OK, I have a couple problems here. Hook me up with some advise.

Car wont rev past 3500rpm. Its like it just bounces off the rev limiter. Odd right?

Next, there is a fuse in the fuse box called "Back-up". I was trying to read the codes via the plug but the light wouldn't blink. I seen that "back-up" fuse was blown. So i replaced it. However, here is where it gets tangly. When i installed the new fuse, the dash lights come on (oil, bat, cel) and stay on, even when i key isnt in the ignition. When i started the car like this, it will not turn off even when i take the key out. If i remove the good fuse from the "back-up" it will start and turn off fine.

WTF is up with my car?! lol

I drive a mazda so this is my 1st honda. Trying to learn as much as possible.

BTW, motor has 600K on it

 

Title fixed.

1) Somebody probably removed the CEL bulb in the cluster, which may be why the CEL doesn't work. The ECU is probably in limp mode due to CEL codes thrown.

2) Do you have an aftermarket radio? Somebody probably rewired the radio incorrectly and spliced the constant power radio wire to the radio illumination wire.

 

the cel works...when i start the car it throws a code....
i'm going to pull ou the radio, and all of its wiring, and then try to get it to work....why doesnt the car turn off when the back up fuse is good and i take the keys out though?

 

Post the codes.

I explained this in my first post.

 

I got it to function properly. The radio works, it turns off right. Someone had constant power running to it and the acc from the cars harness tide in with one of the speakers. What a dummy. They cut the stock plug off too. Never even got a wiring kit.

 

Would a small leak in a gas line create a fuel injector code? That's the one I got. 16. Fuel injectors

 

Bump

 

Unplug all four injector clips and then...

1) measure the resistance across the two terminals of the fuel injector itself (spec = 10-13 Ohms).
2) turn the key to ON(II) and measure voltage to body ground at Yel/Blk wire terminal in each injector clip (spec = battery voltage).

 

The injectors ohmage all checked out ok, as did the voltage (11.8V)

So I took them out suspecting a clog and i make shifted a self cleaning device...hope it works. Thanks for your help.

 

The battery voltage is low. What voltage do you measure across the battery posts? Also check that all for injector ground wires are properly pinned to the ECU and test each wires for an open or short.

 

Well, im pretty sure that the battery is OEM so im not surprised that it would be low. The makeshift cleaning I did worked like a charm and it runs smooth now. However, the head gasket is gone and I believe so is the waterpump. The coolant isn't flowing and there are no blockages.

So im going to sell the car locally as a parts car or part it out on here