Hello, new to Ht here but not a newb.. just bought Crower Stage 3 NA Cams for my B18B all motor project, Sk2 valve spring / retainers. ARP head/rod studs, and finally a set of Wiseco dome pistons 81mm. Saving for my ITB setup than i will be putting this beast together, Im shooting for a 190hp at the wheels all motor setup. Im going with shotpeen rods, My question here is will i be able to rev my motor ( safely ) to 9200rpm with stock shotpeen rods with arp studs? Im kinda on a budget here and dont want this build to exceed 4k this motor will be going in a gutted crx. The cam i have says it stops making power around 9200 revs, Will i have to go with H beams for this build? Is my power goal realistic for all motor B? Im still 50/50 about the ITB's how much of a gain will i have over sk2 intake, are they worth the head ake and the $700? ( obx itb ). Im new to all motor i have had 2 turbo motors this will be my 1st N/A build.
Thanks for any help...
Nick.

 

Sell it and buy some chronic!

 

I rather sell my wife for the chronic its a good trade off... someone answer my question, can i rev my b18 to 9k with stock rods and Arp rod bolts? I know the bolts are what holds motors back from high rev, but will the rods hold up to 190-220hp?

 

shotpeen em. Are they best choice? No

 

get arp rod bolts than your good.
easy as that.

 

Not really. Depends on what he is doing with the car.
Which he hasn't even said and does matter.
If your gonna do all that work and plan on revving the **** out of it get something you KNOW will hold

 

is this a ls/v are just a ls

 

Just drive around i dont race, maybe a street race once in a blue moon.. Im just a casual my cars have ac and full interior.
I beams are around 500 with rod bolts so ill just put my project off for a month or two more.. your right i should invest in something i know wont brake no matter what i do to it. 500 to protect a $2000 or more motor is not a bad idea, i only wanted to know if the oem rods are strong they look fairly strong this is my first b18 i only had single cams in the past.

 

They are strong. And having them shotpeened makes them better.

But if you like to get on it and keep it on a high note id look into switching them. They like to bend during high rpms if u keep them up there too long

 

b18b? they only rev to 6500- 6700 or whatever because they have a longer stroke and sucky rod-stroke ratio which promotes frictional piston and cylinder wear compromising high rpms unlike gsr b18s with 8000 rpm. that is the reason why i hate the concept of ls/vtecs unless theyre really built. i wouldnt wanna build that motor at all unless you get some good h-beam rods especially if you want those high rpms. shotpeened i think would only give you an additional 1000 rpm or more likely less with b18b design

 

many people have reved out shotpeend ls rods with arp rod bolts to that rpm and have been fine. but there has also been many poeple to have them fail.

when building a high reving ls. the first typical failing point is lack of oil, the second is the rod bolts, and the third is the rods themselves.

if you really are on a budget id say go with the shotpeend/arp bolt combo. but if you can afford it. i would look at brian crowers LS light weight rods. they are not obnoxiously expensive but will give you some piece of mind. and the fact that they are lightweight they wont kill you like those h beams and such.

 

Lol so then u can not worry about throwing a rod and just worry about losing a rocker arm

 

hey man i got Brain Crower stage 3 full race cams in my gsr, they made 210 to the wheels reving to 9600 rpms and they were still making power to there and i have stock bottom end with type R pistons

 

That's a gsr...different