rev limiter chip
ok so the guy i bought my crx from put in a chip. saudered it to the ecu. the tach bounces and car sputters, he said it started doing the tack bounce when he put it in. but he never went to high in rpms for it to sputter. why put the chip in if you arent gonna even use the car for wat its put in for? the guy seems like an idiot, could this be my problem? ive redone all the tune up stuff and replaced the fuel filter, (which had wat looks like some doodoo in it and lots of it) could that have also gotten into my injectors and rail? and would some fuel system cleaner remove it?
Swap out with a non-chipped ECU and see what it does.
Also, if you plan to keep using that ECU, consider desoldering the chip he added and put in a socket. Get a new chip with a STOCK program for the engine you are running (unless it's heavily modded or boosted).
Buying a chip or basemap and trying to drive on it is a BAD idea. These chips are never created specifically for your car. Running a chip tuned for a different engine setup is never a good idea.
For performance gains, you really need to take it to a tuner and get a custom tune for your setup.
Also, if you plan to keep using that ECU, consider desoldering the chip he added and put in a socket. Get a new chip with a STOCK program for the engine you are running (unless it's heavily modded or boosted).
Buying a chip or basemap and trying to drive on it is a BAD idea. These chips are never created specifically for your car. Running a chip tuned for a different engine setup is never a good idea.
For performance gains, you really need to take it to a tuner and get a custom tune for your setup.
Can you post a pic of what he did inside the ECU?
Got to thinking and maybe (since he soldered the chip in) he didn't do everything else that is required to prep the ECU for chipping.
Got to thinking and maybe (since he soldered the chip in) he didn't do everything else that is required to prep the ECU for chipping.
the engine is N/A. i just got done driving be cause i did a few things that made it a little better, then all of a sudden the problem hit its climax. its sounded like my trueno when its head gasket blew. but theres no water in the oil. and it would bog for a second then if i hit the gas it would clear up for a second then return. i cant do the ecu right now, but can take a pic later. i know its in there cause he said it was a bitch to put in which makes me think that this guy just doesnt know wat hes doing. but i want it out. theres an 88 hf crx at the junkyard, will this ecu work on my si? i know it only revs to 5200. but atm i really dont care.
That depends if I remember correctly you have a d15 and I think those ecu are already pined for multipoint just not hooked into the wiring so you should be able to run it as long as its not messed up
Markyboy you have no idea what you're talking about. Si's came with a 1.6l (d16a6) stock. Every other model ccame with a 1.5l stock. The hf, si, ex sedan, and rt4wd wagons came wired mpfi from the factory. The rest came wired for dpfi which is two injectors. Yes, there are four sets of wires at the ecu. But two of them don't go to anything, or they're tied into the two injectors.
O/p, yes you can limp your car on the hf ecu, however it'll run lean and w oout the hf manifold you'll throw a ccode for egr since the si doesn't have it.
O/p, yes you can limp your car on the hf ecu, however it'll run lean and w oout the hf manifold you'll throw a ccode for egr since the si doesn't have it.
Soo much misinformation in this thread...
For starters - if you remove the J1 jumper it will run on whatever the stock ECU mapping is. (Assuming you are OBD-1.)
If you use a PM8 ECU you will destroy your engine in short time. Not only is it going to run leaner but the timing is a lot different. Although it does make me want to try it since I have PM6's and PM8's laying around haha...
I have never seen a tachometer bounce due to a chip. Well only if you count a 2-step I guess... regardless it sounds more like your ignition control module is going out (igniter).
For starters - if you remove the J1 jumper it will run on whatever the stock ECU mapping is. (Assuming you are OBD-1.)
If you use a PM8 ECU you will destroy your engine in short time. Not only is it going to run leaner but the timing is a lot different. Although it does make me want to try it since I have PM6's and PM8's laying around haha...
I have never seen a tachometer bounce due to a chip. Well only if you count a 2-step I guess... regardless it sounds more like your ignition control module is going out (igniter).
