I'm this desperate. I just want to be able to drive around with the common luxuries of a fuel gauge, backlights and tachometer. So whoever can explain to me how to fix this wiring will get $10 via paypal. Here are the pictures.

Here is the plug that plugs INTO the fusebox




Here are the other plugs that plugin down by the fusebox






I found this down by where the harness plugs into the fusebox, but I have no idea what the hell it is




Here is the hazard light hookup



Here are 2 Green/Orange wires tied together one end leads into the Hazard hookup



Here is a Yellow wire that just leads to nowhere that is in the wiring for the Hazard switch

Here are two Red/Black wires tied together, one again in the Hazard hookup



Here is one of the hookups for the gauge cluster



Once again, two Red/Black wires tied together, except this one leads to the plug I posted above.



I found this one confusing, Blue/Red and Red/Blue wires tied together, the wire that is mostly blue leads to the 8 pin plug for the gauge cluster, the wire that is mostly red leads to one of the plugs by the fusebox



Here is the 8 pin gauge cluster plug I mentioned earlier, note how one of the wires is cut.



Here is a White/Blue wire that comes from the fusebox plugs that leads no where...



Here is a blue wire that once again, I found just laying there, coming from the fusebox plugs, not hooked up to anything



Here are Yellow/White, Yellow/Black, and Yellow/White wires just tied together...One Yelow/White leads to the 8 pin cluster plug, the other Yellow/White leads down to somewhere by the fusebox. The Yellow/Black leads to the blue plug that goes where all the lights are.



Here are two Black/Yellow wires.. One leads into the 12 pin gauge cluster plug, while the other leads down by the fusebox once again



Here is a Brown/Black wire...Leads no where, comes from fusebox



Here are two black wires tied together...one leads to the 8 pin, other down to the fusebox.



Can somebody PLEASE help me. I made the incentive for you guys just cause I know this is probably an extreme PITA. I hope this is enough info for you, if not let me now, I can always take more pictures...

ALSO: I DO NOT HAVE A DIMMER SWITCH OR WIRING HOOKED IN THE WIRING, WHERE DO I WIRE IN A DIMMER SWITCH TO?

 

What year is the car? Those plugs look more like 90-91 plugs. The wiring is a little different between 88-89 and 90-91.

I can tell you that the RED/BLK wires go from all of the dash lights that are dimmable. The RED wire goes to illumination power and the RED/BLK wires all go to the dashlight dimmer unit.

 

91.

And I don't really follow you with the second paragraph. Electrical isn't my thing in cars.

I was wondering though why a yellow/black wire is tied into my fuel gauge wire, and if that could cause it to not work?

 

just go get anew harness.
this is very common in ef chassis.
its happened to 4 of my 7 ef's.

 

I have a different EF harness, PROBLEM is....I have a different fusebox than EF one, I thinks its a 92-95

 

If anyone knows about the blue plug that goes into the back of the gauge cluster...I know theres a yellow wire, but there is also a yellow and black wire. That wire is wired into my fuel gauge wire, I cant find anywhere down by the fusebox where a yellow/black wire runs. I am almost certain that there should be a yellow/black wire running from the fuse box to that blue plug. Could my fuel gauge not be working because of that yellow/black wire tied into the yellow/white wire?

 

Blue wire should go to your tach. Just use another harness and get a fusebox from a
90-91. Problem solved 10 dorar plezz.

 

I will look at my haynes manual when i get home from work

 

I'd say go back to the stock fuse box and get a new harness.

That really looks like the easiest course of action, especially since you don't know electrical enough to be able to understand:
Not hating. There's always a learning curve. We all start somewhere.

 

Okay, but how hard is it going to be to swap fuse box's. I mean 90-91 is OBD0 and its a OBD1 fusebox, unless its all plug and play?

 

I admit I don't know 4th gen Civics perfectly yet, but I'm about to swap a '98 Y8 into my CRX (I see you have a Y7) and I've never heard any mention of swapping fuse boxes. (Using stock '88 HF engine harness, alternator adapter so I can use the Y8 alternator, VTEC subharness, distributor adapter, ECU jumper and a P28. Conversion cost me $190 from RyWire plus $35 for the alternator adapter and $80 for the chipped P28.)

