Hey guys I have a 98 integra that I just swapped an obdI ls into for the time being. I finished the swap today and went to start it but it never turned over. I hear pops from the muffler while trying to start it but it doesnt want to fully turn over. I know I have fuel because I hear the pump and can smell it. I just did the timing belt too. Any ideas of what the problem could be? I really want to get this thing running

 

Do you have spark?

Have you checked to make sure valve timing is correct, it is easy to be one tooth off. 94

 

I havent checked spark yet, how do I do that? Also, can I check the valve timing with the motor still in the car? I dont want to pull this thing again..

A little more info: the motor is obdI but I had them (hmotorsonline) put an obdII distributor on it and am running an obdII p75.

 

update: just checked spark with an extra spark plug and all 4 cylinders are getting spark. Im now thinking its a valve timing issue.. any suggestions on how to check/adjust that with the motor still in the car?

 

Make sure the distributor is on rite sometimes it could be pointing to cylinder #2 when it looks like #4 then that would cause the timing to jump. try putting motor to tdc and double check the gears to make sure its on point. then check distributor and distributor rotor and cap.

 

As mentioned, place cylinder #1 at TDC and check the marks on the cam gears, do they line up? 94

 

this is what my timing looks like, it doesnt look 100% on but ive adjusted it a took clockwise on the intake side and that makes it way off...



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

any ideas?

EDIT: timing is definitely spot on now, rotated it through a few cycles and its still lined up. I went to start it with the key and it was shaking as it was trying and more popping coming from the exhaust. Im kind of at a loss here.

 

been doing a lot of research, and im still stumped. I pulled off the fuel rail and gas spilled out so I know its getting fuel, spark has been verified, and timing is on..

one thing I found online was a faulty crank position sensor would cause it not to start? I bought a jdm b18b and it doesnt have a crank position sensor and I did the trick found here http://ff-squad.com/wp/?p=309 so I could run a usdm p75 ecu with it.

I really need to get this thing running guys I just cant figure it out, maybe somebody knows something I dont?

EDIT: maybe more info on the swap is needed:
obdI JDM b18b motor
obdII distributor
usdm intake manifold (for emissions reasons)
gsr injectors and fuel rail (from my old motor)
gsr throttle body
gsr engine harness (some plugs not used like knock sensor, vtec, etc)
obdIIa usdm p75 ecu

this is in a 98 integra gsr

 

anyone?

 

Bump

 

I'm still looking for an answer, someone has to have some idea..

 

Is your distributor on correctly?

 

i had the same problem, turned out to be a tuning problem. solved it all.

 

The rotor points to the bottom left if youre looking at it from the passenger side when the crank pulley has the white mark lined up with the pointer and the cams have the up in the 12 o'clock position so I think the distributor is on the right way.

can you elaborate on this tuning issue? Im running a stock motor with stock ecu so Im kind of confused as to how it could be a tuning problem.

 

im sorry i forgot about that it was a stock motor and ecu. the dizzy only fits in the cam one way i believe because of how it fits together. how are you measuring wether cylinder one is at tdc? i believe the cap fits on only one way too? i could be wrong because i havent had mine appart for a while

 

cylinder 1 is at tdc when the cam gears have the "up" in the 12 oclock postion (pointing straight up) and the crank pulley has the white hash mark lined up with the pointer on the timing cover right?

 

yeah, thats a good way to measure it but i use a different way to make sure nothing is off with your crank gear or cam gear. i put a long rod/ thing into the cylinder one and move the number one piston up and down and look at the rod and stop it when it reaches tdc. then you know its correct. just get it close with the way you do it and check it with the rod.

 

I did a little visual check with a flash light and it looked like 1 was close to the top of the cylinder, but 1 and 4 looked pretty close so I'll try with an extension in there.

 

things verified today:
-cylinder 1 tdc is correct, checked with an extension in the spark plug hole
-it isnt the distributor, I put in a known working unit from my previous engine and it still didnt fire
-Im still very pissed at this car!

is this even possible?

 

yeah its possible lol i went through the same things you did for about a month every night and its tough but worth it taking the time to figure it out and to get it fixed so nothing breaks

 

Im running out of ideas as to what it could be though! is it possible that my ecu could be bad? I figured if the fuel pump was priming then the main relay is fine and the ecu is also alright.

If the ecu is bad would it be possible to test if it starts with a GSR ecu?

 

Are you sure you have fuel, try starting engine, immediately remove spark plugs, are they "wet" with gas? 94

 

ok new update, just tried to start it and checked plug from cylinder one immediately after and it was bone dry. I know its getting fuel to the fuel rail, and these injectors were working in the previous motor. what does this mean?

 

did some reading really quick and found this interesting. I swapped in a jdm motor which doesnt have the crank position sensor. One thread I read said that the crank position sensor is what triggers the ecu to tell the injectors to fire. I knew that the jdm motors dont have the crank position sensor so I did the bypass trick found at http://ff-squad.com/wp/?p=309 to splice the ckf (crank position sensor) to the cyp (not sure what this is).
I used the quick splices like they do in the write up but Im not sure if I fully trust the connection provided by these.
Is it possible that the connection is not good and is therefore causing the injectors not to fire or am I mislead in thinking the ckf tells the injectors to fire?

 

Do you have 12V+ at the injectors, [lead that is the same color at all 4 injectors, probably a yellow/black], must have power when ign. switch is in run AND start positions?

If so then it is a problem with the ECU/ECM ground pulse to the injectors.

Confirm ECU/ECM has power at IPG1 and IPG2, should also be yellow/blacks and also with ign. switch in both run and start.

CYP= Cylinder Position sensor.
CKF= Crankshaft Fluctuation sensor, also called knock sensor I think.

CYP, TDC and CKP are in the distributor, CKF is mounted to oil pump, [USDM OBD2 engines].

So question is, was CKF bypass done properly...
http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/ckftrick.htm

Also, "quick connects" are not an acceptable connection unless you are doing a temporary trailer plug hook up, and not really even then, solder and shrink tubing is the way to go, even solder and Electrical tape or liquid electrical tape will work, and yes, it is possible that the "quick connects" are the problem. 94