Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

E-brake stuck

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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 06:19 PM
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cmbicycles's Avatar
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Default E-brake stuck

I have a 2000 accord ex 4cyl sedan. The drivers side rear parking brake sticks. I can release it by reaching under the car and pushing back the lever on the brake caliper where the e-brake cable attaches. It looks like the cam that applies the brake can just be pulled out (at least on the caliper diagram in my repair manual) though I doubt it is that easy, otherwise it could just fall out. Any help is greatly appreciated. Is it difficult to disassemble the caliper and repair/replace that part, or is it more cost effective to replace the whole caliper?
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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 10:04 PM
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From: 94577/Gaillimh
Default Re: E-brake stuck

Deja-Vu!!!
Re: Stuck E-Brake on 2003 Honda Accord
Although on the '00 model the parts are numbered 8-18-19-10-17-9-26-15-14. And those would have to be removed before 13/25.

Four things could be happening.
1. External spring(23/31) on lever is broken/missing.
2. Parking Brake cable is seizing up.
3. Shaft is corroded and binding up, soak with PB blaster.
4. The internal adjuster is jamming, preventing smooth operation.

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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 10:55 AM
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Default Re: E-brake stuck

The spring is intact, and the lever doesn't release when I disconnect the brake cable. I tried soaking the shaft w/ penetrant... but it seems to half slide out of the caliper now rather than sitting up inside. So I am assuming part 13/25 needs replaced. I looked at the MR2 website you listed on the other question. Am I correct in assuming based on that MR2 website, that to replace 13/25 on this caliper it is likewise somewhat involved, and requires some special tools? Best to buy a reman-caliper?
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 07:02 PM
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Default Re: E-brake stuck

Originally Posted by cmbicycles
Am I correct in assuming based on that MR2 website, that to replace 13/25 on this caliper it is likewise somewhat involved, and requires some special tools? Best to buy a reman-caliper?
It is a bit involved, and can be a bit messy. But the biggest hangup is if you do not have a decent set of circlip pliers to remove the circlips. It's more or less, are you half *** interested in futzing with the caliper, or would you rather just get it fixed. If the later, just get a reman'd unit and be done with it.

BTW which 'penetrant' are you using? WD40 is pretty lightweight, you need PB Blaster or Kroil if there is some decent corrosion on the spring/shaft. Regardless if the internal adjuster is seized, the spring should be able to rotate the lever back.
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