My name is John of Explicit Speed Performance, thought I would post some pictures and make a build thread of the new addition. One of my daily's 95 LS got into an accident and it's life has come to an end. So I purchased this 1995 Integra GSR and I decided to make this one even better... If you haven't noticed I am an H22 lover... I have built in my crx and for customers a cookie cutter Blue Top H23Vtec build that makes 215-218 hp and 174-178 trq.
http://www.ExplicitSpeedPerformance.net
Honda/Acura Traction Bar Systems, Motor Mount Kits, 2/3/4 Point Solid Strut Bars

Past Project: My baby:

1990 Crx HF Rio Red
Built H23Vtec Turbo 473hp 373 trq @ 15 psi
2000 lbs






My old car 1995 Integra LS JDM H22A Rio Red: Which is my donor car for the GSR.





and to the Project car... 1995 Integra GSR... this is currently how it sits...






Dupont Rio Red, 2 coats of classy clear...




Project Build:

Exterior:

OEM Type R wing
Dupont Rio Red
JDM SIRG Front End, Type R lip
JDM ITR New OEM radiator support (thanks ICB)
JDM ITR sidemarkers
98-01 Rear Bumper (came with the car)
98-01 Rear tails

Engine/Trans:

JDM H23Vtec Blue Top (Stock Internals) with H22 JDM LSD M2B4 trans
Manual Tensioner conversion
Euro R Intake Manifold
68mm TB
OBD1 H22A injectors 345cc
ESP 3" Short Ram Air Intake
ESP 4-2-1 Header
3" Cat. and Exhaust System
Exedy Street Clutch and flywheel 10 lb. chromoly 1 piece
P28 crome tuned (speed factory racing .net , James)
Rywire.com conversion harness (old teg) Thanks Ryan!

Dyno plot from previous same setups I built:





Suspension/Brakes:

Skunk2 pro series complete coilover
Brembo Blank Rotors
Hawk HPS pads
Goodridge SS brake lines (thanks IRP)

-ESP.net EG/DC H22A/F 5 spd Motor Mount Kit
-ESP.net EG/DC/EK H22A/F Traction Bar System with Front Torque Mount Kit
-ESP.net Upper H OEM spec Alternator Kit

Rywire.com Soft Line Brake Kit !!!! Thanks Ryan, will post pix of the install.

I will post more pictures as the progress continues next in order is the Brake Line Kit install and off to paint...

 

Thanks for the kind comments...
I will be taking out the dash later tonight so I can install the brake line kit.

Rywire Brake Line Tuck Kit http://www.Rywire.com Thanks Ryan!

- Fast Shipping! Came in 2 days!
- Greattt quality of parts and fittings

I will install this tom. and will do some detailed pictures of the whole process

This kit does all the homework and makes it pretty simple. Just drill firewall holes for firewall fittings 6 holes in total. Cut and Double Flare the 2 rear lines and your done.

- Double Flare Tool kit from 3/16"+ (O Reilys sale $12.95)
- Small 1/8"+ steel line cutter $6.99 (O Reilys)
- 90+ Integra 40/40 Perportioning Valve

A couple things needed to mention to Rywire upon purchase. What Brake Booster/Master Cylinder/Car and what 40/40 Perportioning Valve





In order to do the ABS Delete... the correct way is to use your ABS Booster and ABS Master Cylinder or RS NON ABS Booster and RS NON ABS MC.
94-97 Integra Boosters will only work on 94-97 same with the Master Cylinders. They are different then the 98-01. There are only 10mm banjos for the MC hard and soft line conversions. The ABS MC from 94-97 use 1 10mm fitting and 1 12mm fitting. You will need to purchase a male 12mm/female 10mm 1.0 adapter. 98-01 Integras your lucky no need for the adapter both fittings are 10mm.


I thought I would do a quick write up of the install into my 1995 Integra GSR.


Tools Needed:
Drill
11/32 Drill Bit
Punch
Smaller Pilot Bit
Double Flare Tool Kit (Autozone)
Files, 1 Flat and 1 round
Small 1/8"+ tubing cutter
5/8" long socket for bulkhead fittings
Ratchet
Short and Long extension

Die grinder, metal abrassive bit and cut off wheel

You will need to remove the dash, heater, AC and need to move the inside firewall matt to gain access to the firewall from inside. I also removed the complete rear cross member which isn't a must. I'll explain later.

Inside the bay for your Master Cylinder bulkhead fittings, there will be a round dimple in the firewall for the left/passenger side bulk head fitting then space out enough next to it on the right for the other fitting. Mark your holes make sure they are far enough apart and same height. Use a punch, drill with the smaller pilot bit. Then the 11/32 bit. With a round file, clean off the burrs. Then install the fitting. Do the same for the driver side one.




You will see on the passenger side firewall from the inside once you take down the firewall matt 3 spot welds in a triangle then there will be 3 somewhat inline till the wheel well. Go for the middle spot weld as show below. Use your punch or smaller pilot bit and drill then with the larger 11/32 bit. Clean burrs with file. Install bulkhead fitting. Pretty simple.





Below is where I ran my 90* bulkhead fittings for the rear brake lines. It is recommended to pair them more so on the driver side and closer together. I ended up doing them a little differently. I also cut my lines to short with the rear cross member in the car, which is a night mare to try and cut and flare the rear lines. I recommend dropping the rear cross member.

****When drilling the bulkhead fittings for the rear brake lines make sure to avoid the inside car main wire harness. You don't want to drill through that!!!******

I ended up cutting the stock lines and with the left over brake line was able to bend it around in order to splice it into the rear lines and into the bulk head fitting. I was able to use the OEM fittings on one side of each line, then only had to double flare 1 side on each line and of course had to double flare the rear lines once cut.

