Hey H-t. i've been lurking this section for a while. I finally finished my mild setup and got it dyno tuned. But, I was not impressed with my numbers. My goal was 290-300whp reliably, daily.

internally stock b20b
precision 450cc injectors
2.5in intercooler piping
tial wastegate with 10lb spring
hks bov
ebay 50 trim turbo
ebay intercooler
blox cast iron manifold
walbro fuel pump

this setup made 230whp @ 10psi. I dont have my dyno sheets infront of me so I can not provide the tq number. According to the tuner, I didnt have a boost leak and he blames the ebay turbo for the low #s.

What can i do to make as close to 300whp without worrying about sleeve problems

 

is it a t3/t4 style 50trim? do you have any other specs on the turbo, like compressor wheel size?

either way, i think 300whp is a high goal for a non-vtec motor. 250-260 might be more realistic

 

your right, 230 is a bit low for 10psi turbo, and i would agree with the tuner that the ebay turbo is probably not properly matched to the engine, you should take a look at precision turbo's.

 

yes it is a t3/t4 style. Sorry but I dont have any other specs on the turbo.

In ny i had tuners tell me that 280whp was a realistic goal. Either they just wanted business from me or they were lying, having seen my setup in person.

 

Up the boost or switch fuel for more power. I agree with the turbo causing the low numbers also. And I think 300 is high for stock b20.

 

honestly it doesnt seem too far low.

isnt that b20b the low compression motor?> that would not help out in the power making department.

i mean i had an ls turbo make 240hp with a 57 trim.

with that motor with oem cams and manifolds, as well as that 50 trim you were not going to make 300hp on 10 psi, realistically it would be closer to 15 psi

 

It all depends on how efficient the whole set up is that means turbo sizing, turbo manifold, intercooler, intake manifold, exhaust size and how it flows ect. my honda crv with a stock b20 made 315 hp at 11psi

 

To be completely honest, I forgot exactly what size the turbo is. I will take a look tomorrow because I'm not sure whether it's a 50,57,or 60 trim.

More specs:
No mbc
2.5in exhaust (I know, I bet I need a 3in)
Intercooler is the same size as the one in the turbo step by step thread..or a little smaller

Edit: I would post the dyno video but I'm not sure how to upload it from my iphone

 

plug it in to comp, open the phone under my comp, find video, copy/cut to desktop.. youtube.com and ur good

 

3in dp and exhaust and a better flowing manifold would help. It has a lot to do with flow. I dont think ebay turbo would matter. It is a little small though. i made 364 stock internal gsr with a 60-1 @ 10psi godspeed turbo.

 

the non vtec turbo cams im selling would also help lol

 

Old Setup-

B20b
T3/T4 57 trim 63ar @ 15psi
Turboedit on 450s w/ 190lhp pump
2.5in piping
terrible 3in dp
Lovefab log mani
JRC 6in tall FMIC
Dyno'd @277hp /253trq on 91 oct.

Your numbers might be a bit low but I think that the tune might be the main issue and some more boost should net you the #s your looking for a dd. I made it to 15k boosted before I cracked a sleeve and that was because of my FPR... long story. Tune on 91 and run 93 and it will hold together for a long time and it is A LOT of fun.

 

Yea or u can just pull out 1 to 2 degrees timing and then bring the afr down to low 11 at the end of the dyno session. The street tends to put a lil more load on the engine so you should come off the dyno nice and safe.

 

Your tuner is a retard. Ive built and tuned numerous b18a-b setups with cheap egay **** that have put down 280-300 dyno whp easily with stock fuel pressure and mitsu 450's. Go somewhere else and turn up the boost. 12-15 psi from any of those ching chonger turbos with a decent tune on your setup will net you right around 300.

 

!st, i wouldnt put no more then 250WHP on a stock B20 block..

I think the tune and numbers were pretty much spot on. The specs for that block are around 130hp at the crank. If you got to 230, then your crank is close to 260. So your double the range at only 10 lbs.

I have a B20 on boost and im at 234/223 and its plenty of power for me on the street. But that was my goal.

You can turn up the boost, get 650cc injectors, use a boost selonoid to boost higher then the 10lb spring. You probably have some boost creep which will also hurt your numbers. you can turn up the boost but i wouldn't.

but like i said, without any rod bolts, pushing over 250whp on a stock block will eventually tear itself apart. B20's arent balanced to well from factory cuz 98% were made for low revving automatics.

Edit: For the low revving B20, the 50 or 57 trim is the perfect size for this set up. If you go larger, it will spool later. Having a higher spool with a low redline engine isnt efficient. Other factors like huge intercoolers, restrictive exhaust, etc will effect spool timing.


If you want to reach more power, then youll have to dig deeper in your pocket.

Straight exhaust, better IM, bigger injectors, blah blah.. will get you more power, but if you neglect the bottom end, it will all be for nothing.

 

Crap *** ebay turbo, enough said lol

if you want to make real numbers, get a real turbo. the ebay turbos only make good numbers when you run a huge one otherwise these smaller un its just dont cut it. there is No R&D in these turbos there just hacked together plain and simple.

i ran an ebay "57" trim back in the day and it turned out to measure up to a 46 trim t04b and at 15 psi only made 300whp on my LS with cams. That speaks for its self i think...

a REAL 57 trim at 15 psi would easily break 300whp especially with cams

 

true, get a real 50/57 trim

theyre all over the place for around 600 bucks.

stay away from cheap ebay knock off garbage.

 

i can now confirm that it is a ebay 57trim.
l am currently not working and back at college so this setup will have to last until spring before i can change anything.
Can rod bolts be changed without taking the rods out? if so then this will be my next upgrade after i get a MBC, but if not, i am not sure what to do. what if the turbo isnt exactly my problem. and to hit the 250-300whp range, should i upgrade to a ramhorn manifold or leave the cast iron?

 

I would, Im at 293whp/223tq. stock eternal b20 vtec, red line set at 8K, so far so good! Going to give more psi in her and look for 350+......

 

b20's are non vtec, but even non vtec 250 is what i would expect out of that, the turbo just isnt sized right

 

hp is to low.bigger injectors same turbo better tuner and ur good for over 250. my first setup.
stock b20b
skunk2 im
440 delphi injectors
.57 trim ebay turbo
tial wg 10 psi spring
3'' dp and exhaust
this setup made 243hp

new setup
same motor and im
rc 750 incjectors
boostflow ramhorn
.70 ebay turbo
same exhaust and dp
hondata s300
this made 280hp at 12.5 psi.

 

so according to your old setup, i am loosing approx 20whp because im running a 2.5in exhaust instead of a 3in ?! Does that make sense? That is the only difference between mine and yours other than the sk2 manifold.

 

Exactly, you can not tell HP from PSI either, I am starting to see a lot of that on here and other forums. Does that ebay turbo have a flow chart? Besides that scan in a few dyno sheets that show your A/F and TQ numbers. 230whp is not a bad number but again a dyno sheet would be great.

 

Flow will help especially on a manifold. Back pressure is ok, its neutral unless you are really pushing that 350-400 mark. I would suggest anything over 250 whp to move into a 3" exhaust system. Remember to little back pressure will only hurt the motor not help. The other big factor with an exhaust is being able to move the heat away from the motor which I think most people forget about.

 

For one....non vtec, two.....stock bottom end, three......stock head. Im running 2.5 inch exhaust on my car making 432hp 16psi 93 octane and stock sleeves and I dont think its the ebay turbo either its your whole setup. Why would you boost a stock motor?

432hp 16psi on pump gas tune
513hp 369torque 25psi on race gas tune
Race gas tune: 9.97@147