i want to get a good gas milage motor and make it better.

so lets talk about different Dseries motors and what has been done and what can be done a d motor to make it as efficiant as possible?

AND WHY THAT MOTOR?

 

What is your goal?

Your statement "efficiant as possible" is about as useless as me saying I want to fastest car as possible.

The HF motor is the motor restricted gutless wonder from these year Honda's.
There is also the gopher powered CX motor.

Other than the stock OEM options, how much do you want to spend to make your performance worsen so you can get those mad bananas MPGs???

 

In my findings, the way a person drives is one of the most impactful things on gas mileage. I can get 35mpg city by being easy on my d16 or I can get 27 city by hammering on it.

Aside from driving style (which is incredibly important), low rolling resistance tires can help. I bet you could tune these motors for better fuel efficiency if you really wanted to but it would do next to nothing unless it was driven properly.

Also- try going 55mph instead of 75mph on the highway. Make a big, noticeable difference. Personally, I have developed a method to coast through my town, making as few stops as possible by avoiding busy traffic lights, timing/predicting the other traffic lights in my head and riding my downhill coasts.

 

my goal is get the motor with the best mpg and do what i can to make it achive more mpg
and you dont get that by going faster. and i think efficiently as possible was simple enough to understand i think and i mainly spoke of motors in my post so motors is what this about fast as possible as you said would be a totally different thought process.

 

1.5 8 valve
1.5 v-tec e
1.3 16 valve
which one is best on fuel and why
which one can i get to get the best milage with upgrades
am i missing any
this is what this post is about

 

i like the idea of the vtec-e, but i think it's redundant....it's an eco motor with vtec, vtec was designed to get more power when you want it and mpg when you don't, whole idea of an eco engine is to be economical all the time..i dunno, just my thought, but i'd get a motor that was designed to be effecient and restrictive at all times - the hf, for the record though, my old motor on my 91 lx sedan was a d15b2 (pgmfi), and even with crappy winter tires on i got about 38 to the gallon with nothing more than a good quality tune up (royal purple lubes/bosch spark plugs/k&n oil filter) on stock plug wires and 87 octane, suppose if i went a few steps further it would've easily passed 40mpg...new wires, higher octane, and proper MATCHING! tires lol

 

Why are you making multiple threads on the same subject? I answered your question in your other thread. You haven't done much research or you would have easily found your answer. I would learn about tuning ECU's if you actually want good gas milage.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/best-fuel-2990630/ please keep it in one thread. Also this is very subjective as everyone drives differently.

 

i still feel high MPG can be made (and easier) with a more powerful engine... the trick is the way you drive it.. smaller low power engines need to work harder(use more fuel) to get your car rolling and keep it rolling higher power engines make it easier to get the car rolling and keep it rolling (in some cases can use less fuel to do this) my stock SI got 40mpg (average) when i drove it like a grandma (shift at 3k rpm and cruise in 5th when i was rolling) but still made it easy to merge into traffic and pass on the highway... ive heard u can reach those 50+ mpgs but with how little power you will make.. you might as well get infinate mpgs and ride a bike...
even the top of the class fuel economy cars these days are only making 40 mpg.. unless you go hybrid or diesel.

 

If that is your goal, then the absolute - hands down - best engine to meet that goal is the ECA engine.- 67hp, 1.0 liter, 3 cylinder.

 

this is very true, depending...top gear did a segment where jeremy clarkson took a big beamer or benz and put it against a prius or something like that, goal was for the fuel efficient car to go full out and the big heavy 300+ hp luxury sedan just had to keep up, bottom line is the sedan got 30 something mpg and the efficient car got around 15 or something like that, it all makes very good sense, but an efficient running motor will make a bigger impact on those grounds than a high hp motor....200 hp from small things like lubes/plugs/wires/i,h,e/higher octane/ecu tune would theoretically be better for fuel consumption than the same 200 hp coming from forced induction or built motor. also, a good electrical/ignition system and hyper voltage grounding kits seem to make a pretty good impact on engine efficiency, along with a good battery (i like optima)....in a nut shell...how easily everything flows with as little resistance as possible is IMO the best way to go about getting mad mpg's. not saying other things won't help, but stuff like i mentioned will give you an amazing base to work with, and make some useable efficient power.

