So I took out the TCU and check it out, there are no burnt parts, but some parts are bent over oddly.
I took some pictures, could this be causing the problem?

1, knocked over parts

1.b closer

2. other bent junk
I took some pictures, could this be causing the problem?

1, knocked over parts

1.b closer

2. other bent junk
Did you disassemble the shift solenoids, clean the screens, and check the pintle valve for wear? In D1, D3, D4 the car will start in first gear. In D2 the car will start in second. It appears there is issue with first gear, why its acting up is unclear. The electronic components being bent over, that's common, as long as there are no cold solder issues, broken leads, or burnt components, the board is most likely fine.
The next step would be to verify correct line pressure.
Have you seen this link? http://techauto.awardspace.com/trans...roubleshooting
The next step would be to verify correct line pressure.
Have you seen this link? http://techauto.awardspace.com/trans...roubleshooting
No, I didn't disassemble the solenoids themselves, just did a basic cleaning.
I jumped the connector and it didn't flash any codes, I'll keep the jumper with me and check them again next time it gives me symptoms.
I jumped the connector and it didn't flash any codes, I'll keep the jumper with me and check them again next time it gives me symptoms.
Interesting (and I'm sure frustrating too Urajim). As Mike said D2 would and should be second gear only used for winter starts to avoid spinning the tires. When you say "no pull" do you mean as if it's in a higher gear, or engine reving but no clutch effect as if slipping clutch? From your description sounds like its not coming down to first gear on take off.
Check some of the transmission posts by member P Adams. The guy knows his stuff and if you search a bit will find the answer to your problem (if it's the not coming down to first gear issue that I believe it to be). The shuddering is a biproduct of being in the wrong gear at take off. The clutches are protesting.
Check some of the transmission posts by member P Adams. The guy knows his stuff and if you search a bit will find the answer to your problem (if it's the not coming down to first gear issue that I believe it to be). The shuddering is a biproduct of being in the wrong gear at take off. The clutches are protesting.
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Today I took the car to a reputable transmission shop where I live, they do free diagnostics and just so happened to have helped a friend of mine with a 1993 ex-r solve a trans issue (his was a bad TCU).
They gave me the bad news after testing it that the problem is almost certainly internal and mechanical and recommend that I take it to another very reputable Honda specific shop as they carry good used transmissions and guarantee parts/labour and will stick to low quotes even if work needs to be re-done.
Even still, I may just do the swap myself as I have access to a full garage/bay.
They gave me the bad news after testing it that the problem is almost certainly internal and mechanical and recommend that I take it to another very reputable Honda specific shop as they carry good used transmissions and guarantee parts/labour and will stick to low quotes even if work needs to be re-done.
Even still, I may just do the swap myself as I have access to a full garage/bay.
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anita33
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Feb 7, 2009 04:07 AM





