Hubby is away & I'm trying to get this fixed while he's gone. Could you guys help me trouble shoot?

I have a 1993 Honda Accord that has a sporadic blower motor. Works, then it doesn't, then it works, then no power. Now not working at all. I've checked the fuse and it is fine. My plan is to change out the blower motor & resistor by following these directions.

My plan is to get it apart (just to make sure I can do it) & then order the parts. Am I on the right track?

Thanks!
Donna

 

Should be fine, usually simple to get it out. I got an Aftermarket One, and after two years it failed. I also had to re-wire it to fit the aftermarket connector.

If you can get the Honda one, i'd advise it. google: Majestic Honda. Great prices on Honda Parts.

 

Thanks. I am always a bit nervous changing out parts when I'm not 100% sure what it is. Hopefully I'm right. The blower is not cheap.
I appreciated your input.

 

Sounds like you're on the right track.

 

Now the blower is working, but intermitently and with reduced power. I drove it today to get a 10mm socket. What about just changing out the resistor??

Thanks!

 

It probably still is the motor, usually due to worn brushes in the motor. With worn brushes, the motor may work at times and not be very powerful; eventually not working at all.

 

Ok. *sigh* Thanks.

Nuther stupid question. The motor from Rock Auto is $80 less than Majestic but has no plug. I can't rewire it, hubby can do basic wiring work with wire nuts & such. Is that all there is to rewiring it? Using wire nuts or should I wait to order the motor till I check to see if hubby can do the wiring? Sorry for the dumb questions. I'm sure you are rolling your eyes. LOL

 

Due to a lot of vibration, etc. inside a vehicle while driving, wire nuts usually are not recommended to do auto electrical connections. One of the best methods would probably be to solder the wire and insulate the exposed wire with heat shrink tubing; however, not everyone has the soldering tools and basis skills to solder. So, we move on to would probably will work for you.

An alternative would be get a different type of terminal connectors (e.g. butt connectors, etc.) where you would inserts the wires in each end of the terminal and crimp with a crimping tool. Look for an insulated type to prevent shorts if the wire touches another exposed wire or metal ground contact. Uninsulated types can be insulated by adding heat shrink tubing. Since, the blower motor is inside the car, the wire connection are not exposed to weather or moisture, so a basic insulated terminal would work. With most connections, you will still have to strip a little bit of the wire insulation off to insert into the terminals. There are some connectors made by some companies such as 3M where you don't even have to strip any insulation off the wire and place the two wires in the connector and squeeze down a small metal clip in between to make the connection. These connectors may not be the best connections; but , they will work for the most part. Be aware that if you use a butt connector, if not crimped well, the wire can easily be pull right back out.

You need to get the right size terminal connector for the wire thickness. Search on the internet, go to an auto part store or Walmart and you will see different connectors.

These are not stupid questions. Good luck.

 

Ok. That sounds easy enough to figure out.
Like this right?

It might be good to have for future jobs too.

THank you! I'll let you know how it goes when it's done. Praying it works!!

 

Something like that would work.

The following are butt connectors. You insert one end of the wire (stripped) into one end, crimp it with a crimping tool, then insert the other wire (stripped) into the other end and crimp.

http://www.google.com/search?q=butt+...w=1920&bih=909

This other link are some of the 3M connectors where you do not need to strip the insulation off the wire. Place both wires in the connector and squeeze with a pair of pliers (don't even need the regular crimping tool).

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...beVB2NDGZBTHgl

These are all available in small economical packs at auto parts stores , Walmart, etc.

 

Here's another link showing a larger pic. of the 3M instant auto-electric connector. You insert the two wires, then squeeze that metal clip with a pair of pliers, then close the plaster cover. You just need the correct size connector depending on the thickness (gauge) of the blower motor wires.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlok-A.../dp/B0002BFZ7U

 

That is even better! We do have the splicer tool, but no heat gun. With the 3m we don't need the heat gun though.

Does it look like this package has two of what I need? Lower left corner?

 

Or do I have to wait to match the wire size?

Opps, sorry, didn't see your above post.

 

That set in the link should take care of most wiring jobs, since you already have the crimping tool. You do not need a heat gun with that set, as there is no heat shrink tubing in it or necessary. The set looks like it has two small 3M instant auto-electric connector; but, those may be too small depending on the thickness of the blower motor wires. Regardless, some of the other connectors in the set will do the job.

If you only want to buy the 3M instant auto-electric connectors, then you need to know the thickness (gauge) of the blower motor wire first.

 

Ok. I've got it. Thank you so much. I'm not a motor head, but I can follow directions. I've changed out an oil pump on our old jeep with nothing more than phone directions from my dad. LOL. Thanks again! I may be back...

 

Parts are here, assembly is out. One other stupid question.

The wires on the old & new motors are not the same colors. The old motor has a yellow wire with black stripe & a blue wire with a red stripe. Which one is the positive?? Anyone know??????

Thank you.

 

YEL/BLK should be the + wire

 

Thank you. Is that a standard?? yellow & black mean pos?

 

That is not a universal standard. It is based on the electrical circuit in the Honda service manual.

 

aahhh. Great. Thanks!

The questions never end for me I guess. It's turning into a long term project. How do you get the fans off the ends of the motor posts? I don't want to break them, but I took off the little clips & nothing is budging.
Thanks... again. :\

 

After you removed the retaining clips, spray some lubricant like WD-40, support the cage and then use a hammer and punch to drive the shaft out of the fan cage. Center punches come in various size, you need one to fit the shaft area; but, not larger than the shaft, as you don't want to break part of the fan cage. You can find center punches at Target, Walmart, home improvement stores for a couple of bucks.

http://www.hondaaccordforum.com/foru...acement-10883/

 

Ok. I'll give it a bit more encouragement. *fingers crossed I don't break it*
Thanks!

 

Here is a illustration of the procedure. If you don't have 2 boards lying around, you could even try 2 books, etc. Good luck and let us know.

 

It worked! But afraid it did crack a tiny bit on one side. It works great now except a noise on high speed. I'll get a new fan at some point but at least it's working!! Thanks so much for everyones help!!

 

Congrats! Glad it worked out and you did it yourself.