Brake Pad question
So... I bought some APS Hawk Pads and had a shop install the rotors and pads but the pads aren't for the wagon.... Yes I had a shop do it because working 7 days a week and trying to install with HOR setup is a PIA
The mechanic accidentally broke the metal tab thingies from the pads... Does that affect the functionality?
I'm thinking no since those metal tabs were just for warning when pads were getting low
Sorry. They are here circled in red I'm not sure what they're called. And they're only on 2 pads, I believe they're the inner ones
The mechanic accidentally broke the metal tab thingies from the pads... Does that affect the functionality?
I'm thinking no since those metal tabs were just for warning when pads were getting low
Sorry. They are here circled in red I'm not sure what they're called. And they're only on 2 pads, I believe they're the inner ones
Last edited by CDelgado220; Oct 1, 2011 at 10:17 AM.
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correct, you are fine with them once you keep an eye on the pad thickness..
That said, you have a careless mech to break those clips.. He had to have dropped the pads or something
That said, you have a careless mech to break those clips.. He had to have dropped the pads or something
That said this is not a mechanic I go to on a norm, it was the one closest to my house and it was at a Gulf station.
I miss my mechanic in NY .... Willets Pt Blvd ftw!
Last edited by CDelgado220; May 21, 2012 at 01:48 AM.
Are they installed on a wagon? Maybe the mechanic had to break the tabs off sedan pads so they would fit into wagon calipers?
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As I stated above the pads are not for a wagon and are not installed. They would not fit. I double checked with Hawk performance rep and they said they're for accord sedans and coupes and few other hondas. The wagon's calipers and rotors are a bit larger
In the circles I run in those are usually refered to a squeal indicators. Proper installation would be to put them on the inside since the pad that is closer to the piston usually wears a little faster. Also not that in the picture the two pads are mirror images of each other, you always want the squeal indicators to be at the bottom so that the rotor rotates up into it to get the loudest noise.
I personally disagree with removing them. Even if you do check your brake pads regularly, which for me is every 6K when I rotoate my tires. You can still wind up with a sticky caliper that prematurely wears out a pad and then costs you a rotor on top of it.
I personally disagree with removing them. Even if you do check your brake pads regularly, which for me is every 6K when I rotoate my tires. You can still wind up with a sticky caliper that prematurely wears out a pad and then costs you a rotor on top of it.
Yea...who needs proper caliper hardware that holds the pad with proper tension within the caliper....might as well remove that as well...all those metal clips and tension items do nothing and just get in the way.....then you can complain about rattles, squeeks, poor pad life, ect.....
Seriously, I'd run it for a short period but would want to replace the pads with the tabs there as soon as you can....there is a reason the little gap between the backing plate (D Plate) and the actual tab is there...can we guess why.
Seriously, I'd run it for a short period but would want to replace the pads with the tabs there as soon as you can....there is a reason the little gap between the backing plate (D Plate) and the actual tab is there...can we guess why.
Looking at the set of wagon pads I have in my garage, it would be really tough to "accidentally" break off the squeal indicators. They look like they're made of of 16 gauge steel, riveted in place.
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Tuesdaynightfever
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May 1, 2008 04:58 PM




