Okay, I found this motor browsing Craigslist, and am curious if it will fit in my '92 Prelude. http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/2568589136.html From the bit of research I have done, I think it's a J30A. I messed up the motor in my car, and am just looking for a cheap replacement for the time being.

Any help at all will be greatly appreciated, I miss driving my car D:

Update, the seller has said it's a J30A1.

 

You can make it fit in a Prelude ... it's not a drop in affair though

 

What all would I have to do, and any idea what transmission I would need, or if the transmission in my car would work for it? I'm not sure what tranny it is, but it's bolted up to an F22B1.

 

LMAO!!

This is the motor people use to make honda crx drag cars.

People will say anything to sell stuff these days ...

That's a bald faced misrepresentation ...

FYI look at the CRX FAQ, under motor swaps, look for J-series ...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/88-91-crx-ef-civic-frequently-asked-questions-faqs-1508680/

After further research, there is anecdotal evidence that it's been done in a 5th gen once or twice, but I haven't seen any real info on dropping a J-series into a 4G.

Its also OBD2, and there aren't any common OBD1 solutions for running a V6 Honda.

If you search, you'll find lots of evidence against doing this particular swap, and not much for it. There's no real performance benefit, in fact you would be adding weight and not getting any horsepower for it over an H22 which is a cheap drop in swap.

In the end, this swap, if you could make it happen, would most likely cost you a lot more than an H-swap

 

Lol, well thanks a lot man. I'll stick with finding an H22 or an F22b1. What would you recommend anyway..? an H22 or the F22B1? Sorry.. this is my first Honda, but I really love it and want to stick with it.

 

Here ...

F20B long block $849

H22 long block $999

H23A VTEC $1100

Any of these are valid drop in swaps, requiring minimal modification to your car or wiring, you can use your existing tranny with any of these swaps, but you'll need an OBD1 P13 ECU or a chipped Honda ECU with an H22 base map, like a P28 or a P72. The H22 setup will run the F20B and the H23A VTEC as well.

The difference between these motors is the displacement and compression ratio, and thus the torque numbers. They all create right about 200HP, they just create a bit more torque as the displacement goes up. I believe they are all the same block with the only real difference being the crank for changing the displacement and the pistons for changing the compression ratio.

 

Are you sure you have an F22B1?

That's an Accord single cam VTEC motor, not a stock Prelude motor.

For a 92 you should have an F22A1 or an H23A1, there was no H22 available in the US until 93. You should Google images of these motors and figure out what you have.

 

Yes, I am sure. I've looked into it a bit, and the block has the 'F22B1' on it, and the head has a VTEC solenoid. But it's not hooked up, go figure. I bought it from a 'shady' party, so I figure it was a swap for a blown stock motor? Anyway, I've been having trouble with it and just want to get it running again, as said I really love it and don't want to get rid of it.

 

I updated my previous post to include the H23A VTEC motor as an option.

What kind of trouble are you having with your F22?

How much mechanical experience do you have, are you comfortable working on your own car? A lot of the time with a Honda you're not going to have internal motor problems, and especially with a swapped motor, you're more likely to have a wiring problem or a sensor problem.

If your VTEC solenoid isn't hooked up, I would suspect that you still have an F22A1 ECU in your car, which would be a P14. You can get at it by pulling up the carpet on the passenger side and unbolting the kick plate. It will be sitting right there.

If you have a P14 ECU, you probably have injector sizing issues. The non-VTEC F22A1 wouldn't need as large of injectors as a VTEC version of the same motor, so you're probably running rich, you'll have a strong gas smell in your exhaust.

 

I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, I've already tore down the motor and replaced the timing belt, as I figured it had slipped time.. But for some reason, it's only running on 1 and 4, that I can see. and I think this because I can tell it's misfiring, I pull the wires off of the spark plugs 1 by 1, on cylinder 1, the motor bogs down, on 2, nothing happens, on 3, nothing happens, and on 4 the motor bogs down. I've already replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, coil, and injectors.. I have no clue what else it could be.

 

I forgot to add, it all ran fine for two-three weeks after buying it, then one day I pulled up to a stop light and it just died. Earlier that day I could tell it was missing out. Also, it will stay running while it is cold, but once it reaches 'operating temperature' (the temp. gauge is halfway) you can rev it, but then when it goes to idle down, it just dies.

 

Wait, you think the timing belt slipped? Check the compression. Depending on if/how far it slipped, you could have bent a couple valves.

 

I did do a compression test, it came up to about 150 on all four cylinders.

 

Do you have spark/fuel on the weak cylinders?

 

Yes I do.

 

Do you have any CELs?

 

One, for the MAP sensor..which I replaced.

Anyway, http://kansascity.craigslist.org/pts/2539139332.html would that be able to go in my car?

 

Okay, I just went to check the codes again, and the same one came up. How do I reset the ECU?

 

That will drop into your existing motor mounts.
You will need
Your F22B wiring harness
OBD1 P13 ECU or chipped P72 [or other IAB aware ECU for the dual runners]
Either an OBD1 distributor or modify the wiring for the crank and cam sensors

This is considered an easy to medium difficulty swap. Easy because it mechanically drops right in, a bit harder because some extra wiring is needed beyond a normal swap, because of the OBD2 distributor.

If you want to do this, do a timing belt and the H23 tensioner conversion while its out. Optionally, do a balance shaft delete too, it removes a belt on the crank to free up some HP and better throttle response/acceleration.

Kaizenspeed.com sells the H23 conversion as a kit and the balance shaft delete kit.

 

Disconnect the battery for a few minutes.

 

Alright, cool. whenever this guy decides to reply to my emails, I'll hopefully go pick it up :D

 

Any idea where I can find a write up on an engine swap, beings it's my first?

 

I say if you are not in a hurry to make it run, go g22 vtec since you already have the f22b1. Just need a h22 head which goes for less then $300 at times.

If you are in a hurry and looking for more power. Go h22a. It's a drop in motor. H23 vtec and f20b vtec, you will have to swap parts around. I suggest going JDM h22a or h22a1. You wouldn't need a transmission either because you can use your f22b1 transmission. Long gears, but better then nothing.

I also do have an accord trans, and hitting 14.4 all day at the track stock!

 

Well, no matter with what VTEC I go with, which I know I want a VTEC, I'm going to have to swap ECU and wiring harnesses. As I checked my ECU today, and it's a P14. and my VTEC Solenoid isn't hooked up, so I imagine I need the wiring harness as well.

As far as being in a hurry, I kinda am. My Lude is my baby, and I miss it D: lol.

 

P14 is a non-VTEC ECU it won't recognize the solenoid or pressure switch even if you wire it up. When you get a VTEC ECU, you just run three wires through the firewall and pin them into the new ECU.

H22 swap write ups should be in the FAQ sticky somewhere ... G22 build ups are time consuming, and require a lot of different parts from different motors, they're good for building a turbo setup. H23 VTEC builds are fairly simple, you swap an H23 or F22 crank and rods into the H22 block to build a higher compression stroker motor. The F20B is a drop in swap, you should be able to find a write up on the wiring by searching the forum pretty quickly.