Ok so I just got this car...had a BHG and needed back brakes and a clutch. After many estimates at various auto repair shops i decided to take this project on myself having some help from a friend

1. dropped the engine out of the car
2. remove the transmission and install new cluch
3. remove exhaust and intake man...took most of this apart and cleaned it
4. remove head and gasket, cean and hone block
5. install new head w/ new bolts
6. intall new water pump and timing belts
7. adjust valves
8. new fuel filter, oil filter
8. new plug wires
10. new brake shoes
11. bleed clutch and brakes

yes ive been working on this every day for the last 12 days straight

10. Engine back into the car...put every thing back together

turn the key and it turns over but is not starting

1. have spark
2. tried engine starting fluid and nothing
3. no coolant in the car

i feel like it could be so many things i dont even know where to start

 

Check the grounds.

Does the Check Engine Light come on for 2 seconds and then shut off when you try to start the car or does it not even come on? If it doesn't even come on, this may indicate a ground issue.

 

yes CEL comes on for a couple seconds then goes out

 

Check this ground in particular.

 

it is there but in between a bracket...hard to explain but that ground is attatched also with another thing that holds some wires or maybe a hose?

 

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...=THROTTLE+BODY

# 17 is also bolted here...could this be the problem?

 

Have you check to make sure timing is 100% dead on? I know you used starting fluid but are you sure your getting gas into the cylinder? Check for compression? Fuel pressure? Left something disconnected? Recheck each connection main sensors essential for start up

 

I am not 100% sure on the timing, all the marks line up but not sure if i did the tensioning correct... this is all a first for me also i could smell fuel coming from the cylinders when i turnded it over w/out the spark plugs...will check the other things tomorrow (have to go buy a compression tester) how do i check fuel pressure?? all connections are good as far as i see and feel i spent over an hour just stairing and feeling all over

 

If your getting fuel I wouldnt worry about pressure. So you have spark n fuel should start. Sounds more like a loose or a connection broke somewhere. Was the harness carefully tucked before removing engine? No connections got pulled during engine removal? Does it sound like it wants to start? Did the car run when you baught it?

 

could i check for trouble codes or does the CEL need to be on?

 

You could have some stored codes from the previous owner. Not a bad idea to check. Also no need to buy compression tester your local autozone rents them out. Get your money back when you return it. Remember when doimg a copmression test throttle has to be fully open.

 

Line up the marks on the t-belt #1 at TDC. Be sure the dist rotor is pointing to #1 wire....and that it is going to #1 cyl (1-3-4-2). Just want to be sure the wires are on correctly.

 

i will check all the connections again... if i am correct on what the harness is...it was removed w/ the engine (bolts to the bottom of the intake) yes the car ran before this project...was very carfull and made sure nothing got pulled during removal. i had to replace the temp sensor on the head and a fan switch at the thermo housing as my friend broke them while disconnecting....i guess they were just old...it acts like im out of fuel but there is plenty in the tank

 

Ok, have you sprayed carb/tb cleaner into the TB-open buttery fly and give it a shot or two, then crank?

 

Cant remember if its honda obdII that has a prevention system for a temp sensor not working=no start? Or is it another make im thinking about?

 

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...=THROTTLE+BODY

are you talking about #22 air temp sensor??? i did not remove this when i cleaned the intake...would the air intake claner damage it?

 

how do i check this sesor???

 

Only way is to change it.

 

Temp sensor will not cause a no start issue, don't even bother wasting your time checking that.

Did you check compression yet? What were the results?

Are you getting spark from all four spark plug wires or just one?

Are the spark plug wires on in the correct order?

Are you getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail and/or filter?

If you're getting fuel pressure, grab an injector node tester and see if your injectors are being commanded on. If you don't have a node tester, then pull the entire fuel rail off and have someone else crank the car over while you look to see if the injectors are spraying.

Those are pretty much the basics you need to check first before doing anything else.

 

ok i am going to do these things asap (bought the compression tester today)...if i did the valves wrong would it cause no start??? if so i think that is the culprate...watched ETCG video on youtube and see i did it wrong

 

Today I got a honda 96 aaccord dude did his timing belt a week ago since then has been replacing parts. Heres what I saw n heard. When cranking sounded like a weak starter as not getting enough power took oil cap off cam was turnimg. Guy replaced dizzy. Cap rotor wires plugs cam lot of sensors coils igniters 2 ecu's batt. Batt. Cables. Main relay ignition switch nuetural safety switch . to get no start stil. He was getting fuel n spark. Checked timing way off.redid timing n started at first crank took a while becuz he bent valves trying to start it. He said timing was dead on when he put the engine back in. guess he did the tension wrong n skipped. causing bent valves n no start. Might want to check your timing again. Make sure it didnt skip.

 

Ok so here i am back at square one!

today i re-did the valves and fixed the plug wires (were wrong) and she started right up!!!

then....i filled the cooling system with water so i could do a fulsh....started the car and OMG!!! a GIESER of water is shooting out of the radiator!!!! and now i have steam and water coming out of the exhaust. THE PROBLEM IS WORSE! TELL ME WHAT I DID WRONG???

 

 

Head gasket or warped/cracked head also could have torqued the head wrong in sequence or just didnt torque it enough or to little. If you did wrong torque sequence you bend the head. You have to torque the head in three steps.

 

Do a leakdown test before anything else.

It's better to rent the tool from autozone instead of buying it like you did with the compression tester. If you don't have an air compressor, it might be worth it to run down to a mechanic shop and pay them the $50-$60 they charge to do a leakdown test for you.

The leakdown test will pinpoint the exact problem so that you don't go changing unneccessary items.