I have been plagued by this problem with my past three hondas. I cleaned the iacv, fitv, fresh tune up blah blah blah...... I would LOVE for someone to come up with a new idea. A friend at hondoctors in Las Vegas suggested a lazy IACV since everything else in the car is new or been tested in working order... I noticed if I ride the rpm down by downshifting to a stop its not as bad but this is only a crutch to the problem.

 

I have cleaned and adjusted my FITV per your links. It didn't seem to help any. I have a B18A1 in mine. PR4 ecu. Manual S80 trans. I can be sitting still and the idle in my car will be ok. If I rev the motor it will come down and drop below 500 rpm and then come back up. If im driving and push the clutch in to stop at a light it will do this also. It wont do it until I get below like 5 mph. So if I am driving at 60 mph lets say, and push the clutch in it won't do this. Sorry if this seems confusing. Im trying to be as informative as possible. No cels either. My idle surge isn't very bad. It hardly registers on the tach but I can feel it. Im more concerned about the rpms dropping. Thanks.

 

Sorry Ron.... I should know better..

 

Check for any vacuum leak and I know you clean everything did you Adjust the idle Screw

 

No vacuum leaks. I took the throttle body off and replaced the gasket and also replaced the idle screw and o-ring. It didn't make a difference. Idle is adjusted per honda spec. I see this problem alot on here and have never seen anyone solve it.

 

Coolant levels good?

Kev

 

Yes coolant is perfect. I have recently replaced the headgasket, waterpump, timing belt, cam seals, valves adjusted, tune up, etc.... I had the problem before all this was replaced also... Bled the system 3 times. All with the car parked uphill, fan came on twice, (just to make sure it was hot), heater set to hot, just like Ron@H/T sugguests. Keep em comming everyone, eventually I'll find it. Thanks guys!!

 

anyone?

 

Problem solved!!! I put a p75 ecu in it and it runs and idles perfectly. I couldn't be more relieved to finally be rid of this freaking problem.

 

nice you found a solution to your problem, I have the same problem except I have two obd1 ecu's a pr4 and p75 which both run my b20b like the problem you were having before. I have tried a new throttle body, three IACV's, and a new timing belt and yet nothing will help me run an obd1 ecu. I have an obd2b crv ecu which runs my b20 well but the idle scares me since it will go to about 550rpm or even lower it feels like. I am running out of options here.

 

I am new to this form and was looking for help on a Code 14 on my B18A swapped 1992 Honda Civic.
Details on the car:
- Car is currently feels like it is hunting to idle correctly
- Only has Code 14
- Chipped P28 - but do not know the tune
- All of the internals are stock including the injectors
- Injectors were clean professionally and tested fine
- I think it is the Manifold off the 1992 Civic
- Air Adjustment Screw is 1/2 turn out
- Looks like stock Harness has been correctly added to with Knock Sensor and VTEC per threads I read on this site
- New Intake Gasket / sprayed with carb cleaner to validate it does not leak
- New Vac Lines - Car has the canister but not the purge valve / sprayed with carb cleaner to validate it does not leak
- Tested wire - Got Voltage and Ground - Car will shut off if unplugged
- When I take the IACV off and test valve with ground on one side / power to the other side ... hear a very faint click
- Attached are pictures of the IACV pulled off (have gasket save in a zip lock) ... this one has a wider width bolt spread than other IACV that I have seen

Do I need to do the procedure of getting the car warm (Fan On) / pull the plug / keep car running to get Idle set and then plug back in.

Or do i need a valve ... here is what I have ... what would the part number be?

 

And I did clean the valve before Installing / Checked Coolant Level / Burped the System

Thanks in advance for any help on this matter.