what mounting would you use to mount the down pipe the turbo pictured below?

 

looks like a big v-band.

 

Looks like one of those housings with no attachment. You have to get someone that knows how to weld to cast iron and weldon a Vband or other style flange but if you have to do it its best to use vband

 

here is a better pic, along with the link for the turbo its self.

Ebay link

 

This.

 

Yessir.... Gotta be able to weld steel to nickel-Iron. Can be done, but you have to go to a fabricator to do it.

In the end, it'll look like this...

 

The OP's housing is one of the old Garrett Japan type housings. The DP is held in place by 'straps' that connect to two of the CHRA bolts and two lugs on the dp. It's a compression fit. There is a also a weld-in adapter that allows you to use a normal 4-bolt style dp.

I'll try to find one of my old HKS catalogs so you'll get a better idea of what I am talking about.

Hotlinked from yahoo until I upload pics:

T04R with the weld-in 4-bolt adapter



I'll try to find some more pics of the HKS DP straps.

 

why not just buy a housing for $300? By the time you buy a v band and 2 flanges and have it welded, its gonna almost be the same amount of $ anyway

 

I have one of these I called atp and they sent me two flanges and a v band for like 65 bucks then took it ang got tig welded. Then made my down pipe fit. Pretty simple

 

Anyone hav any good fabricators in the atlanta area that are capable of this?

I know Dover Cylinder Head should be capable of this.

So i am assuming that the V band downpiping is prefered. why not a 4 bolt connection like pictured?

I am assuming you could sell me one?

Do you have a link? what all will they need from me?

 

Yeah they have a link on google the way you find it is a secret though. Ima tell you so dont freak out. First type atp on the search bar push enter theres gonna be more than one figure out wich one sells TURBOS. Come on man put sone effort in.

 

I was talking about flange specific.

Like this.

 

Nice. Is that a p trim housing. Thats probably the same one I have u shoyld just buy mine and that 1.15 is gonna take forever to spool up. I modified mine though

 

at what rpm do you hit and maintain boost?
injectors?
Going on a near stock type R w/ LS trans and Aftermarket LSD.

 

Yeah your gonna hate it. yours is divided right?
With the 1.15 I wouldnt make full boost in first gear and second gear would but will creep. And boost would start around 4500 and was full by 5500.
But what I did was block one of the ports on the housing and it spools up very nice now. Full boost in all gears by 4500. And didnt creep at all after.

I have a b18c1 with 1000cc injectors and an ls trans too. Tuned to 350whp with the 1.15ar turbine housing. After I modded the housing it was a completly diffrent car. If I were you I would try and trade for a gsr tranny if your thinking of going to the track.

 

he is going to be between 5k and 9k all day long. its going to be a drag car. its for a kid, who has had a few single cams, and 1 or 2 b series. bought the type r engine.

I have a ar.45 turbo, still ebay stuff though.

 

I just looked at the ebay link you posted and that is a horrible turbine to use on a non-diesel motor less than 4.0l. The extremely inefficient T04B compressor coupled to a divided AR1.15 is not a good setup for a drag car. Great for a pulling stumps in the pasture with your tractor but horrible for everything else.

$249.99 is cheap for a turbo but it's really not a good purchase in this case. If he is 'hell bent' on getting that turbo he needs to change the ex housing at an AR.70 or at least an AR.84.


I could not find my HKS catalog but I did find the flange I mentioned earlier on the HKS Japan site. Part #9 is secured to the housing by straps that attach to the two tabs on the flange. The dp piping is welded to this flange.

Best option - get a different turbo (journal bearing turbos are cheap these days)
Next best option - change the ex housing to something better (V-band outlet AR.70/.84 or 4 bolt AR.70/.84)
Work around - Weld-in a v-band adapter but if the welder isn't really good it might be the most expensive option. The hotlinked pics I posted earlier have a weld-in adapter.