Ok... I'm currently running 240whp/240wtq boosted LS with GSR gears w/ '98 ITR LSD and final drive in a gutted EG hatch. been running like this since february on an OEM exedy clutch.

I run the car at the drag strip almost every week on ET streets babying it off the line (still pulling 1.9 60's) and really haven't had any problems with it. Before the end of the season i want to try more leaving off the 2-step and lower pressure in my ET streets. I've only tried a couple times but couldn't hook at all. I'm thinking this abuse or if i do get it to hook, will probably do in the clutch.. lol

regardless, I plan to make closer to 300whp next season and want a stronger clutch. I was ready to buy a CC stage 3 solid face kevlar but was talked out of it for the stage 4 which is cheaper and stronger.. I then talked to a guy at another shop who got on the phone with his CC rep who said i should just get the stage 2..

what you guys think? I dont know if he caught the part about wanting to run closer to 300 in the future.. open to suggestions!! anything to look out for with the ITR LSD??



the setup..

 

ACt 6 puck sprung hub, act extreme pressure plate, or if you go with CC, get the IRON MAN stage 4 kit, should be plenty for 300whp

 

^^ that's what i keep hearing. i really want to stay away from the "puck" clutches if i can though.. just can't decide.


did try leaving off the 2-step at the drag strip today. didn't 60' anything special but ran pretty decent still

[youtube]u9TNfL6RtNI[/youtube]

 

bump

about to buy the CC stage 4, but really still want to stay away from the puck clutch!

what is the strongest solid face clutch besides the CC stage 3 kevlar types??

 

Action Clutch, see Rob at TPR.

D16Z6 on 85 shot, 20x8x14's I cut a 1.81 60 foot at TriState, you need to work on your launch.



Too much clutch and you're just gonna shock the tires and play "sit and spin" at the starting line. A clutch that will just slip a bit at your power level is easy on the tranny and axles. But it is a fine balance line. You get it perfect and then add 30 more HP and the clutch acts like a snowmobile on 3-4 power shift.

 

Bone, this is BryanG from CSS!


come on now, I know how to launch! I was just trying the 2 step in the above vid. here's a 1.92 on "street" tires...

[youtube]2OIJ4XzWm9o[/youtube]

here's a 1.89
[youtube]B75LS6A7_4o[/youtube]

Rob's telling me to get the CC 4...

 

and I have a customer who junked a CC 4 rather quickly, there is a thread in this tranny forum about it. We think the flywheel step was wrong, but who is to say.

Then again I've NEVER bought a new clutch for a Honda in 16 years which is why I referred to Rob.

PS: change your ITR FD, LOL!

 

**** it, I'm goin with the CC stg 2. my OEM exedy did this well, that one should have no problem with just a little more power..


gonna leave the tranny alone for this setup. even if i changed the final drive I'd still be shifting into 5th. Once my back-up motor is ready, my LS tranny will be getting rebuilt for sure

 

Can a Stg2 CC handle with 300 whp?

 

being that its going in a car that weighs 2200 w/ driver, it should. that's the only reason the OEM exedy has ran all season with well over 100 passes at the drag strip and still holding 240wtq. gonna be pulling it in the next few days, interested to see what kind of shape its in.

putting it in something like a full weight 300whp integra would be a different story..

 

Makes sense!

 

got the CC stg 2 in.. sure is pretty clunky. hopefully changing my clutch master cylinder which is leaking a little on the inside above the pedal and breaking it in with some miles will smooth it up a bit.. got an appointment with Blundar on the 1st for moar powa!

 

let me know how the cc stage 2 clutch works out for you i am thinking about getting the same clutch i have heard good thing about it on honda tech and from some of my buddies so i looks like a good choice. One thread on here rates cc clutchs to include the stage two better then act stage 3 and stage 2. one guy said he has ripped many act clutchs to shreddes and never has done the same with cc.

 

I second this. Also had a cc4, nothing but lockout and creeping off the line issues.

 

Waiting for my recently bought CC Stg2
I will leave my feedback here once installed!

 

mine is definitely getting better with some miles.. im on stand by for the dyno on saturday, we'll see what shes made of! :lol:

 

still haven't changed my clutch mc yet, it's barely leaking at all but driving the car today it started to lock me out of 3rd gear while coasting in neutral and would only let it in if i revved up the motor...


clutch issue?? the bad master cylinder?? my unknown age slave cylinder possibly?? tranny!?!? tranny only has 2 or 3k since new synchros rebuild and I just did a OEM MTF change..

haven't tried going WOT through the gears at high rpms with the new clutch yet.. trying to break it in somewhat before it goes on the dyno

 

maybe it just needs a good hard WOT lashing through the gears to get everything "seated" in place? LoL. we'll find out if i get my dyno session in tomorrow!

 

 

seems to be holding great..

I maxed out my 440's @ 297wtq/302whp @ 18psi. so we backed the boost off to 15 psi where it made 268wtq/272whp. had an issue with my forge wga on the dyno, switched to the OEM Evo 8 and got much quicker spool. full boost @ 3000 rpms! hoping for 11's!!


EDIT: revised dyno numbers in my next post!


[youtube]U8EujGlh7dM[/youtube]

 

thats whats up. mine just came in yesterday

 

well.. i was pleasantly surprised today when i went up to the shop to get my dyno sheet print-outs.. I had forgotten to get them the day of, and apparently my numbers were way off..



here's the maxed injector 18psi pull making 286wtq / 310whp..



then on 15psi with some tweaking..



so it's actually currently making 302.2wtq / 285.3whp

 

clutch still holding strong! took her out for a bit in the sunshine today. can't wait for the drag strip to open!!

 

Hi!

I also have this experience with a Comp Clutch. I have run an Action for a very long time on my built z6, and have always heard that competition was a better brand. However, I went with a six puck sprung from competition for my latest build, and these are my observations.

1. The pedal feel is MUCH lighter than the action 6 puck sprung, it feels almost like OEM. I am not sure if this is somehow a function of the pressure plate being not as stiff and using a different material on the clutch plates to hold power better with less stiffness or what

2. The clutch is very very quick to engage, which I like since I always adjust my pedal be grabby a lot lower than most

3. The car really wants to hop a lot more off the line and it is much more chattier than the Action. Again, I believe this to be a function of the pressure plate which is not nearly as stiff.

All in all, I really wish I had gone with another action. I prefer a smoother pedal, even if it is a good bit stiffer. I am dissapointed in my competition, although I am getting used to it slowly.

 

1. I can't comment on this as I don't have an Action clutch to compare our clamp load to.

2. The quick engagement is due to the puck style disc not having a 'marcel cushion' in between the two sides of the disc. This is done for: quick engagement, less weight, more direct release.

3. Are you talking of wheel hop off the line? if so this has more to due with the natural frequency of the system vs the torque application.