Car won't run
Hey guys, new to the forum and need some diagnosis help.
Was driving my 2002 civic LX on the freeway a couple days ago and it suddenly dies on me; No check engine light. Pulled over and tried to start it and it would stutter and die after a couple seconds. Got it towed home and tried to start it again and same problem, i even hooked up a scanner to check and there was no codes or CEL. Spoke to a friend and he mentioned that it could be my throttle body sticking; so I removed the throttle body and spent a good time cleaning it and i'm still having the same issue. I also checked and there is spark in all 4 cylinders... My neighbor mentioned it might be a fuel issue like fuel pump going bad. Does anyone else have any ideas?
Thanks
Was driving my 2002 civic LX on the freeway a couple days ago and it suddenly dies on me; No check engine light. Pulled over and tried to start it and it would stutter and die after a couple seconds. Got it towed home and tried to start it again and same problem, i even hooked up a scanner to check and there was no codes or CEL. Spoke to a friend and he mentioned that it could be my throttle body sticking; so I removed the throttle body and spent a good time cleaning it and i'm still having the same issue. I also checked and there is spark in all 4 cylinders... My neighbor mentioned it might be a fuel issue like fuel pump going bad. Does anyone else have any ideas?
Thanks
"DAHONAM" Start with basics:
1.fuel pressure
2.spark presence
3.compression / timing
By the way what's the milage on the car?
Quick way would be to turn key on, and back off the fitting at the fuel rail. That's just to see if the pump is building pressure. I'd do that first. Also tried to listed for the pump when you first turn the key on.
A week pump may build some pressure, but not enough. I think you have to cut a line and 't' into it with a gauge, as these cars don't have shrader valves to tap into. But maybe someone else has an easier way.
A week pump may build some pressure, but not enough. I think you have to cut a line and 't' into it with a gauge, as these cars don't have shrader valves to tap into. But maybe someone else has an easier way.
It's a relatively simple procedure. Might I recommend that you purchase a service manual? http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2...C01&itemtype=N
In short; first you'll need to relieve the fuel pressure. Do this by removing the fuel injection relay behind the glove box. There are two relays next to one another; you want to remove the one on the left.
Start the car and let it idle until it dies. (ignore the MIL during this process)
Turn the ignition off, then remove the gas cap to relieve the pressure in the tank.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. (If you have the stock radio, make sure you have the anti-theft code handy or you'll need to contact the dealership to get the code. If you have an aftermarket radio, don't worry about the code.)
Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.
Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line. (pressure gauge 07406-004000A) and (pressure gauge attachment 07AAJ-S6MA150) or equivalent.
Reconnect the battery.
Reinstall the fuel injection relay.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II) and verify that you can hear the fuel pump activate, then proceed. (you should also do this before you even get started)
Start the engine and let it idle.
The fuel pressure should be 270-320 kPa (2.8-3.3 kgf/cm², 40-47 psi)
If the fuel pressure is not within specs, replace the pressure regulator and the fuel filter. If it's still out of spec, replace the fuel pump.
NOTE: The fuel filter and pressure regulator are part of the fuel pump assembly and are located inside the fuel tank. You'll need to remove the lower-half of the back seat to get to it. It might be easier to just change the whole thing.
Also check to make sure the timing belt didn't slip.
In short; first you'll need to relieve the fuel pressure. Do this by removing the fuel injection relay behind the glove box. There are two relays next to one another; you want to remove the one on the left.
Start the car and let it idle until it dies. (ignore the MIL during this process)
Turn the ignition off, then remove the gas cap to relieve the pressure in the tank.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. (If you have the stock radio, make sure you have the anti-theft code handy or you'll need to contact the dealership to get the code. If you have an aftermarket radio, don't worry about the code.)
Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.
Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line. (pressure gauge 07406-004000A) and (pressure gauge attachment 07AAJ-S6MA150) or equivalent.
Reconnect the battery.
Reinstall the fuel injection relay.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II) and verify that you can hear the fuel pump activate, then proceed. (you should also do this before you even get started)
Start the engine and let it idle.
The fuel pressure should be 270-320 kPa (2.8-3.3 kgf/cm², 40-47 psi)
If the fuel pressure is not within specs, replace the pressure regulator and the fuel filter. If it's still out of spec, replace the fuel pump.
NOTE: The fuel filter and pressure regulator are part of the fuel pump assembly and are located inside the fuel tank. You'll need to remove the lower-half of the back seat to get to it. It might be easier to just change the whole thing.
Also check to make sure the timing belt didn't slip.
Last edited by It Wasn't Me; Aug 30, 2011 at 04:19 PM. Reason: Added info.
