93 Civic:Problems after overheat
hi h-t,
So i was coming home the other night and one of my coolant(heater) hoses finally popped.Instead of calling a tow truck i decided to drive the car the 4 extra miles to home(I know not the best call),with the car at the h for the last mile and the car wanting to rev when i put it into neutral i finally made it home.Next morning i changed the hose,bled the system and put the key in the ignition,no CEL,upon starting the car runs fine for 2 secs then throws a code(which means i cant check it with paperclip trick).Now the car gets 10mpg and on idle it does a putting motion(spurts out of the exhaust).coolant looks fine not milky.Im at work and just decided to ask my fellow honda techs for a online diagnosis,thanks guys
Engine is a d16z6
Notes:
Ran the car overheated(4 miles)
exhaust sputters on idle
Cel only after engine on
So i was coming home the other night and one of my coolant(heater) hoses finally popped.Instead of calling a tow truck i decided to drive the car the 4 extra miles to home(I know not the best call),with the car at the h for the last mile and the car wanting to rev when i put it into neutral i finally made it home.Next morning i changed the hose,bled the system and put the key in the ignition,no CEL,upon starting the car runs fine for 2 secs then throws a code(which means i cant check it with paperclip trick).Now the car gets 10mpg and on idle it does a putting motion(spurts out of the exhaust).coolant looks fine not milky.Im at work and just decided to ask my fellow honda techs for a online diagnosis,thanks guys
Engine is a d16z6
Notes:
Ran the car overheated(4 miles)
exhaust sputters on idle
Cel only after engine on
Not good.
When the CEL turns on and the engine stalls, don't turn the key off. Instead leave the key in ON(II) while you jump the service connector to pull the codes.
When the CEL turns on and the engine stalls, don't turn the key off. Instead leave the key in ON(II) while you jump the service connector to pull the codes.
Just had a hole in a hose which i could not locate at the time
thanks to ron,i used a paperclip with the engine on and pulled 2 codes,map sensor and tps sensor,i guess coolant got up in the plug,anyway i can salvage them or best to just replace
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nah you might luck out and be fine. my d15b7 cylinder head was warped all to hell. i stuck it in the oven on 500 degrees for 1 hour and immediatly installed and torqued down and i drove on it a full year with no problems till i swapped the engine.
Update: Swapped the motor out for another z6,used the old z6 intake/tb.now i still throw code 3 and 7,so i switched the throttle body from the new z6 to the old z6 manifold which lead me to just throwing the map sensor code and not the tps,My new question is can using the old throttle body which is dirty inside cause it to throw a map sensor or should i just switch it out and find out
Update: Swapped the motor out for another z6,used the old z6 intake/tb.now i still throw code 3 and 7,so i switched the throttle body from the new z6 to the old z6 manifold which lead me to just throwing the map sensor code and not the tps,My new question is can using the old throttle body which is dirty inside cause it to throw a map sensor or should i just switch it out and find out
Then run on car and same thing back probe and see if you get 1 volt.
Did you try to reset the code and see if it comes back?
Also check the wiring to the MAP, for some reason I do not think a dirty throttle body will set off a code but I could be wrong, unless the throttle body is different and the MAP sensor you got is the wrong part?
Also check the wiring to the MAP, for some reason I do not think a dirty throttle body will set off a code but I could be wrong, unless the throttle body is different and the MAP sensor you got is the wrong part?
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93, ballade, civic, engine, heat, honda, motor, overheat, overheated, overheating, problems, reasons, stalls, starting, troubleshoot




