just wondering guys..is it too excessive when a tuner tunes your cam gears to +4in/+4ex on my old lsvtec setup??im running an oldskool aem tru-time 3bolt..he said that was the best my motor was responding to then but now im running a built b20 block..should i switch it back to 0in/0ex??

oh..fyi..i dont think my head was milled nor did i resurface it(no leaks)..that one lil copper thing under the head..idk wat its called..but it still shows that the head still had alot more shaving to go b4 it reached its minimum..

 

Peter, with your new b20 block, you can put the s2s2 cams at zero and be fine to drive assuming that P2V clearence is ok, but the best way to do this correctly is have the cams dialed in to fine the true tdc for both the cams and crankshaft. But for the most part, people dont have a cam degree tool or not knowledgeble enough to dial the cams in themselves, so best thing to do if you dont know how or cannot find a shop to dial the cams in then just leave them at 0,0 should be ok. Just be sure to have it tuned before you start smashing on it. GL

 

+4 in and +4 ex is also the quick settings for s2 tuner 2 cams i had my b20 vtec running the same settings and im milled .012 im now at +3 in and 0 ex, 0'0 should be fine

 

Skunk tuner 2's LOVED I+2, E-1 on two different builds I had.

 

Thnx for the input guys..will definitely keep those settings in mind..guess im goin 0/0..
Jdmcivic2fast-don't worry bro..it barely passed the 400mi mark..i wouldn't want it to go down the drain. ..

 

Same with my cams which are very similar to s2s2. retarding the exhaust side promots better exhaust scavenging in most cases.

 

Without a degree wheel; 0,0 is where you should leave them at.

 

Degree wheel my ***! These cams are small and a degree wheel will just give him some messsed up setting that will not be his max power setting.

 

So what? Guess and check until you blow the motor? Lulz

 

why guess when you can start at PROVEN settings that have worked for numerous people on numerous setups??? These cams are tooo small to blow **** unless you get retard wild on the settings.

 

I guess all setups are the same. In that case everything makes sense.

 

guys....you don't need degree wheels to set those cams up, just a dyno. You will not have any V2V or P2V issues with them so you can start at 0-0 and go to the dyno and tune them. I run pro 2's and never degreed them and they work fine for me because I checked all my clearences before I put the head back on and I dialed the cams in on the dyno. It really doesn't need to be rocket science....

 

This is exactly what I have trying to tell this guy but he seems quite dense .

 

Tuner series cams dont contain the duration of the pro series or other cams..
stock primaries, with a medium sized vteclobe..i say med, but compared to a stock lobe its fairly big..

tuner series cams like overlap, that in itself has been proven. search s2s2's you'll find that almost 99% of the people who have ran this cam, have the intake advanced, and the exhaust retarded..The cam uses stock centerlines so a degree wheel is not needed.

 

What may work for others might not work for everyone. Like I said 0,0 is the best starting point. Cam settings should be degreed in or changed on a dyno.

 

Not everyone...just 99% lol SMH.

 

Cool story bro!

 

i go off of my wideband when moving my tuner 2 cams if i move it and it goes lean i made power and i leave it then street tune fuel and move other came til where they lean out again so far my best settings are +3 intake and -1 exhaust im done messing with them until i get another header because i think my hytech small tube rep header is to small plus it leaks pretty bad which im sure isnt helping my power but i have to figure out what header to get

 

Wow..guess there's always something to learn..keep at it guys..maybe ill learn more ****..lol