YES, I HAVE SEARCHED AND THE SEARCH WAS FRUITLESS, DO NOT COMMENT WITH THAT "SEARCH" CRAP PLEASE

Not to sound rude but that seems to be the norm with most post regarding technical questions.

My EG has excessive brake pedal travel and im stumped as all hell. Parts replaced:

-Front Calipers
-Rear shoes
-Front pads
-Front soft lines
-Brake booster
-Master cylinder

The system has been bled numerous times on many occasions. At first i thought it was the booster because their would be a rush of air immediately after the car was turned off. No difference. Then i moved on to shoes and pads; same result (no change). Then i replaced my calipers and still nothing had changed. After hearing from friends that you typically replace the master after the break booster just in case the old one is leaking (??) i decided to go ahead and replace it yet there was still NO CHANGE IN PEDAL TRAVEL. The pedal still stops about an inch or so from the carpet. On rare occasions there will be slightly more pressure than normal but by no means what it should be. Car still takes a year n a sunday to stop. the Brake booster is adjusted to stock position BTW. There is no leak and the fluid level has not moved since the last bleeding 3 months ago.

Any insight as to WTF this is would be much appreciated.

 

Still sounds like air in the system. Did you bench bleed the M/C?

 

Yup i did and still no change. i thought the same thing but after bleeding it for 2 straight hours i cant imagine air still being in there

 

bump

 

-__-

 

do you have a leak? its either that, or the proportioning valve, which is like the only thing in your brake system that hasn't been touched. I have one in good working order if you need..

 

Thats what i was thinking too. is it even common for them to go bad?

 

No it's not common. I've never even heard of that.

Have adjusted the "free-play" of the brake pedal since changing all those parts? Perhaps the pushrod isn't even pushing the piston of the master cylinder until halfway down? That's the only other thing that came to mind...

 

I thought of that too and tried it. it did the same thing tho (full stopping power half way through pedal travel.) Exact same thing thing the old master and booster did.

 

Try using a c-clamp and push the brake piston in while you bleed the lines there could still be air trapped inside the piston. A friends integra had this problem, bled the lines numerous times, replaced the M/C and booster and still couldn't get a firm pedal. We used a clamp to push the piston in then bled the lines again a bunch of air bubbles came out and it finally gave him a firm pedal.

 

^This, but make sure the bleeder valve is open so the air escapes and is not just forced back up the brake line. When you bleed the brakes put a clear hose over the nipple and into a clean glass jar with clean brake fluid so you can see if air is coming out/going back in and so brake fluid is the only thing that can go back in.

 

*UPDATE*

So after peaking around my bay, i found an unhealthy amount of Brake fluid around the middle of my prop valve. its not squirting out i assume because im not losing large amounts of fluid; id say its seeping out very slowly.. so my next move is to swap it out when i do my rear disc swap.

Any ideas why it would be doing this though? just curious.

 

well?

I have had 2 Accords with the same issue, and 2 of my Customers as well. .

2x93's 1x94 and 1x92

1 of the 93's has ABS the others do not.

my project car (94 Accord LX) has a reman master, new pads in front and new shoes in back.

adjusted rear drums as tight as i am comfortable (just barely dragging), bled system 2 times until all fluid ran clear.

mighty vac'ed, and the old fashioned way.

bench bled reman master, (same travel as before)
bled at master after re-install
bled rear cylinders today for the hell of it

- no sign of air -

one more thing: this condition started after a very low speed ice-skating adventure into the curb in front of my house. the impact caused the lower control arm and sub frame to bend enough for the caliper banjo bolt to smack the lower fork of my left strut. crushing the copper washer and dumping my brake fluid :/ at least i didn't have to drive it far after that. .

I tried to center the proportioning valve best i could, it feels like it may be stuck.

me: mechanic 13 years, hundreds of brake jobs i'm sure.
have 01 Chevy venture for the kids, dogs, and groceries
97 ford Taurus
76 Honda GL1000 bobber rat bike with 61 sprint side car (also for the kids)
62 Plymouth Valiant 225 slant 6 air research t3 set up for blow-through carb. for the wife
and
94 accord lx CD7, f22b2, t3 Air research on the bench waiting for the bearing kit. .