skunk2 pro2 v2v issue(urgent help needed)
ok heres the problem. im using a gsr head thats been milled combustion chamber enlargened. valves havent been touched.
the setup im running is
Buddyclub flat valves
skunk2 pro2 cams
pro series valves springs,
retainners,
85mmx89mm
gsr head milled
darton sleeved decked
je piston
i took my motor to get dialed in. cause i havent got the gear etc. now the engine reconditioner are saying that i have v2v issue. the only way to solve is to advance the exhaust cam. (which doing so, is hurting the power. he reckons cause it wont be setup to the spec sheet from skunk2) the other way to solve it is to cut the intake valve seat by 1mm and add shims to fix the v2 retainer and seat height.
so ALL MOTOR i know your used this setup before. so please help
what your cam gears set at etc
did you have to cut valve seat?
add shims?
anyone thats used this setup before please share your info
the setup im running is
Buddyclub flat valves
skunk2 pro2 cams
pro series valves springs,
retainners,
85mmx89mm
gsr head milled
darton sleeved decked
je piston
i took my motor to get dialed in. cause i havent got the gear etc. now the engine reconditioner are saying that i have v2v issue. the only way to solve is to advance the exhaust cam. (which doing so, is hurting the power. he reckons cause it wont be setup to the spec sheet from skunk2) the other way to solve it is to cut the intake valve seat by 1mm and add shims to fix the v2 retainer and seat height.
so ALL MOTOR i know your used this setup before. so please help
what your cam gears set at etc
did you have to cut valve seat?
add shims?
anyone thats used this setup before please share your info
Yep, advancing the exhaust a bit will help out. I know you are on B series stuff, but from my experience with H series (I've ran the pro1, 2, and 3) they all like to be advanced a bit on the exhaust side anyways. Cutting the seats deeper would also work, but I would leave that as a last resort.
I didn't have to add any shims..
Advancing the exhaust cam doesn't necessary hurt power...you're trying to line the cams up for the correct centerlines for openings.
From the put out on paper you should be around +2 int and +5 exhaust. I'd start there.. depending on how much was milled and what not. You can't run the pro cams @ 0/0.. you might could get away with it on a stock motor, but a bigger, built motor like yours or mine wont get away with it. Skunk's centerlines for the pro2's are 99/106 whereas stock is 98/103. Generally speaking you want 4 degrees seperation, thats crank degrees, but it'll mean spacing the seperation of the cams out.
Some people have ran as much as +2/3int and +6-8 exh.. others have ran -1 on the int or -2 and ran +4/5 on the exh.. i've rarely seen a setup like retarding the intake cam though. Thats just my experince.
Are you having problems bottoming out??
Advancing the exhaust cam doesn't necessary hurt power...you're trying to line the cams up for the correct centerlines for openings.
From the put out on paper you should be around +2 int and +5 exhaust. I'd start there.. depending on how much was milled and what not. You can't run the pro cams @ 0/0.. you might could get away with it on a stock motor, but a bigger, built motor like yours or mine wont get away with it. Skunk's centerlines for the pro2's are 99/106 whereas stock is 98/103. Generally speaking you want 4 degrees seperation, thats crank degrees, but it'll mean spacing the seperation of the cams out.
Some people have ran as much as +2/3int and +6-8 exh.. others have ran -1 on the int or -2 and ran +4/5 on the exh.. i've rarely seen a setup like retarding the intake cam though. Thats just my experince.
Are you having problems bottoming out??
what do you mean bottoming out?. if you mean valve spring to retainner issue. its ok . have you had to cut the valve seats? all the engine reconditioners sayin that the true centre of the cams cant be set according to the spec sheet. also flat valves have quite a big head on it it takes away the clearance. he said its guna be impossible to get the .040' clearance v2v. the only way is to grind the valve head down to suit.
Then do so, i'd follow what the people measuring the thing.
I dont know all your clearances so i can't tell you otherwise.. you need at least .030 between.
I dont know all your clearances so i can't tell you otherwise.. you need at least .030 between.
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