97 civic z6 wiseco build
Hey guys Ive been recently putting together a build slowly but surely i haven't got it started up yet. I'm not getting spark i think i need a new coil but here is what i have so far.
Build Parts:
D16z6 Cleaned and Honed Block
Port and polished and milled D16 Z6 head
75mm Wiseco and Eagle Rods w/ Wiseco rings
Garrett T28 Ball bearing turbo
Tial BOV
Sparco Edelbrock Intercooler
Edelbrock log turbo manifold
Edelbrock Performer X Intake manifold
Hondata Intake manifold gasket
Clevite Bearings Modified oil holes
Notched block and Girdle to clear rods and rod bolts
Chase bays Brake line tuck
Chase bays Wilwood Master cylinder
Chase bays Flexible clutch line
Shaved and Painted engine bay and wire tuck
Relocated battery
Here's some pictures of the build process... Enjoy.. i missed a few pictures in the process so i don't have pictures of the modified bearings or notching of the block

75mm Wiseco Pistons and Eagle Rods

Marked lines for notching the rods(also oil holes in bearings reamed with taper edge)

Notched girdle to clear rod bolts

Clearance between rod bolts

Rods and Pistons installed and Rings Gaped

Bondo and Shock Tower Prep Welded up holes

Primed up

Painted Engine Bay


Engine on engine stand

Engine installed




More pictures to come when im finished
Build Parts:
D16z6 Cleaned and Honed Block
Port and polished and milled D16 Z6 head
75mm Wiseco and Eagle Rods w/ Wiseco rings
Garrett T28 Ball bearing turbo
Tial BOV
Sparco Edelbrock Intercooler
Edelbrock log turbo manifold
Edelbrock Performer X Intake manifold
Hondata Intake manifold gasket
Clevite Bearings Modified oil holes
Notched block and Girdle to clear rods and rod bolts
Chase bays Brake line tuck
Chase bays Wilwood Master cylinder
Chase bays Flexible clutch line
Shaved and Painted engine bay and wire tuck
Relocated battery
Here's some pictures of the build process... Enjoy.. i missed a few pictures in the process so i don't have pictures of the modified bearings or notching of the block

75mm Wiseco Pistons and Eagle Rods

Marked lines for notching the rods(also oil holes in bearings reamed with taper edge)

Notched girdle to clear rod bolts

Clearance between rod bolts

Rods and Pistons installed and Rings Gaped

Bondo and Shock Tower Prep Welded up holes

Primed up

Painted Engine Bay


Engine on engine stand

Engine installed




More pictures to come when im finished
Well over looked a few things and found something loose and tried to start it again and the car started right up! its alive Woot woot! more pics to come
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That came with my edelbrock turbo kit. the setup of the downpipe is a weakness on this turbo; it chokes the turbo out on high boost. id recommend making ur own 3" downpipe. i have a bolt on 3" v-band adapter for when i upgrade my manifold and downpipe. You can buy them from edelbrock but im sure that will be quiet pricey.
the edelbrock turbo kit is a/c compatible... my a/c was ripped out a long time ago and i dont plan to keep this turbo manifold or downpipe when i turn up the boost. then it wont be a/c compatible anymore anyway.... my type S has A/C if its really that hot out. being my cars a 4door with all the windows down its not bad without a/c. it doesn't bother me much , but for others it may be a bigger issue.
That came with my edelbrock turbo kit. the setup of the downpipe is a weakness on this turbo; it chokes the turbo out on high boost. id recommend making ur own 3" downpipe. i have a bolt on 3" v-band adapter for when i upgrade my manifold and downpipe. You can buy them from edelbrock but im sure that will be quiet pricey.
pretty simple to run the lines. two coolant lines will be on the sides and your oil feed will be on the top and the drain will b to the bottom. its best to have this vertical. Also make sure u have the correct oil restrictor for the turbo or it will only last u a month before the bearings fail. the coolant lines don't matter which goes to what but i have mine setup to go to the small side nipple off the big coolant line that goes behind the thermostat housing (far left side of the manifold.) The other one goes to the IACV. you just bypass that coolant line to your turbo.
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thx for the help. btw clean setup looks great did you do the wire tuck by your self?