Once I cut down my stock rear lines you will notice there is a rubber protectant over it. I simply used a razor/exacto knife. Then some heat helps to soften up and then start peeling it off. Make sure you get the adhessive sticky stuff off too or your fitting wont go on it the line. I used 2 OEM left over fittings and a splice from O Reilys 10mm I believe so I could connect the old line with the new lines.

*Make sure to measure the lines get the right bends you want in them. Then cut.*




Below is how I mounted my 40/40 90-97 Integra Perportioning Valve. I removed my SRS computer holder in order to mount the perp. valve. To remove the SRS brace/holder I used the die grinder and the round wheel, cut the legs off then make an incession on top from side to side. Take your vis scripts and go back and forth on each and the spot welds will give.










*******Make sure all fittings are tighten down, then bleed brakes, check for leaks, once you bleed the brakes and there are no leaks then you may put everything back together*********


Dropping the rear crossmember without the engine:

I first took off the steering rods on each side from the hub,
Unbolted the Lower Control Arm from the hub
Unbolted the Shock bottom bolt from the LCA
Unbolted the 1 lower bolt from the steering column
Undo the power steering line from to the driver side frame rail and sensor

There will be 4 main large bolts on each side I believe they were 19mm head. Do not stand directly under the rear cross member when taking it out. Use a jack or a friend to spot you when un doing the rear cross member.

 

Goodridge SS lines in...HPS pads... installed painted calipers...Duplicolor Caliper Kit!...Soft line brake line in...Brembo blanks...

Skunk2 UCA...Skunk2 Pro Series Coilover... both from old car cleaned up nicely

Just got to do the rear now...

 

Small Update: Gathering some parts while waiting for my car in the body shop. I will have it back next week, there just finishing blocking it can't wait to see it all one color...
Ordered a ton of tiny stuff from Honda and Acura... A new integra cowl , ps pump rebuild seal kit, manual tensioner goodies, some trim...

Thanks for Streetlightz , got my good old trusty Honda Euro ITR rear badge and my JDM front emblem and rear emblem in silver...

Got my Rywire.com Clutch Line Kit, as always looks very nice and super fast on shipping! My old ebay line was 4 ft and was a little short which took me some thinking on routing lol this one is 4.5 ft and I will have no issues

 

Some more goodies coming in... got a new integra plastic cowl and some Honda Type Rx Pedal Set !!!

 

Rio Red Bling Bling.... talk about dent free lol
Whats next:
Take side skirts off and get painted
Bleed brakes
Order some misc. rubber trim to clean it up
New windshield
Put all interior back in...


If you look hard enough you can see old busted Rio Red in the left corner... clear coat is pretty darn shiney and spendy...

Fitment of the front end is about dead nut... I have seen a lot of them needing little work... body shop did a great job on the fitment/body work and paint as always... This car had a ton of tiny little dents, it's wierd to see it all smooth and straight

If you guys ever need some body and paint done for good price and local...

Puget Sound Autobody
1015 85th Ave SE
Olympia, WA 98501
360-943-3142 Ask for Bob

 

Side Skirts are back on color matched...
Cleaned/Clay Bar'd and Razored all overspray on windows... like new now
All side skirt and headlight wirring done...
New JDM fender liners installed
New splash guards on...
Interior is 99% together... Opted for Type R front and rear seats...
Installed new winshield, new plastic cowl...
Installed all new window and upper door trim...
Working on the Runners and Upper Trim and installing the JDM visors...

 

Here is the most recent update. Wheels back from powder coating mirror black.

I came across a M2B4 JDM H22 LSD Transmission on craigslist a few months back. It was a pretty cheap price. So made me liery, Shifted it upon seeing it everything went in gear, couple weeks later took it to my mad scientist H/F transmission guru. Took it all apart and not one issue. Good deal.

I ordered the H23A Vtec Blue Top from Hmotorsonline.com. Spotless motor! 2000 PDE version as well. Valve cover had not one knick on it, used and abused one is picture below for install purposes. I didn't even have to steel wool the engine to clean up, spotless! Shame I had to tear it apart...



I got a deal locally on a complete JDM F20B Blue Top Manual Version Head I mic'd the cams sure enough Manual Version which has Euro R/Type S cams in it and i gladly swapped out the valve springs/retainers/cams. Then I put everything back together on the H23V PDE Head all OEM parts used and then I just installed the engine in the last week.

I have done enough swaps however something you shouldn't do is install an engine by your self at 2 am in the morning, which I did and lucky enough not one scratch anywhere.



It was installed with our ESP EG/DC H22/F 5 spd Motor Mount Kit in Wrinkle Black. Going with everything Wrinkle Black from radiator cooling shroud to 3" Air Intake Pipe etc....

Just installed the 3" Thermal R&D exhaust on it. Just about done recieving parts in. Now I will get it all together here in the next week on my spare time.

Only thing I have to custom make is the ESP 4-2-1 H22 Header...

 

nice! i wouldve shaved the moldings imo.

 

Bump for nice project ... N updates

 

Steve at hmo is the best in the industry imo, I bought my B series type r from him back in 07, been dailying it since. Best of luck on the rest of the build!

 

i love red dc's, car is coming along really nice!

 

I see on your old integra you were able to keep the power steering, but were you able to keep the a/c? Great info btw you don't see very many h-series integra builds on here.

 

Thanks for the kind comments... yup kit has great ground clearance, keeps PS, great axle alignment and you get to keep the passenger side ears with little work. Pretty much why I made it, just wasn't happy what was on the market for the EG/DC H/F's


Pretty much what it looks like now... all in, just waiting on slim fan, fpr gauge and building the header...

 

that build seems so fast ! always had a soft spot for jdm teggys. in for this. local hollaaaaaaaaaa

 

looks sharp

 

any picture where you drilled for the driver side fender well?