I have some bad LCA bushings on my EG sedan a few months after I replaced the UBJ. I was wondering if a new LCA comes with all the bushings. So when I fix it, would it be more efficient to just get a whole new LCA or to go ahead and just get the bushings?

 

Aftermarket or stock? If you have access to a press just get the bushings. If not replace the whole arm.

 

Stock and I do have access to a press. What all can be pressed out and replaced on the assembly? So far I am pretty sure there are 2 bushings that attach on the subframe, one where the strut arm attaches, and a balljoint..Does that sounds correct?

 

Are we talking about the same part? An LCA has 3 bushings. No balljpoint.

If we're talking about the UCA

then I heard it's better to just replace the whole thing.

 

I'm sorry, I forgot to specify it is on the front end.

 

Oh! Same difference. The balljoints separate rather easily.

 

The part in red is what I'm talkin about.

 

It's usually cheaper to replace LCA bushings on a control arm with two bushings. Especially if you have access to a press. Rear LCAs have 3 bushings, so yes it's cheaper to buy the whole arm. Especially if you have to pay someone to press them.

If you alignment issues (uneven caster, or camber), then maybe buying new LCAs is a better idea. Just keep in mind that uneven camber L to R could also be from the subrame being shifted to one side. An alignment shop can adjust the subframe to even out camber, but can't do anything for caster.

If your sure the arms are straight, then replacing bushings is better IMO.

 

I want to also make sure that I have this problem diagnosed properly. I am 99% sure but the 1% is enough to spoil the 99.

It is like this: I hear a creaking clunk noise as I am turning but only when the weight shifts to that side. It doesn't sound like brakes, grinding metal, or anything like that The CV shaft is good on that side, new tie-rods inner and outer with a new steering rack. Upper ball joint was replaced recently (late summer) but the lower wasn't. I get a slight pull from that side. I took the wheel off and got in there with a flashlight and a small prybar. I wiggled and pried around the UCA and UBJ to confirm that there wasn't any play from the repair, it seemed pretty tight and secure so I worked my way down and noticed where the LCA attaches to the subframe there was some sagging where the bushing meets metal and more play than what would seem acceptable.

 

Any play is the source of "a" problem. If the arm shifts too much under load, the cast steel can make contact with the subframe surrounding it. This can be the source of your noise. Definitely replace the bad bushing you've identified, and do both sides (all 4). The arm itself won't cause clunking unless it's really bent, so you kinda stand nothing extra to gain by replacing the whole arm.

BTW: When you remove your lower arms to have the work done, compare them very closely by lining them up side by side. You may be surprised what you find...