I have been through a few issues in the last year with vibrations from what appears to be warped rotors. I've never dealt with brakes myself and let others do it but this is making me wonder what kind of parts they have been installing. After discussing with the manager I am told that parts are not made in the USA which he believes has a good bit to do with it, and that there are so many variables on what can cause warping that it is not surprising that it happens so often.

Here is a history on the rotors

3-9-2007 @ 76k
New front rotors and replaced ceramic pads $254

10-11-2010 @ 102k
Resurfaced front rotors $136
This seemed like a reasonable amount of time to pass before running into warping.

6-7-2011 @ 108k
Vibrations when braking
Replaced the front rotors since it had been turned too close before-was told that the pads were fine $132
This was so soon to the last turn it made me question quality.

9-27-2011 @ 111k
Vibrations when braking again-likely rotor warp.
Taking it in today to most likely have rotors turned.
Should be under warranty

Any ideas on whats the best course of action?

I saw this thread and even though it doesnt look easy I am wondering next time if I shouldnt just learn to install the rotors (maybe calipers?) myself.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...+accord+brakes

 

My ex had the same problem on her accord for a while (2000 lx V6). The only way it stopped was I had to replace all 4 rotors with high quality ones (I think they were legit Brembo blanks, not chinese knock offs), and finally drill into her head to stop beating the crap out of the car. If you're not hard on the brakes and don't ride them, you may have a caliper hanging up or the mechanic may not be lubricating the slide pins.

I've never had much luck with turning rotors, they always seem to warp quickly afterwards. A lot of companies like to make their rotors so they start out just above the service limit so as they wear, they wear below the limit and need to be replaced so they make more money. The thinner the rotor, the quicker it will warp.

You should definitely look into doing your own brakes, it looks intimidating at first but it's a really easy job and will save you a bit of money in the long run.

 

I agree with 98. Once they warp it's only a matter of time before they do it again. While 30k miles is on the low side of a service limit. My 95 Accord had 172k and I've only replaced mine once. The next time I do it will be be all 4 at the same time and with drilled and slotted replacements. They just seem to shed the heat allot better than the OEM's and you get the benefit of better braking too.

 

When you let down the wheel, barely let it touch the ground, just enough to hold the wheel when you tighten the lugs. Then torque to about 50 evenly on each lug in crisscross pattern. Then let the wheel the rest of the way down and torque to 76 evenly and in a crisscross pattern. Try to get it exact.

Then try not to let the rotors get too hot for the first 500 miles or so so the metal can expand and contract tight enough in that time to help prevent warping in the future. This means don't brake too hard and long in that time.

 

There are two factors that cause what is commonly referred to as rotor warp. As holmesnmanny pointed out, over torquing the wheel lugs can distort the disc on a rotor over hub design and give a strange pulsing or 'warped' feel to the rotors.

Cementite, a hard spot created from high temps and uneven material transfer, can be formed on the rotor from creating a hot spot on the rotor. Depending on how early you catch the pulsing you may be able to machine the rotor to remove the cementitie. This is not something that can be seen with the naked eye nor measured, as the hardness of the rotor in that area has changed. When pressure is applied during braking then you will feel the kick back through the pedal, and a shimmy through the steering wheel.

If the dealer is Honda, and replacing the rotors under warranty they are most likely Honda parts and should be fine. However you should verify that your brakes are bled and the rear brakes are correctly working.

If all this is fine then you may just need to change your braking habits.

 

+1 on that

I think the key is to have all brakes operating efficiently to help keep certain wheels from doing all the work, and the fronts usually do most of the work by way of the proportioning valve anyhow.

For those with brake shoes in the back. There is a trick to adjusting them. You can just pull the ebrake lock to unlock about 9 times in succession to help the adjuster tighten them. You can go in reverse and redo it just to make sure it does it since sometimes it won't adjust the first time. This a great technique imo.

 

Bleeding the brakes is practically a must when playing around with the brake system. Even if the lines aren't opened, air likes to magically appear (its not really magic, for clarification) in the lines, which can cause many issues. Its one of the easiest and cheapest jobs to do on a vehicle, so why not get it done just to make sure.