I've never heard of a fuse box being described as OBD1. I could be wrong... But what is the advantage of using the 92-'95 fuse box over a '90-'91, which your plugs would fit into (I see your other thread mentions they won't fit).

 

I didn't put that in, I got a deal on the car cause of a few wiring issues, if it will just plug in, its worth a try, but I'm going to do a little experimenting right now. Do you know what the Yellow/Black wire functions as? I can't find a description anywhere.

 

I'd say an Electrical Troubleshooting Manual for the car would help loads, but I'm not really sure what parts you have all in that vehicle at this point.

The original thread, in case anyone else can help.

This is what I gathered from your posts:
1991 Honda Civic DX hatch
1996-2000 D16Y7
1992-1995 Civic interior fuse box
1991 Civic DX dash harness (with lots of modification)
1992-1995 P06 ECU

Problems with vehicle:
- Gauge cluster backlighting does not work.
- Can't find dimmer switch wiring.
- Fuel gauge doesn't work (stuck on full).
- No blower motor resistor.
- No blower motor resistor wiring.
- Blower motor control unit wiring cut.
- Code 10 (IAT).
- Can't find IAT wiring.
- Doesn't look to have used any jumper for the ECU.

That dash harness I would probably replace asap and then go from there.

I feel bad because I have a similar model ('88 CRX HF) and I'm putting a similar engine in (1998 D16Y8) and all I need for it seems to be this, my stock engine wire harness, stock dash harness, and an alternator adapter ($305 including the $80 for the ECU you wouldn't need - and you wouldn't need the VTEC subharness either so it might be cheaper).

And my parts are from RyWire. I'm sure you could find cheaper versions.

I would think the best way would be to just replace the wiring with the easy stuff ('91 dash harness, '91 fuse box, '91 HF/Si engine harness) and then use the correct jumpers and conversion harnesses and all, but that might not be feasible for your situation.

 

I got some great news. I ****ed around with the wiring a bit and I got some positive news.

The tachometer now works....

The fuel gauge which was always stuck on full, is now on E.

Dimmer switch still doesnt work :/

 

Your best bet is to buy a new wire harness and fuse box and start from scratch.

 

Or offer more money.

 

Both of these.

Electrical issues, especially when you can't be there with the car, can be complicated. $10 really isn't enough. You'd be paying hundreds if you brought it somewhere, and that's just labor. I wouldn't be surprised if that mess just got yanked out and new harnesses were constructed or replacements were just purchased by a shop if they had this car anyway.

I'd replace the harnesses. Everything else seems like too much effort and time. Not to mention stress.

 

Okay, well if anyone still wants to help me, I just did this fuel gauge test.



It passed that. So the gauge is getting power, just not getting the right signal... Could it possibly be the float?

 

No, your gauge is supplied a signal of how much gas you have. It is not the same wire that powers your fuel pump

 

But if I jump that plug, my gauge gets a full signal, which would tell me that the problem would lie in the gas tank (Its not getting a signal). Common sense would be either the sending unit or float. Is this wrong to think?

This may sound weird, but I also noticed while I removed the plug from the sending unit, there was a white substance in the plug and on the unit hookup.

 

Sounds like a sort of dielectric grease. Wouldn't worry about it.

We're just suggesting the harness replacements because (1) it's easier than rewiring something wrong in the hopes you can make it work, (2) you expressed how you are not great with electrical (no shame), and (3) it will save you a lot of headaches and time.

 

NOFX, wouldn't you agree though, that if I test my fuel gauge by jumping the sending unit plug, and it goes to F (Like its suppose to) that my Fuel sending unit is my problem?

 

It is a grease that keeps moisture out of the plug

 

Could be, but that won't solve all your other issues, nor will it make anything easier except you'll know how full the tank is.

Replacing the harness will get rid of the damages your harness already seems to have suffered, everything will plug in right because it's for the correct car and you'll be able to find all the plugs. Not to mention all the wiring will be known to be from a certain car and you can then get better information regarding wiring issues in the future, if there are any (because you can get the applicable electrical troubleshooting manual).

 

Here wiring diagram for the gauges
And I think the white plug that don't belong anywhere, is for factory tape/radio