ITR suspension/braking regarding calipers/rotors and sways
Hi folks, got a few questions, wanted to see what everyone's thoughts are.
First all, let me start by saying the ITR is strictly a track (lapping) car. I'm not new to lapping as I've tracked a Prelude, RSX, S2000 before and now ITR. The s2000 was the only stockish car. While I do not compete and do not consider myself to be good, I do know what I like to feel in my car and like to make small/minor tweaks where possible.
I'm running 225/45/15 NT01 tires all around and am using Hawk DTC-70 pads up front and HPS in the rear along with Tein SRC (14k/20k) suspension.
First issue is, I'm going through rotors every 4-5 track days and would love to modulate a bit more. From everything I've read, what I should be doing is going with NA1 NSX calipers along with the 28T brackets and 94-95 Legend GS rotors. Is that strictly a plug and play solution (without needing shims or anything)? Assuming it is a plug and play solution, I'm assuming brake bias will move to the rear some since the total piston size is smaller, is that going to effect anything?
Second, I currently have stock USDM front and rear swaybars. On the tighter and slower tracks (and even some sweepers), the rear end does not want to rotate. Some have said to disconnect the front sway. So, my question is would a no front sway + 22mm rear sway have the same effect as a 23mm front sway + a 32mm rear sway (which I already have, just not installed)? I'm aware of the lift throttle snap oversteer issue. My RSX had no front sway plus a 27mm rear sway although that's an entirely different suspension geometry.
Thanks!
First all, let me start by saying the ITR is strictly a track (lapping) car. I'm not new to lapping as I've tracked a Prelude, RSX, S2000 before and now ITR. The s2000 was the only stockish car. While I do not compete and do not consider myself to be good, I do know what I like to feel in my car and like to make small/minor tweaks where possible.
I'm running 225/45/15 NT01 tires all around and am using Hawk DTC-70 pads up front and HPS in the rear along with Tein SRC (14k/20k) suspension.
First issue is, I'm going through rotors every 4-5 track days and would love to modulate a bit more. From everything I've read, what I should be doing is going with NA1 NSX calipers along with the 28T brackets and 94-95 Legend GS rotors. Is that strictly a plug and play solution (without needing shims or anything)? Assuming it is a plug and play solution, I'm assuming brake bias will move to the rear some since the total piston size is smaller, is that going to effect anything?
Second, I currently have stock USDM front and rear swaybars. On the tighter and slower tracks (and even some sweepers), the rear end does not want to rotate. Some have said to disconnect the front sway. So, my question is would a no front sway + 22mm rear sway have the same effect as a 23mm front sway + a 32mm rear sway (which I already have, just not installed)? I'm aware of the lift throttle snap oversteer issue. My RSX had no front sway plus a 27mm rear sway although that's an entirely different suspension geometry.
Thanks!
If the Legend rotors are a larger diameter, it may offset the smaller piston area of the NSX calipers. You would have to crunch numbers to figure out exactly which way your bias will go with the change. I wish I knew how to do it. I wonder if you can just compare percentages of piston area change to rotor diameter change? Probably too simple.
As for the sway-bar, disconnecting the front bar will not be exactly the same as adding a larger rear bar, but it should allow the rear to rotate more. The difference being you will also get a lot more roll in the front end. This should definitely allow the inside rear to lift, thereby reducing rear traction. You may not like the excess roll in the front, but you won't know till you try it. Be very careful when trying it out.
BTW: You only have to disconnect one end-link to disable the sway-bar. This should only take a minute to try at the track.
- Take off the bottom nut under the LCA
- Jack up the chassis on that corner till the end-link pops out of the arm
- Flip the end-link up and out of the way (probably best to tie it back to the bar)
- Throw the bushings and nut in your pocket and go drive
As for the sway-bar, disconnecting the front bar will not be exactly the same as adding a larger rear bar, but it should allow the rear to rotate more. The difference being you will also get a lot more roll in the front end. This should definitely allow the inside rear to lift, thereby reducing rear traction. You may not like the excess roll in the front, but you won't know till you try it. Be very careful when trying it out.
BTW: You only have to disconnect one end-link to disable the sway-bar. This should only take a minute to try at the track.
- Take off the bottom nut under the LCA
- Jack up the chassis on that corner till the end-link pops out of the arm
- Flip the end-link up and out of the way (probably best to tie it back to the bar)
- Throw the bushings and nut in your pocket and go drive
The legend rotors are the same diameter just 5mm thicker for more heat resistance.
Another question.. Spoon calipers are direct bolt ons for the 23T brackets but will the spoon calipers fit on a 28T (NSX) brackets?
Another question.. Spoon calipers are direct bolt ons for the 23T brackets but will the spoon calipers fit on a 28T (NSX) brackets?
The spoon calipers definetly bolt onto the knuckle.
You probably won't be able to use the Legend rotors with the Spoon calipers because they'd be 5mm too thick, but someone else is going to have to confirm with that.
You probably won't be able to use the Legend rotors with the Spoon calipers because they'd be 5mm too thick, but someone else is going to have to confirm with that.
Perhaps the mono-blocks spoon calipers for the S2000 can accomidate the fatter rotor? I don't know. They are a PITA to bleed though on an Integra since the bleed ports would face down. You have to un-bolt the caliper and slide/rotate it around the rotor so the bleed port is pointing up again. I think the mono blocks have smaller pistons similar to the nsx caliper. I think the twin-blocks have the same piston area as the stock ITR caliper.
Hmm sounds like too much trouble. I guess I'll stick with the NSX calipers on the 28T brackets and Legend rotors for now. Thanks!
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