So the bottom end on my GSR is done, cracked landing on a piston and 180-180-180-125 across the board. I figured while tearing it apart I might as well upgrade a bit, but cash is tight for the build. My setup thoughts are below, wanted to see if anyone had a similar setup and recommendations.

Stock GSR block, honed
USDM ITR Pistons (standard size) on GSR rods
ITR Springs and Retainers with stock valves
CTR Cams on AEM True-Time gears
New Stage 2 Comp Clutch or Exedy, but probably Comp
Skunk2 Intake Manifold, stock TB
3" Intake - Unsure of brand
Hondata/Dyno Tune with a P28

 

Your missing a good solid header, dont cheap out.

 

Totally forgot, currently have a blox 4-2-1, if I find a decent priced header I'll grab one.

 

Stage 2 clutch is a waste. All you need is Stage 1. Save money on that and by keeping a stock IM and apply it towards a set of more agressive cams and a RMF knockoff or SK2 Alpha header.

 

I'm a parts dealer, so my cost for stage 1/2 is similar, depending on which brand I go with. Cam wise, what would you suggest, I was thinking CTR or Blox, but my tuner said for dailying and such that the CTR would be better on the valvetrain wear. Also, any intake suggestions? Everyone told me I needed an upgraded intake manifold, that won't hamper my gains? Thanks for the help.

 

Also - Looking to buy CTR cams and a bare b18c1 block if anyone has one.

 

I'm of the opinion that it's best to get the least agressive clutch demanded by an application, because less agressive clutches wear better and drive better.

For cams I'd suggest getting the most aggressive cams that suit your compression. I'd think Blox A or B cams would be good for your build. The primary profiles on both of those are similar enough to stock that I don't think valvetrain wear is an issue. Honestly, I'm not sure it's ever much of an issue in Honda's.

For exhaust mods people have learned that there's no reason to do anything but get the biggest, freest flowing exhaust possible. But it's not the case for intakes. People with milder builds are probably better off with stock IMs, because the flow advantages of aftermarket IMs are detrimental for lower-flowing builds. I would guess that for now your money is better spent elsewhere (better header, bigger cams, etc.). Once you have a strong build, them you might consider upgrading the IM later. Otherwise it's dead weight, so to speak.

tl;dr:

CTR cam + stock IM is same as or better than CTR cam + aftermarket IM
Blox B cam + stock IM is way better than CTR cam + either IM
Blox B cam + stock IM is not as good as Blox B cam + aftermarket IM

So upgrade order should be cams then IM, IMO.

For reference there Oh1fstGSR has a ~180 whp build with ITR cams, and his PerfX hurt his powerband everywhere except the very top. People with S2P2 cams and bored B18s find power gains everywhere.

 

Okay so revisited plan would be stock block with std size ITR pistons on GSR rods. Upgraded valve train? Blox cams, intake, stock IM and an exedy clutch

 

Yeah keep your IM stock. The GSR intake manifold has the sickest torque curve ever, and gives you 2 stages of vtec. I'd stick with it since the benefits of adding an aftermarket IM at only 5-15hp (depending on tune and other factors), and this occurs ONLY after 6500 or so RPM. Totally not worth it unless you are above 6000RPM daily and running the car on the track.

No point in losing low-mid range torque just for the few peak ponies.

 

Thanks for props. The new Modified GSR manifold is nearly ready to go on. Waiting for some gaskets.

 

looking forward to your results

 

What about BC3+ cams? I think they're awesome for daily driving.

 

Modified in what way? Just a straight port or..?

 

Can a GSR manifold out perform a Performer X?
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/can-gsr-manifold-out-perform-performer-x-2808750/

Planning to add some updates tonight.

 

You're at a similar setup to my goals. What kind of power are you putting down? I'm thinking that I may just port the manifold then..

 

190/136 on a dynojet

 

Great, gathering parts and will let you all know..

 

Anyone have any experience with Ferrea valves?

 

Just stick with OEM valves

 

What springs should I run. I can get anything easily, been told I need duals..

Thanks everyone for helping so far.

 

Get dual valvesprings from Supertech or your cam manufacturer.

 

Okay, I'll go super tech since they cost me nothing basically. Thinking blox type a, b seems a bit more aggressive then I need.

 

Are you milling the head at all to bump up compression?

 

Wasn't planning on it, should I be?

 

Also when dealing with Hondata, I'm going S300 so i can use it for boost eventually if I go that route with another engine I'm eyeing up. Should I put it in a P28 or P72. Does anyone recommend one over the other, I can't really fnd a good link with info on them in regards to hondata, I always hear P28..