I've found write ups on people replacing the valve stem seals with the head on, but not for a 5th gen prelude so I'm asking has anyone done it? How difficult was it to Do with the limited space between the cam shaft holder and the head wall?

it seems that it is a small area and I wanted to see if anyone has done it?
I'm not removing the head, if I do that I may as well replace the whole head with a brand new one that is rebuilt.

 

Ummm why replace, just rebuild it your self ... You can do it with head on but you need a compressor like 60 gal, adaptor for spark plug socket correct tool... if you have never done this before I would say just pull the head and get it milled down and rebuilt by a shop that knows what they are going. Its the same for all heads ever made not just hondas... it compresses the cylinder...

 

It's pretty straightforward replacing the valve seals with the head installed, just very laborious. Timing belt job + all the rest that's involved. This was one of the biggest jobs when I first started working on my car. The write-up below is the one I used as reference and found it helpful at the time.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A%2Ahow-%2A%2A%2A-install-valve-springs-valve-stem-seals-1604753/


-Don't use Honda valve seals. They're crap compared to the Supertech ones made of Viton.

-Even the smallest compressor is enough to keep the valves from dropping. Some fish rope into the cylinder and up to TDC to achieve the same thing.

-Use this valve spring compressor. It's incredibly simple and compact. All the others I've come across are pretty clumsy compared to it. Looks like it's increased in price since I bought it.

-Use a rubber band to connect all the rocker arms for a given cylinder. They'll hold each other up and out of the way.

-If you're using pliers and not a slide-hammer valve seal removal tool, make sure to apply heat to the valve seal before trying to remove it or you'll hate life. Cheapo Harbor Freight heat gun worked well.

-Applying a bit of vaseline or something similar to the inside of the keeper makes life much easier when getting them back in there.

 

What motor are we talking about here?

I replaced mine on my JDM H22A when I installed my Skunk2 Pro2 cams with some OEM valve seals. It's easy, I had to use a needle nose locking jaw plier to clamp it onto the valve seal good so it doesn't slip then wiggle it the f*ck out til it comes off the valve guide. It's on there pretty good depending how long it's been in there. Then I use a 12mm socket to install the new ones back on by just pushing the valve seals over the valve guide using the 12mm socket; perfect diameter to use as a tool.

 

the motor is a h22a4, and I have to removed the timing belt too? How much time do you think this will take?

if its going to take more than 3 hours I'm just going to replace the whole head, head gasket, timing belt, water pump, tensioner pulley, etc.

 

I would say that just taking the timing belt and such off, and getting the cams out, will take an hr or more, then doing all the seals, around an hr, and an hr or 2 to put it all back together maybe? Pretty much either way you will get it torn down to the point of either pulling the head off, or doing the seals right there. Without pulling the head, you save a head gasket, and draining the coolant, and pulling all of the extra stuff off related to the thermostat housing etc.

 

so the timing belt tensioner bolt is the one sticking out near the pulleys?
remove the timing belt, remove the cams and cam shafts, than proceed to do the valve stem seals.

than put it all back together, realign the timing marks I put, tighten the tensioner and bam all done?

hours enoguh?

 

hey Pirate, I was reading your specs and sorry for changing topic, but why did you use a 5th gen steering rack?

 

so is the timing belt tensioner pulley the bolt sticking out by the pulleys outside if the valve cover

 

dude, if you have to ask these basic questions I would not even bother doing it yourself. Not hatin, but you havent done a timing belt before and this is a bit more technically involved IMO. good luck whatever you choose to do though.

 

first off if you don't have useful knowledge don't reply. Secondly I meant to say sticking out of the timing cover. Thirdly this is the first time doing timing on a prelude. I've rebuilt 4 Dsm's and timed them just fine.. Its not rocket science and I know how mark the spots to ensure I put it back together the same way.

its a simple question but the helps manual does not say...