Trending Topics
It's a relatively simple procedure. Might I recommend that you purchase a service manual? http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2...C01&itemtype=N
In short; first you'll need to relieve the fuel pressure. Do this by removing the fuel injection relay behind the glove box. There are two relays next to one another; you want to remove the one on the left.
Start the car and let it idle until it dies. (ignore the MIL during this process)
Turn the ignition off, then remove the gas cap to relieve the pressure in the tank.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. (If you have the stock radio, make sure you have the anti-theft code handy or you'll need to contact the dealership to get the code. If you have an aftermarket radio, don't worry about the code.)
Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.
Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line.
Start the engine and let it idle.
The fuel pressure should be 270-320 kPa (2.8-3.3 kgf/cm², 40-47 psi)
If the fuel pressure is not within specs, replace the pressure regulator and the fuel filter. If it's still out of spec, replace the fuel pump.
NOTE: The fuel filter and pressure regulator are part of the fuel pump assembly and are located inside the fuel tank. You'll need to remove the lower-half of the back seat to get to it. It might be easier to just change the whole thing.
In short; first you'll need to relieve the fuel pressure. Do this by removing the fuel injection relay behind the glove box. There are two relays next to one another; you want to remove the one on the left.
Start the car and let it idle until it dies. (ignore the MIL during this process)
Turn the ignition off, then remove the gas cap to relieve the pressure in the tank.
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. (If you have the stock radio, make sure you have the anti-theft code handy or you'll need to contact the dealership to get the code. If you have an aftermarket radio, don't worry about the code.)
Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail.
Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line.
Start the engine and let it idle.
The fuel pressure should be 270-320 kPa (2.8-3.3 kgf/cm², 40-47 psi)
If the fuel pressure is not within specs, replace the pressure regulator and the fuel filter. If it's still out of spec, replace the fuel pump.
NOTE: The fuel filter and pressure regulator are part of the fuel pump assembly and are located inside the fuel tank. You'll need to remove the lower-half of the back seat to get to it. It might be easier to just change the whole thing.
Pluging the fuel pressure tester the way you described will only show priming pressure(static pressure).To see the running (dynamic pressure) you will have to (T) in between pressure rail and fuel feed line.
That's very good procedure but I think you missed couple of steps there.The car won't be able to idle because the relay is out and the battery is disconnected and the car won't get any fuel to idle!!!
Pluging the fuel pressure tester the way you described will only show priming pressure(static pressure).To see the running (dynamic pressure) you will have to (T) in between pressure rail and fuel feed line.
Pluging the fuel pressure tester the way you described will only show priming pressure(static pressure).To see the running (dynamic pressure) you will have to (T) in between pressure rail and fuel feed line.
Read the Helm's 2001-2005 Civic Service Manual, it'll tell you basically the same thing about removing the relay and starting the car and letting it stall. I didn't feel like writing out the entire "relieve fuel pressure" entry as it is substantially (and unnecessarily) long.
Using the right "T" fitting, as described in the literature (pressure gauge 07406-004000A) and (pressure gauge attachment 07AAJ-S6MA150) will allow you to start and run the vehicle. (provided the vehicle will actually run.) You don't just plug a pressure gauge into the end of the fuel line. Sorry if I was unclear about this.
Forgot to mention putting the relay back in, but I figured that'd also be common sense to reinstall it before starting the car to check the fuel pressure.
You also quoted me before I had made initial revisions.
Read the Helm's 2001-2005 Civic Service Manual, it'll tell you basically the same thing about removing the relay and starting the car and letting it stall. I didn't feel like writing out the entire "relieve fuel pressure" entry as it is substantially (and unnecessarily) long.
Using the right "T" fitting, as described in the literature (pressure gauge 07406-004000A) and (pressure gauge attachment 07AAJ-S6MA150) will allow you to start and run the vehicle. (provided the vehicle will actually run.) You don't just plug a pressure gauge into the end of the fuel line. Sorry if I was unclear about this.
Forgot to mention putting the relay back in, but I figured that'd also be common sense to reinstall it before starting the car to check the fuel pressure.
You also quoted me before I had made initial revisions.
Using the right "T" fitting, as described in the literature (pressure gauge 07406-004000A) and (pressure gauge attachment 07AAJ-S6MA150) will allow you to start and run the vehicle. (provided the vehicle will actually run.) You don't just plug a pressure gauge into the end of the fuel line. Sorry if I was unclear about this.
Forgot to mention putting the relay back in, but I figured that'd also be common sense to reinstall it before starting the car to check the fuel pressure.
You also quoted me before I had made initial revisions.


I hear ya. Kinda why I recommending the purchase of a manual, and revised my post a couple times.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Yellow Dragon
Hybrid / Engine Swaps
3
Aug 26, 2001 04:38 PM



onehelp

