Okay, so I changed my spark plugs, spark plug wires, cap, and rotor four days ago using OEM cap and rotor and NGK plugs/wires.

Yesterday I was driving at about 25MPH and my car decided to shut off, but did not loose battery power. Upon trying to retsart it, it just cranks, and will not turn over.

I replaced the distrubuter with a brand new one and the problem still consists. When I disconnect the spak plug wires from the dizzy and begin to start it, it cranks and sounds the same as if they were connected, which makes me want to believe that the problem isn't in the ignition or the dizzy.

I do have a fuel cut off switch but it isn't set (obviously) when i'm trying to start the car.

The motor has high mileage and burns oil, but has never had a problem when it comes to starting and running properly. I'm trying to figure out why after i change the above parts, the car decides to die.

Based on the information proivided above I'm hoping that someone can lead me in the right direction toward resolving this issue. Thanks for the input guys.

 

Could the wires from your cutoff switch magically remove themselves from the switch itself? (back up a step... does your fuel pump kick on?)

My cheap **** Distributor King dizzy (with less than 300 miles) cut off my car. It started back up to drive home. Started the car at another date (since car is being stored) and it would not start. Replaced it with a used OEM dizzy and runs great.

 

Did you check the ecu fuse? or crack the nut on the fuel rail and slight crank to check for fuel? maybe swap the ecu it self if you know anyone with one ? also the internals within the tempermental b series distrubtor (coil,ignitor) maybe no good ? just a few ideas good look bro.

 

Fuel pump kicks on and I bought a new dizzy. I haven't checked any fuses but i probably should. I'm sure i can use any obd2 b series ecu and see if it starts with that (although it'll run like crap).

 

Have you checked you Timing Belt?

 

I just had a spark issue with my b18cr. It started as an occasional bogging problem until one day /\_/\_/\______. First things first, the signs of life, fire, fuel, and air. Air easy to rule out, so I went straight to the plugs, Took them out and cranked it over, no spark at the plugs. Then took out a second plug and it's wet, so ruled out fuel( plus theres a fuel psi gauge which is nice)and started replacing distributor parts. One by one( cap, rotor, coil, ignitor, main relay) I put a new part in and tried to start it. Nothing. So took all parts back and bought a low mileage distributor...BINGO. I'm thinking it was crank sensor signal to the ignitor. Plus I needed a new one cause there was red dust inside.

 

Yup. Timing belt snapped.

 

Shoot sorry man. I know the feeling all to well.

 

Damn.. well there you go. hopefully you didnt bend any valves . once again good luck

 

Thanks for the help guys. I'm going to PRAY i don't need a valve job now.

 

Anybody know how many hours it takes to replace a timing belt? I'm probably just going to have the car towed to a shop.

 

2 or 3 hours max. its really not a bad of a job as it sound like. the biggest pain in the *** of the job is the motor mount that the belt has to get passes

 

I'm gonna say you bent valves. I was idling both times my belt snapped and I still bent valves. Sense you said the belt snapped not just slipped. Throw a timing belt on and do a compression test. Look at your cam gears and see how off they are.

 

That just sucks

 

Damn, I really did not want to be right. But I have just learned some of the tale tell signs. You most likely bent some valves especially with repeat starting attempts. (Certain valves will still be open and the bottom end will crack from the starter). I would align everything with the timing install and do a leak down test. redoing valves in not a huge job but you don't any piston/head damage from the bent valves.

 

Well now that you bring that up, I don't know if the timing belt actually snapped. I had a mechanic look at it and he said when I attempted to start it that he didn't see or feel the cam moving ( using the oil fill on top of head to see/feel). I won't know till I start taking it apart of wether it snapped or Just came off. This sucks.

 

Well I still haven't touched the car. I don't know if it's worth throwing a timing belt on rather then just having it rebuilt.

Who thinks I should take my chances and have a timing belt done? I'm trying to make a move with the car after new years.

 

IMO you should the valves first , just to be safe

 

Toss a timing belt on it and see if it runs, if it runs like crap you probably have a bent valve.

I have seen quite a few interference motors blow timing belts and still not bend valves so it is worth a try before a full rebuild.

 

Thanks, thats probably going to be my next move. I'm getting tired of the car just sitting in my driveway, i need to drive it again already!

 

Well I finally decided to take the cover off the car in the driveway and go back at it. The timing belt is good, teeth look as if new and it feels tense, so i was wrong about that. The car is still not starting, just clicks for a few seconds when i try to turn it over. The cams aren't moving and the rotor doesn't move when I try and start it, so now i'm think the starter or starter solenoid as a possble solution. Any more input?

 

Ok.
That usually means that you need more juice or have a bad starter.
Is the battery new/newer? Can you put a battery charger/jumper just to rule that out?
Once you've ruled that out, I would check/clean your grounds and go from there.
You need to get this motor cranking over again to do proper troubleshooting. Don't buy/throw anything at it just yet.

 

are you sure no teeth are missing?

and yes recharge the battery and see if the starter will engage.

you can rotate the crank by hand with a 19mm socket and watch to see if the timing belt is missing any teeth. good luck

 

If perhaps the starter is the problem, would a bad starter cause the car to just stall out while driving?

 

No.
A bad ground will though.