so i traded my camaro for the honda yesterday, my question is about when the turbo is suppose to kick in, it kicks in after 5k but my friends h22 boosted, kicks in at 3500rpm, why is that? does it have something to do with the tune? and i sure as hell dont wanna ask the guy i got it from since he lied and didnt tell me about the 2 oil leaks i found this morning -.- and also the windshield wipers dont work -.- and i live in florida, where it rains almost weekly in the summer, heres the specs of the motor i got from the guy's page. i plan on pulling off the valve cover and oil pan next week once i have money. but i would like to know whats going on with this turbo, supposedly suppose to have 430hp at 19psi its now set at 14psi for DD, hope someone can help me with this.


built B16 (bored)
H-Beam rods
victor X manifold
precision SC61 .70
low comp endyn pistons
CTR cams
Skunk2 cam gears
full skunk2 catback exhaust system(3inch)
3inch down pipe
electric cut out
ramhorn turbo manifold
hondata intake gasket
Type R valves
ARP head studs
micro polish crank
ACL race bearings
GSR tranny shifts like butter.
Greddy boost controller
Greddy turbo timer

 

sounds right. bigger turbo, small displacement.

 

so are you saying i need a smaller turbo for the boost to kick in around 3500rpm, and idk of my friend was being a dick or not but he said i have to have the car tuned once a month? im calling bs on that

 

yes deffinately smaller turbo's spool faster and you feel them quicker now this doesnt mean you ill make gobs of power but if you are only seeking the wow factor go smaller.

 

lol@ once a month thats b/s i would however get it to a reputable tuner, and have them go over it for safety

 

what would u say is the best size turbo to put on, i wanna be able to take my friend's honda without a problem. me and him raced when i had my LS1 camaro and we were basically dead even during the race but now i dont think it would be much of a race if it doesnt spool fast but when that turbo hits its crazy and i got it at 14 psi now

 

my friend is a dick -.- and the guy that tuned it also tuned my camaro

 

tuned once a month, lmfaooo wowowow what an *******

 

ill say it like this man if your not going to a tuner that great with honda's and thats putting it on the rollers not the street then your not going to get the potential 0ut it you need

florida try cft man they do awsome work.

anyone can get preamitors right, but a true tuner can make it run like a champ

 

true, cant afford having it retuned since they want $500 -.- i just looked it up on their site and i really need to figure out this oil leak, its coming from 2 places -.-

i do know it was tuned by alpha and they are suppose to be pretty good

 

another question, does a rebuilt turbo smoke alot? me i was thinking valve seals are leaking until the guy said new turbos smoke.

 

New turbos smoke? repeat that statement to your self three times and see if it sounds logical....my advice to you is to take your car to a reputable tuner and go from there..

 

lol this guy either doesnt know anything or is just tryin to play you

 

im sure 92frostwhtdb2 know what ******** can be on tamparacing -.-


man i think i shoulda kept the camaro -.- once i sell my LS6 heads i'll find a shop to go to

 

The hatch is faster then your camaro..

Get it tuned, you'll be happy. I assure you, once boost comes on, you'll forget about your silly ls1(trying to give a typical ricer response for you.)


If you're worried about the health of the engine. Comp test and leakdown test would be in order. Smoking alot when.. high rpms? Light accel? idle?..

 

Keep that turbo, just need to brake boost when you race. Very important

 

light accel, then worse at high rpm, if i can get my car into the shop tomorrow i plan on doing a comp. test along with a inspection

 

leakdown will tell more..

sounds like valve stem seals. depending on how the car was broken in, your rings might be bad.

 

honestly i dont know what that is, this is the first turbo car i've owned

 

Get on the HWY and practice..

While you're at say 60mph, lightly press the brakes, but press the gas down.. equal out until you start building boost while braking.. then let off the brakes.

Try to slow down, but dont actual do so.

 

i'll ask my shop teacher about the leakdown since im not sure what it is. i was thinking valves when i saw it smoking then he said something about the turbo -.-

 

Lets say you doing a 60 roll, put it in 3rd, thats probably around 5500. LEft foot on the brake and right foot on the gas. Control the pedals until you start building boost but your not changing speed. For me I can usually go pretty far with the gas pedal and used to get 10-15 lbs in my SC61 on takeoff. Never let a V8 or v10 (viper) get the torque jump on me.

Its hard on your brakes obviously so just be careful not to over heat them.

 

interesting, i'll give it a try sometime, im still getting used to no power steering, i have drilled and slotted rotors so i think they might be fine? not sure

 

Those dont do anything for you. Probably worse then just blanks. Brakes are cheap thankfully.

Rock auto $15 a rotor, get some nice semi aggressive pads like Hawk HP+ or EBC reds/yellows and it'll change everything

Im just not sure about stock civic brakes. I was uneasy about stopping from 130+ racing people so I upgraded to a type R 11" setup up front on my integra.