For anybody who has been following my threads, there probably getting pretty annoyed by now at my indecisiveness, but ive finally picked my build and im sticking to it, just want some input.

Gsr block bored 82mm (have)
Ls crank/rods arp rod bolts shotpeened acl bearings etc (have)
Pr3 replica pistons 82mm (have)
Gsr head shaved 15 thousandths
Oem headgasket bored to 82mm from Golden eagle
Skunk2 pro2 cams (have)
skunk2 pro series valvesprings (have)
Crower chromoly retainers
Bisimoto or Golden eagle cam gears
Performer x manifold
Itr throttle body bored to 65mm
96 spec itr trans, possibly with with m factory 3,4,5
Kidd racing rmf replica header (have)
Neptune RTP on p28 tuned by IMW
Assembly and machine work will be done at Mark Smalls performance in Finksburg, including balancing of full rotating assembly.

Compression approximately 12.2:1, 1.9L displacement, between boring and stroking. Just enough "*****" to hopefully take full advantage of the pro2's. I realize im pushing alot of parts to there perspective "limits" like cylinder walls being my biggest concern. Where do you all stand with longevity, assuming all clearances and tuning are good on a 82x89 build like this?

 

Why MFactory 3,4,5? No need to change it. with the 4.4 final drive, plenty of acceleration for a street car. There's also no need to shave that much off of the head. just .005" will be more than enough. I've done a build of that magnitude myself, but with a less aggressive camshaft

 

Thanks for the input Shodan, ive been following your last 2 build threads and they were part of my inspiration to go this direction. Your probably right about the gearing, its just that the itr trans I have is not in a case yet and I kind of feel like its a opportunity to do something with it. I thought about dropping in a 4.7 fd but that proved to be easier said than done and I dont want my 1st and 2nd gear affected, so thats why I was looking into the mfactory gears, I figured in the end it would cost around the same as changing 1st gear and fd to accommodate the 4.7 fd. The engine is going to start off mated to a b16 trans anyway which is essentially the same thing as a 96 spec itr minus a lsd, so ill drive on that for awhile and see if I like the gearing matched to the power, and ill decide then what to do with the itr trans. About the milling, I understand pro2's are real finicky with smaller displacement and having at least 12.1 compression. I am strongly opposed to using an aftermarket headgasket (bad experience in the past) and would rather not use 1 or 2 layers of an oem headgasket. I also explored the idea of flat faced valves, but ruled that out too. I originally planned on using my ctr head, but ill be using my gsr head instead to make up for some compression. Ill probably end up taking 7-8 thousandths of both the head and the block to reach my compression goal.

 

I too think the Pro 2's on this setup is a bit much.

 

Ive seen similar builds do well with these cams, but I too am a little worried im not going to get there full potential, I guess ill find out when the day comes to tune it.

 

My 81.5 x 89 11:5:1 LSV setup with Pro 2's put down 214whp at IMW on there new correction, and there hasn't been anything less than a 2.0L make more power, and my setup has put out more hp than a lot of b20v setups and even k20 setups.

There's no way Pro 2's are too big for this setup. That's absurd.

I'd recommend getting some headwork done though if it's within the budget. Steve at CC and RLZ do great work.

 

Damn, thats some nice power especially considering the displacement, when does it start to fall off? I was thinking about sending my head to Steve, if I can afford it, but unfortunately rlz is way out of my price range.

 

I think your overthinking on the gearing. You'll actually be doing TOO MUCH by changing those gears PLUS the final drive. Keep it simple. 4.785 with the matching shaft will work fine

 

I think it was after 8600 I'd have to find the graph.

 

I think I gave the wrong idea, what I meant to say was I wanted to keep the 4.4 fd and change the 3,4,5 with the mfactory gears INSTEAD of changing to a 4.7 and having to change the 1st gear too. I think I did the math once and figured out the mfactory 3,4,5 was the same price as a 4.7 fd and 1st gear, and like I said I dont want my 1st and 2nd gear to be shorter which is what would happen if I change the fd to a 4.7. Ill probably end up putting it in the case as is cause it is my daily.

 

Damn, what is your setup?

 

Pro 1's would have peaked sooner and picked up mid-range at a more reasonable RPM as well. If this was an all out race only car then yea, go ahead and make no power til 7k, but since he still wants it for the street why not pick up USABLE power?

