shop says that its reading properly until it starts overheating and doesn't go up further then normal on the gauge is that possible if its working?....and that it wouldn't turn on my fans and thus ended up frying my piston rings?

 

The temp gauge does not turn on the fans, the fan switch does.

When you reach a little over half way up the fan should come on.

If your car is like a civic, look at the thermostat housing there should be a plug on top, pull it off, take a paperclip and bend it like a "U" put one side of the connector in each hole, go turn of the car to the number 2 position and see if the fan comes on.

 

shop said they tested the power to the fans and that they were working...but what he's also saying is that the temp gauge is WORKING but that it stays at the normal spot (just before halfway) but it overheats and stays at the normal spot instead of indicating that it is overheating.

 

If your temp gauge was broken, It wouldn't indicate accurate temperatures up until the middle and then stop.... Sounds like bullshit to me.

 

i completely agree just wanted to get the facts straight before i burn em on telling em....they been giving attitude cuz they messed up an the bar made em fix the problem for free...and how about the fan issue?

 

What did they mess up?

The test I wrote above you can do on your own, sure simple, just do it and report back.

Also, when the gauge gets a little past 1/2 way can you hear the fan come on?

 

well thats what he's saying...they stay at operating temperature and don't move past that... they messed up on my engine rebuild by not doing the piston rings that comes in a rebuild. he said fan turns on when he powers it on manually

 

bump

 

there are two temperature sensors. the one for the gauge is separate from the one that the ecu reads. if he can jump the fans and they work, obviously there's something wrong with the fan switch or its associated wiring.

 

ok so besides the fact that he's taken 2 days to figure out can i just pull the car out of the shop and fix it myself then?

 

As mentioned there is an ECT switch, used to turn rad fan on when engine temp. hits 190-200 degrees F, [just above normal operating temp.] there is also an ECT sensor, it connects to the ECU/ECM and the temperature gauge, it tells the ECU/ECM engine temp. so it can adjust A/F ratio it also controls the temp gauge.

I would guess the problem is the gauge, but it could also be the ECT sensor or wiring.

However if the rad fan is not turning on and the jumper test on the ECT switch does turn the rad fan on, then you need to replace the ECT switch, the temp gauge reading is a separate issue and has nothing to do with keeping Engine Coolant Temperature at operating level, that is done by the thermostat and the rad fan.

As kyden suggests, unplug the ECT switch and jump the plug with something like a paper clip, [ign. switch must be on or engine running].

Also, what is the MM&Y of your car? 94

 

acura integra gsr 2001

 

Have you tried the suggested test?

 

i cant try the suggested test until i get my car out of the shop, if i pull my car out of the shop they do not assume any more responsiblity or have to finish any other work thats supposed to be done to it. i was simply asking to see if they were bullshitting me and lagging on getting it fixed.

 

Sorry, my mistake, there is the ECT switch, 2 wire, [for the rad fan] the ECT sending unit, one wire, [for the gauge] and the ECT sensor, 2 wire, [for the ECU/ECM].

The 2 wire ECT switch, most likely green and a black control the rad fan relay, [supplies it with a ground at 190-200 degrees F, thew relay supplies the rad fan with 12V+.
Should be located at the thermostat housing;

The one wire ECT gauge sending unit, most likely a yellow/green, supplies the temp. gauge with a variable ground, [thermistor] as engine temp. goes up "more" ground is supplied to the gauge.
Should be located below distributor assembly.

The 2 wire ECT sensor, most likely red/white and a green/blue with both leads going to the ECU/ECM also a thermistor using referance voltage.

The ECT switch is easly tested by jumping the two leads, [rad fan should turn on].

The ECT gauge sending unit is a little harder to test but testing the gauge is easy, connect up a 12V test light and touch the probe to the single wire, gauge should read about half way, ground the single lead and the gauge should read all the way to the top, the above should be done with two people, one watching the gauge the other grounding the lead, the one watching the gauge can yell out when gauge gets close to the "top", you do not want it hitting it's stop.

The shop may or may not be bullshitting you, the temp. gauge could work fine untill half way and not work past that point, the sending unit may only work to half way and not past that point, however it should not have taken them 2 days to figure out what the problem is, it is also kind of coinsedental that after a rebuild, [that you say the messed up on] the temp. gauge would stop working properly and so would the rad fan, [rad fan relay or ECT switch] it also should not have taken 2 days to figure out exactly what was wrong there.

It does sound to me like they Fed up and are now trying to was there hands of the job.

What exactly do they still have to do on the car?

You can always tell them to get their **** together or you are going to take it to another shop to see what the Fed up. 94

 

i've told em millions of times. they keep telling me "sure take it but we don't accept any responsibilty after you take it". Supposebly there done but "won't" let me take it until they can figure out why its doing ^^^ but its been 5 days now, they've had it in the shop over 3 months not including the time it took to do the rebuild and other various work. i'm thinking of taking em to small claims court (sueing em)?

 

ttt

 

Leaving it with them is not getting you anything anyway, so what would you be loosing by taking it, have it towed or flat-decked from their shop so they can't use you driving it with a "problem" as an excuse to, "accept any responsibilty".

Take it to another shop or home and have the testing done or do them yourself to determine the problem, it should not be taking them this long to find what the problems are, and yes, all the problems you discribe are problems you can test and fix yourself. 94

 

where in cali are you located? If your located in Central or Northern Cali I can suggest a very good mechanic to fix it. He's been fixing cars on these boards for 8-9 years.

 

the thing is if i take it before they say they are done with it, its like a waiver. but i'm looking into it. as it has been ridiculously long overall.

i'm located in the 805 area had it done at a shop in santa maria (shoulda went to la but didn't wanna take the drive, now i regret it) by the way, the shop is call FASTLANE AUTOSPORTS do not ever take it there!

 

ok so here's the new excuse or real deal with my car... supposebly it is burning coolant. no leaks. oem radiator cap. oem hoses. as far as the guy told me no white smoke. it seems it is just burning coolant. gonna try to do a few things.

1. try different radiator cap as it might not be holding pressure

2. shop hasnt' told me if they checked oil to see if it was milky but pretty sure they would know that.

3. heard a method of leaving the pressure on the cooling system but while the car is off?
how do i do that?

 

The only way coolant will "burn" is if it leaks into the cylinders, [blown HG or cracked sleeve].

The shop should have a coolant system pressure gauge...

If not, they are not much of a shop. 94

 

wow this shop seems to be robbing your ***.....

'yeah ur losing coolant but we don't know where....'

Are you kidding me? Is there white smoke? No? Well then it must be leaking under the car somewhere, because its either going on the ground, or in the atmosphere. Plus, like FCM said, if you use that gauge, it will tell you..

 

i know man not much of a shop, we'll "find out" tommorow morning.

lets see what happens tommorow i'll update when i find out. really APPRECCIATE the help and positive efforts

 

What? first the double sided tape will melt in a matter of seconds on a exhaust manifold, 2nd merc thermomiters are illigal (at least in co). You would get a laser temp gun and measure each exhaust manifold and ther shouldnt be a diffrence of more then 10 to 20 percent.

Tell me your joking.. if your telling this in serious you need to stop telling people incorrect information