So a few weeks ago my speedometer stopped working and I got a check engine light on the dash. I jumped the wire connector and got code "17" meaning that the speed sensor was bad, I went to inspect and realized it was stuck, but with a little patience and with the help of my pliers i removed the sensor. Unfortunately, the pin and connector looked like it had been burned together causing it to stick, and the Grey plastic around the wires to break when I removed it. But no worries I just removed it and ordered a new speed sensor. I had planned to just connector the wires directly to the sensor.

Fast forward, I receive the new sensor and like an idiot, I diddnt disconnect the negative cable while my friend to sat in car listening to music from my stero. thumbs down I know, I know, stupid, stupid move. 1) always remove negative cable and While removing the sensor something drops, I get distracted and I allow the wire connectors, no longer in gray connector touch the transmission, I see a spark and the engine immediately dies.

I got in to start the vehicle, and to no surprise, it doesn't start. Im getting a solid cel, I repeat the 2 pin process and continue to see the solid cel. I also am not hearing the fuel pump prime. SO.... I do some research and start troubleshooting...

Fast forward some more, Bought a new ECU, still no start. Any other possibilities? I thought main relay? Solid cel, no fuel pump priming. Should I try ANOTHER ECU? or move on to other possibilities.

Then...Tried another main relay known to be good, and triple checked fuses. Still no start. Starting to lean towards a short in wire somewhere? Or bad ground? Also got the multimeter out and the main relay harness is good.

Later discovered this?



I was checking the grounds to the ECU...Looks like some spliced wires?

But there is continuity at A23 and A24 of the ECU harness and terminal 2 of the main relay harness. They all ground at the thermostat housing. Also continuity at the fuel pump so im stumped.

Those wires spliced together behind my ECU still bother me, I might try another dash harness? IM STUCK!

Any help?

 

By the way post your car, year and model.

You might of arched something, check your fuses.

 

This^ (OP see forum rules)

Correct again.

OP, you should have posted this thread before you bought an ECU and main relay. Your problem is that 15A dash fuse 24 is blown.

 

Sorry guys, 1995 Honda Civic Sedan. Stock d15b7.
Ill check fuse 24 tonight. Thanks for advice I will get back to you all.

 

Ha. I feel like a noob, although I must admit I kinda am. Pulled 15 fuse from stereo and put in #24 and it cranked right up, even though it diddnt look blown, it was. Although there were some other issues.

I was not able to shift from P to reverse, therefore not able to get to D. My steering wheel was not locked and I put my old ECU back in to make sure that wasnt the issue. I instead put the car in N then started and put in DRIVE. I drove around campus and realized the gauge was showing the car getting hot. Popped the hood to see the fans were not coming on. It was too late and dark so im going to start again tomorrow to see what the issue is. Possibly another fuse? But what would cause me to not be able to move the shift lever to R?

Help is appreciated. Thanks again for the advice.

 

Could this be related to the 15A fuse you removed to install in the #24 slot?

 

Lmao...I love RonJ@ht....and motegicivic

OP pulls his hair out....buys a ecu and relay..
and within 20 seconds of telling RonJ.... he knows its a fuse, and the exact location.

RonJ....your such an asset bro. You probably saved a good 100k of stealership money in your 19k + posts.

 

.......hum hum......I was first

 

The 15 I pulled was for stereo, cigarette lighter etc. Im going back to check the fuses, THOROUGHLY, today. It was too dark last night.

 

hahahaha

Kev

 

lol....yes, yes you were.

Ill be like toyota and issue a recall....and fix this!