Greetings.

I have a 2000 civic lx with a seeping oil-pan gasket. I'm planning to replace it asap before MN winter kicks in. It looks like I'll need to remove the exhaust pipe from the manifold, in order to get the oil-pan off. The "book" suggests that I replace the exhaust gasket(s) when re-installing the pipe. I ordered a replacement gasket (which took 10days to arrive) but there was only 1 gasket in there. Am I wrong in believing that I need 2? If so, I don't know why they wouldn't come as a set, but I don't want to get it all taken apart and find out I need another part that's gonna take 10days to get!

Thank you!

 

If there in good condition when you remove them they can be reused

 

On my 97 Civic DX, I have replaced those gaskets once during the life of the car, but I generally don't replace them when exhaust pipe A is removed.

 

Thanks for the advice. I don't mind replacing them, as long as I got it all taken apart—she has about 120K mile. But I infer from your responses that there ARE "2" gaskets?

 

I believe the gasket on the manifold side is an hollow aluminum crush ring, whereas the one on the muffler side is a larger solid malleable gasket.

 

Okay, thanks! The single aluminum ring is what I got. From the Haynes book (which covers different engines—mine is D16Y7), it looked like I might need 2 of the crush-rings.

 

As you can see, the front gasket (part 11) is different from the rear gasket (part 20).

 

Thank you very much for the schematic, RonJ. I discern, now (since I have an LX) then I should be looking at not the "11" front gasket, but rather the set of 2 "10" front gaskets. This clears things up perfectly. I will order another part#10 crush-ring before I get started.

Muchas gracias!

 

The diagram is confusing as it shows both DX/LX and EX exhaust systems. Your LX has the part 11 and part 20 gaskets, not the EX part 10 (X2) and part 21 gaskets.

 

OK. Thanks again. Please forgive my foolishness. I'm nothing but a 'shade-tree mechanic.' I'm planning to get this job done this weekend. Trying to teach my 11yo son a little something about cars. He helped me replace the radiator in this car a couple weeks ago. He can definitely understand the value of one ($80) part versus $550 paid to the dealer. That's enough to buy a lot of LEGOs. Ha ha. Anyway, I'll post again as to the outcome. Appreciate your patience!

 

You are sooo lucky with your son. My two boys have zero interest in learning about cars, despite the fact that I have much to offer them in knowledge. I presume that once they own a car and realize the cost of maintenance, their interest will come to life.

 

@bdazzled

Order the a set of 2 bolts and nuts (24) ...most likely you will end up wrecking them if they are rusted ...I bet the gasket (20) is toast as well. All these parts are cheap $20 in total. The metal doughnut gasket at the cat is about $10.

I would also inspect the A pipe before starting work; they like to rust through at the hanger welds.Unfortunately, the pipe is about $70.

 

@RonJ! I'm very lucky. It's fun to have an enthusiastic helper. My dad was good with cars, but let's just say he wasn't a very good teacher. Even though there were plenty of 'teaching moments' with my '78 Plymouth Volare.' Yikes! LOL. I'm looking fwd to getting this done this weekend.

@Ci-v-iC: Thanks for the tip. I will check those out again. I think they (#24—spring-loaded connecting bolts as I recall) looked pretty good, as did the pipe itself. Not a lot of rust down there that I could see (knock-knock-knock!) But I'm going out right now to lift 'er up and do a last run-through and inventory before I get started.

You guys rock!

 

Update: Found some rust after all. I'm very happy to have removed all the exhaust components without breaking anything. Sprayed all the connectors with WD40 (I know, ghetto) and let them soak overnight. The manifold bolts scared me some, cause they were *in there*! Replaced flange-bolts. Had to go back to O'Reilly and return special-order donut-gasket. They had given me one for EX. :-( Got the right one—perfect fit.

I removed the oil pan, after taking off the bracket on the transmission-housing (engine stiffener?) It wasn't hard—only 4 bolts—but not in the 'book' procedure.

Big surprise: Taking off the old rubber oil-pan gasket took me almost 40min! With a heat-gun and razor. I'm sure there's a quicker way, but I didn't know what. It was a beeyatch!

Here's the part you guys will get a laugh out of: I was putting the oil-pan back on late Sunday eve. My wife was 'helping' me by handing me nuts & bolts while I was underneath the car. Well, one of them wouldn't snug, and eventually I drew it back out (broken halfway down the shaft) and discovered she had handed me one of the 10mm plastic splash-guard bolts! With my gloves on, I just didn't feel the difference at the time. So I had to pull those out the next day by drilling a pilot hole, then hammering a phillips-head screwdriver in, till I could back out the (2) plastic bolt segments up in there.

Anyway: done for now. Thanks again for all your help.