I am currently in the market for a 00-01 GSR, and as I've been browsing classifieds and craigslist, I've been wondering what are some obvious things to watch out for? There are of course the obvious warnings when buying a used car in general (bad/no title, check engine lights, etc.), but what about Integra/Honda specific no-nos? Anything specific I should look for or test when I go to see the car?

I've been told to keep an eye out for high mileage cars that haven't had certain key parts replaced, like the water pump, timing belt, head gasket, etc. Are there other common issues along a similar vein?

Thanks!

 

Same thing you would look for when buying any used car.

 

What mouab18c1 said. Just make sure everything works fine and you should be good to go.

 

When you show up to see the car and talk business, ask if you can start the car then just leave it running for 10 minutes. While your doing that knock on the body panels to hear for signs of filler/bodywork. A/c p/s is a must. Depending where you live your gonna wanna peak under the car for any rust developing ect. A leakdown/compression test would be ideal but not very practical.

But overall, I say just take a good mechanic with you.

 

i have a 2001 integra db8 its been a great car i jus did a type r conversion but i need help with headlight wiring

 

^ random. https://honda-tech.com/forums/lighting-107/how-jdm-itr-hid-headlight-fog-light-wiring-2195061/ there you go

 

excessive oil burning {meaning more than 1qt per 1k miles}, check the plugs for oil residue, do a compression test and see all 4 over 180psi when warm and the TB open. make sure you unhook the distributor when you do the compression test or you'll fry the coil

 

Take it on a really long test drive and test it out in different conditions. Highway driving/ stop and go traffic while listening for any unusual noises.

 

Look for rust starting at the rear wheel arches, common problem on a number of Honda/Acura, if you get the car, remove the wheel arch "protector", #10... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal it does not "protect" anything, it holds dirt and moisture up against the arch lip sheet metal and the rust will start there.

If your lucky enough to find one that has not already started rusting, remove the protector, [toss in trash] clean the arch lip real good and spray with Rust Bullet, and a layer of rubberized undercoat.

As for the rest of the car, spent the $50-$100 a mechanic would charge to go over the car with a fine tooth comb, he will find any problems that need addressing and the ones that need addressing right away, a list of those is a good bargaining tool, better to spend $100 now then to find out you need to spend $1000 later.

If a seller will not let you take the car to "your" mechanic, walk away, he is hiding something. 94

 

All right, cool. Thanks a lot, everyone. I'm going to check out another one this Sunday. I'll bring my brother with me, who is a bit more experienced with these sorts of things, and we'll see if the guy will let us run a compression test then take it for a spin. I'll keep all that in mind.

 

Run all VIN numbers against various insurance sites to make sure the motor isn't stolen or something.

 

Ditto that.

 

I'd say 1 quart every 3k is already on the edge of excessive; a quart every 1k miles would make me think the motor is on it's death bed.

On that note, make sure all the body panels have the the VIN stickers as well. That's an easy way to check for accidents that didn't show up on Carfax.