 

B18b1 Block bored to 81.5mm
Rs Machines 81.5mm Pr3 Pistons
Stock Rods
ARP Rod bolts
ARP Head Studs

B18c5 Head
CC Cylinder Heads Hot Street Port Work
Supertech Valve springs
Supertech Retainers
Skunk 2 Pro 2 Cams
UGR(Skunk2 Tuner) Adjustable Cam Gears
Skunk 2 Pro Series Intake Manifold Port Matched
Precision 650cc Injectors
68mm Professional Products Throttle Body
RMF Narrow Copy Header
Injen Short Ram
Blox Velocity Stack and Filter

3 Inch Exhaust
Walboro 255

S4C B16 Transmission
Competition Stage 5 Clutch
Competition Lightweight Flywheel



Are you serious..?

Any car with Pro 1's we compared my car to it beat it absolutely everywhere. Meaning more whp and wtq EVERYWHERE.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ge=2&t=2684800

Exactly like that test.

Quit spreading bad information.

 

One motor doesn't speak for ALL setups...

 

I agree all setups are different, but in regards to these cams, ive seen several builds very similar to mine make great power everywhere with pro2's, and ive also seen a handful do not so well. Basically I have my fingers crossed and hope im one of the lucky ones that can make these cams come to life with a smaller displacement build. If it doesnt work out, ill probably trade for some pro1's and lose a couple bucks on dyno time, but I think its worth it to try.

 

i personally wouldnt stress a few points of compression gained by shaving your block and head that much. just make sure both surfaces are straight and call it a day. those pro2 cams are kinda picky with clearances so shaving your head down a lot wouldnt be the best idea.

 

You are killing me.

One motor..?

I just told you my setup made more power than numerous setups with Pro 1's.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/dynapack-vs-mustang-dyno-2957952/

This was 205whp on the dynapack that had an intake length added with the filter off the vstack which it previously made 200whp with the filter on and no length added and 210whp on a Mustang Dyno with no length added and the filter on.

The car recently put down 214whp on the dynapack with no length and the filter on, so it probably could have picked up 5whp again with the length added and filter off which would be roughly 219 at IMW, and 224whp on the Mustang Dyno.

The car went 104mph in a full weight ek coupe with a 200 pound + driver at roughly 200whp since the filter was on with no length added, no ram air, and that was short shifting 2nd and falling out of vtec, because it wouldn't go in gear.

The point to all this is, is show me 1.8L with Pro 1's making nearly 230whp on a Mustang Dyno, and the car can be re put on there to back up the talk when the new owner puts a new trans in it.

 

Im not doubting you or your setup. I am familiar with that thread as I read through it when I was selecting cams for my 1.8L. It is impressive and you got great results. What I am getting at is you simply cannot put the Pro 2's in a 1.8 and see those type of results on a regulat basis. It takes a VERY stout 1.8 build, including head porting and all supporting mods with hours of tuning to get the results you got. MANY of the people on this forum with a reltively stock 1.8 would be very disappointed if they ran pro 2's over pro 1's. I know on my setup, 82mm gsr, the pro 1's perform better in diferent aspects. They may not make PEAK power, but the power band is much better with them as a whole. I have seen numerous 1.8's benefit from the pro 1's over pro 2's, just in your case you blew them out of the water. I just wanted the OP to be aware that bigger may not be better, but then again he could get lucky. Again Im not knocking your setup as it is very impressive....but you and I both know 95% of the users on here would see that thread, use them, and be disappointed because their setup could not support such large cams.

 

I completely understand what you are saying, but I wasn't recommending cams for everyone on Honda-Tech's 1.8 build I was just saying with this 1 build I really think Pro 2's would outperform Pro 1's.

That's another reason I also recommended head work if it was in the budget.

 

I agree on this, I had my old 1.8-9L tuned with the tuners skunk2 stage2 and the Pro2's. I lost peak power by 6whp with the pro2's. The skunk2 stage2 made 211whp and Pro2's made 205whp.

the set-up was

B16 head (port/polish/chamber work/valve shrouded/3 angle intake valve job/radius exhaust vj)
ported type r manifold
68mm tb
ebay tri-y header

GSR bottom
82mm ctr pistons
stock rods/arp bolts

 

You said peak though, and we all know the tuner 2's are gutless down low. I'm guessing you gave up low and mid range for peak power which was the original argument of Pro 1s vs Pro 2's not Tuner 2's lol

 

i gave up 211whp to find more with pro2's but it didnt happen.

 

I suppose. you won't notice that much with the changed 1st gear anyway. Plus, there's less to go wrong if there is an error in installation. Plus, for any true acceleration, 1st gear isn't the most important anyway.

 

Dyno comparison graph..?

Was this done on the same dyno, same day, same correction, and same tuner. If not then I don't care.