 

the 1.3 is going to give you the best gas mileage, so that would be your best bet.
the only upgrades i would do are:

low rolling resistance tires
nitrogen inflated
K&N drop in filter

aside from tune ups and oil changes, any other upgrades will not be cost-effective for MPG. as stated, your driving habits will be the biggest factor.

 

"cost-effective" is subjective...things like good batteries/grounding systems might not make a huge difference, along with even things as simple as high quality coolant/additives(purple ice does make a small difference). though the changes might be subtle, it also adds to reliability and longevity, every little bit helps, yes your right foot is the best gas saver in the world! but, you mentioned cost effective and nitrogen low resistance tires in the same post, not really cost effective, the wheels they are mounted to will play a bigger role through rotating mass...i.e. a much lighter alloy wheel will probably net bigger mpg savings than nitro filled tires, though usually isn't cost effective either to most, $800 wheels and tires vs 1-2 mpg...eh....and also...there's really not that many different tires to fit the stock 13" wheels, only 1 tire in my area, so as far as low resistance nitro filled tires...it's even less cost effective because you'll probably need new wheels anyways.

 

In addition to the motor selection and the way you drive, there are a few other key things you can do that I found a few years back on another forum that was dedicated to MPG Monsters. I don't remember the theory behind it, but I saw a bunch of those guys completely blocking off all openings in the front bumper and grill. Not sure if this was for aerodynamics or to make the engine run slightly hotter.

In any event, look for one of the forums dedicated to high gas mileage, they will have the most abundant info for your needs.

 

it's for aero, reduces drag in the engine compartment and against the firewall, cutting vents in the back bumper and wheel arches reduces drag as well, anytime you reduce drag you increase how easily the car "cuts" through the air, taping all gaps(doors,trunk,hood,etc) will reduce drag as well, but the idea is that you need less gas(power) to cut through the air if there's less drag on the car to keep it held back...they make metal vents to put on back bumpers specifically to reduce drag, since the back bumper is the end-point of the car, there is effectively a lot of pressure building up against it, thus vented back bumpers really make a difference over other high pressure spots. I've seen a eclipse gsx that went as far as custom front bumper with only a turbo intake hole, no grill and such, with aluminum sheeting all underneath and virtually no back bumper(cut to flush @ support)...he claimed he gained several mph in the 1/4 et from doing so, not that mpg has to do with 1/4 mile et's but the theory is pretty sound...if there's no air getting in the car except what's going into the engine, then tons of drag is eliminated and it's not holding you back...other than the drag on the windshield and what does hit the front end..

 

Actually, it's not. If you look at MPG savings as the OP was asking, the things like upgraded grounds are useless. The car come with a perfectly good battery and electrical system. I've never priced the LRR tires, but I would assume they save money over the life of the tire. Nitrogen is cheap where I am, and the idea is you fill them once and done. Temperature changes, especially this time of year, can decrease the PSI and reduce MPG. It's one less thing to look at all the time. I find it hard to believe there's only 1 tire in your area that fits 13's, but this thread isn't about you. Even 14's can be found cheap and then tire options really open up. But skinny 13's will always give better MPG than their 14" counterpart.

 

i guess if i was doing a mpg build, i would want to be able to have a little fun with it.
i like the crz and how it has multiple "tunes" available at the push of a button. I would think this wouldn't be too hard with a chipped ecu or hondata.
so if you can make multiple tunes the 1.5 vtec-e would be best. you could have sport mode (full VTEC, 16v operation at all times, advanced tuning (someone has made 127hp with 35mpg)), or you could have eco mode (limited to 12v mode, no vtec, some lean fuel mapping, alternator kill switch, single headlight mode...)

but maybe i'm just a dreamer.

 

They make stackable EPROMs that you can switch between programs with a switch or selector... It's completely possible.

 

Yes you are a dreamer.
You can do on-the-fly 'hot' tunes (not needing to shut off the car or change chips) by using a Moates Ostrich.

Unfortunately, a proper tune sets the engine up for it's best performance. Running leaner will give less hp and, over time, worsen your MPG.
It's all about efficiency.
A stock car right from the dealer can benefit from a tune because it's a generic tune and conservatively set to run slightly rich. Rich is better than lean.

 

I hate to burst your bubble 4drEF but take a look...

http://www.moates.net/gx-switching-a....html?cPath=69

http://www.moates.net/ex-remote-swit....html?cPath=69

Having multiple tunes is easily achievable and switching between them the same like I said before. Also - rethink your theory on running lean.