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You do realize the HF engine is only an 8 valve right? There is a lot more differences than just the manifold. Have you seen the port sizes for example?
even if the ecu is not the problem i would never run one that was chipped by a first timer it is so easy to burn up the board with poor soldering/overheating...if this happened it can cause all sorts of little problems or one big problem or in this case probably YOUR PROBLEM
No im his other thread he said it had a d15 and we keep questioning him about itbut hes set on calling it an si ao before you talk **** maybe you should read first, I said you meaning his car not everyone elses so... Yeah smart ***.
Yes guys, its definitly as SI. (I ran the vin). I definitly have a D15B7 under my hood. thats why im confused. the HF is also a D15, but instead of B7 its a B6. but im gonna change out the ICM first thing tomoro. If that does not fix the problem then im gonna swap the ecu. I just need to know if it will fit, or if its a bad idea?
D15B6Found in:
1988–1991 Honda Crx HF
Displacement : 1,493 cc (91.1 cu in)
Bore and Stroke : 75 × 84.5 mm (3.0 × 3.33 in)
Compression : 9.1:1
Power : 62-72 hp
['88-'89] 62 bhp (46.2 kW, 62.9 PS) at 4,400 rpm
['90-'91] 72 bhp (53.7 kW, 73.0 PS) at 4,500 rpm
Torque : 83 ft·lbf (11.5 kg/m, 113 Nm) at 2,200 rpm
Valvetrain : 8-Valve SOHC
Fuel Control : OBD-0 MPFI
Head Code : PM-8
^^^hf motor
D15B7Found in:
1998-2000 Honda City SX8
1992–1995 Honda Civic CX (Canadian model)
1992–1995 Honda Civic GLi (Australian model)
1992–1995 Honda Civic DX/LX
1993–1995 Honda Civic Del Sol S
1992–1995 Honda Civic LSi Coupe (European Market)
Displacement : 1,493 cc (91.1 cu in)
Bore and Stroke : 75 × 84.5 mm (3.0 × 3.33 in)
Compression : 9.2:1
Power : 102 hp (76.1 kW, 109 PS) at 5,900 rpm
Torque : 98 ft·lbf (13.5 kg/m, 133 Nm) at 5,000 rpm
Valvetrain : SOHC (4 valves per cylinder)
Cam Gear: 38 Tooth
Piston Code : PM3
Fuel Control : OBD-1 MPFI
ECU Code: P06
Head code: PM 9-6
Non Vtec
^^^92-95 civic dx motor
which is it?
1988–1991 Honda Crx HF
Displacement : 1,493 cc (91.1 cu in)
Bore and Stroke : 75 × 84.5 mm (3.0 × 3.33 in)
Compression : 9.1:1
Power : 62-72 hp
['88-'89] 62 bhp (46.2 kW, 62.9 PS) at 4,400 rpm
['90-'91] 72 bhp (53.7 kW, 73.0 PS) at 4,500 rpm
Torque : 83 ft·lbf (11.5 kg/m, 113 Nm) at 2,200 rpm
Valvetrain : 8-Valve SOHC
Fuel Control : OBD-0 MPFI
Head Code : PM-8
^^^hf motor
D15B7Found in:
1998-2000 Honda City SX8
1992–1995 Honda Civic CX (Canadian model)
1992–1995 Honda Civic GLi (Australian model)
1992–1995 Honda Civic DX/LX
1993–1995 Honda Civic Del Sol S
1992–1995 Honda Civic LSi Coupe (European Market)
Displacement : 1,493 cc (91.1 cu in)
Bore and Stroke : 75 × 84.5 mm (3.0 × 3.33 in)
Compression : 9.2:1
Power : 102 hp (76.1 kW, 109 PS) at 5,900 rpm
Torque : 98 ft·lbf (13.5 kg/m, 133 Nm) at 5,000 rpm
Valvetrain : SOHC (4 valves per cylinder)
Cam Gear: 38 Tooth
Piston Code : PM3
Fuel Control : OBD-1 MPFI
ECU Code: P06
Head code: PM 9-6
Non Vtec
^^^92-95 civic dx motor
which is it?
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