Is the handle swap from the rear DB handles to my DC just a bolt in no fab. I see Gen 2 there is some bracket fab to be done.

I did the swap and doors will lock with remote but don't unlock.

Did I need to do something with the white plastic bracket that fit around the lock cylinder? It looked useless with the keyless handle. But there are wires that attach to it to operate the lock is why I ask.

 

That is the lock cylinder switch, it is part of the central locking system, as you no longer have a key cylinder, the switch has no porpose so it is not needed.

Do the doors unlock with the power door lock switch, or if you use a key in the drivers door? 94

 

I don't have the keyed door locks in now so I don't know the effect of the key in the door.

If I use the inside power lock switches, the drivers master control will lock and unlock both doors.

On the passenger side single control it will only lock but not unlock ( I tried two). Is this a safety feature on the passenger side control? I don’t remember. I normally run the LS interior handles (no power lock switches) and am using the old power lock controllers for some of the testing.

There was a point during the swap where the driver’s latch wouldn’t unlock manually; I did try the remote for a test when it was jammed. Could I have fried something that would cause this to happen by doing that? I fixed the latch jamb and it works perfectly now with the interior manual button as does the passenger side.

I did try the program/reprogram routine per the installation manual here on pg 14 http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...426V_07-05.pdf .

Separate from it just being just the remote it will lock when the ignition is turned on but no unlock when ign is turned off, which it should do.

Doesn't this sound like it's the alarm now more than anything thing else?

 

Just to be clear, you do still have a handle with the key cylinder on the drivers side, right?

Yes the problem can only be the alarm, [or it's wiring], trace the unlock lead, [H2C blue] from the alarm to it's connection point to the cars door lock wiring, make sure the connection is good.

To confirm connection, unplug the H2 3pin plug from alarm brain and use a jumper lead to supply a ground directly to the green, [lock] and blue, [unlock] leads, the doors should lock and unlock, if not the blue lead is not connected properly or to the correct lead.

If on the other hand the doors do lock and UNLOCK then the problem is the alarm, [something may be "fried"].

If that is the case, [alarms unlock output not working] you will need to replace the alarm, or you can use the H1/3 blue/white and program it for second unlock pulse, you would have to press unlock button twice to unlock the doors. 94

 

No both the left and right side doors are with keyless handles now.

I'll have to do those connection checks in a couple days thanks.

 

OK I just checked both the green and blue wires by grounding them at the 3P and the green will lock but the blue won't unlock so I must have a connection problem so it's probably not the alarm. I'll have to dig in a little more. I'm off work today because of a sore back (from doing the swap Monday) so I'm doing this kinda slow and may quit at any time, gonna pull out the Helms. Thanks for your help!

 

Wait, what, you have done both doors???

Unless you install a mechanical unlock system and the batt. fails, alarm fails, alarm remote fails, power door lock system fails, you do not have a way into the car, unless you plan on climbing through the hatch. 94

 

Yes climbing in through the hatch. Further along, two factors; The passenger door isn't getting an unlock signal and it's not unlocking when I turn off the key. The latter makes me want to turn attention back to the alarm or something incompatible in this swap with the alarm. I think I'm gonna let the installer have a crack at it. It's either that or tear the dash out.

 

Swapping the read db8 handes to the front will not affect the locking system. Unplugging the front handel key switch will also not effect it either. The car will still unlock and lock from the switch. I would go thru the car harness and check everything out. Door plugs and all.

 

Should not effect it, i did this on my DB (comes color matched). Easy swap and no problems after 4 years. GL

 

Yeah it's not the swap. Let me correct myself, it’s probably between the alarm blue – (negative) unlock signal back.

I forgot I did the blue/green grounding test (thanks fcm) at the alarm 3P yesterday with the blue unlock not responding so it probably is in the driver’s door to there; I probably gorilla-ed something.

I’m getting lost between doing and writing. I’m learning a little about alarms which I’ve never wanted to mess with. I will check all the suggestions, thanks!

 

Solution: When I took the handle lock bracket off I wrapped it up with tape and tucked it in the door, "only in the locked position". that was it. They're cut off and capped now like they should be

Thanks!

 

I want to add an additional helper to anyone finding this thread and doing this swap for the first time.

After cutting and capping or pig-tailing the three handle bracket wires of the now useless handle rod, the rod can be removed where it attaches below to the latch easily by spinning the rod clockwise downward and gently twisting/turning it while slightly pulling down/out on it; so it never gets in the way.

I also had in advance a bushing for each of the handle rods where you will be taking off the old handles and putting them back onto the rod. This should be typical, at least for the gen 3 as was for my 95 GSR.
This is part number > 72134-SM1-003 BUSH, HANDLE JOINT (OUTER) < http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no


Just follow the Service Manual if you have one for removing the handle, but if you don’t:

• Remove the door panel.
• Remove the three latch screws so the latch is free.
• Remove the two 10mm bolts to the handle.
• Push the handle up and outside the hole enough to unhook the lock sir clip so the white plastic lock bracket is free and twist it off the small rod. Have something ready to put between the handle and the outside of the door so you don’t scratch your paint.
• Pry off the handle from the bigger rod. (Careful with the plastic here!)
• Replace the bushing and install the keyless handle.
• Then reverse the process for installation.
I found the now extra rod easier to remove (as described above) when everything was bolted back down.

Small handle rod removed.