I am in the process of swapping a 96 spec jdm itr into a 94 ls for my buddy, he already bought some bolt ons (3" cai, smsp knock off header, 2.5" catless exhaust, 6 puck and a 9lb fly)

and he is already ready to buy cams, his first choice are the skunk2 tuner 2's but im wondering if they would be a little too much for the 11:1 compression?

if so would using a 2 layer hg to bump up the comp be enough?

he would very much like to hit 200 whp tuned on 93 without having to replace any of these fresh internals if possible

 

you need to upgrade valvetrain to support the cams. the compression fine

 

go pro 1....honestly you'll probably get a better answer in the all motor section

 

dont listen this guy ^^, pro 1s are to much cam


but yes skunk2 tuner 2s would be fine, youll need to upgrade the valvetrain also but will fine otherwise and will make good power, doubt youll make 200whp, but should do good

 

Pro-1 or the M22X replacements with matching valvetrain, good tuning and a that thin head-gasket should get you where you want to be. I'm told 11.1:1 is about the bare minimum for these modern cams. This comes from reading the all-motor forum.

 

I'mm 100% with this guy. Every motor I've put these cams in has made great power with no driveability issues.

 

While I have mixed reviews, I really don't hear to much difference between the Tunner 1 to 2's. Do the tuners 2 make that much power to justify the headwork and higher revline(atleast I believe the needed to rev higher) Not mention that they "should" be degreed?

I'm a current believer in leaving the motor alone, But I would consider tuner 1's for a dd. The only way I would run 2's is if i could get them
really cheap.

 

there is no need for headwork with tuner 2's, or to rev higher, just get steel supertec valve springs and retainers, and youll be fine running the stock itr 8400 rpm redline, no real need to go higher

and any cam should be degreed when installed, degreeing isnt hard and is quick so thats no problem either

 

why, pro1s, m22s and jun3s all have made 200whp on stock jdm itrs

they wear out guides faster. need another 1000rpm or so which shortens engine life but they do make power with a good header

what would i do?

leave it stock, buy a used jackson, spend less in the end and make more whp

 

Thanks for the reply's I probably should have posted in the all motor forum but figured I would get a better answer sooner here from actual itr owners.

We were planning on using aftermarket valve springs but with factory retainers. I'm going to read up on the m22's, I actually brought up getting a jrsc but he already has a fully built sti swapped wrx wagon that is extremely unreliable and is constantly off the road for something. So this is just going to be his fun reliable dd that will see some racing. I'm trying to get him to sell the subi and make this a monster but he has so much money wrapped up in it it's hard for him to let it go

 

Check the all motor dyno sheets to get a idea. I made 200+ WHP with a 98 spec ITR with just bolt ons. My dyno sheet is posted their.

 

Thanks I'll check it out. Does anyone know where to get the m22x's or who I have to contact

 

Rocket is out of buisness. You need to contact HT member AllMotor in, of course, the all motor forum. He got the specs from Rocket and is still having the cams, valvetrain & basemaps made with a few minor updates. This guy knows his stuff. I don't know if it's all made to order or what...

 

if staying reliable is the concern spinning to 9500 with aggressive cams is more stressful on the engine than a few lbs of boost.

the most reliable way to keep this is to just keep the itr stock internal, run a nice header, bisi, hytech etc..good air filter and have a real tune done. the stock p73 map is rich

 

The excessive heat buildup with the JRSC shortens engine life as well. If you want to get the LHT intercooler setup we are talking another couple grand. Plus it sounds ridiculous to be running 6PSI and barely breaking the 200whp mark. If the intercooler wasn't so much money I would be all over the setup. But when you lay down the price you could easily have boughten a turbo setup utilizing a small turbo to spool quick or have fully built a NA motor. Maybe I need to ride in a JRSC ITR to know whats up first hand?

 

when i said reliable i didnt mean he doesnt want to sc cuz he thinks it wont be reliable, bc compared to the subaru this will be the most reliable car no matter what, he just wants to toy around with a decently quick all motor dd and not go crazy. like he wants this to stay all motor..

i didnt know you had to rev the m22x's to 9500 but im sure the itr can handle that just fine with stiffer valve springs.
believe me i would rather him go sc'd it would save me the headache but he already has a "monster" and just wants to play with this and keep it all motor, its his first honda he is just doing what i tell him, to a point.

and he did get a pretty decent header yeah its a knock off smsp but i am extremely suprised with the quality, and he has the itr aem cold air, and a p28 with an itr map burned on from phearable, and will be getting tuned on 93 with crome (not by me. pittsburgh performance) after we get it all together

 

thank you

 

eh..no...not really, the heat can promote detonation if you keep the car wound up. basically e85 if you're road racing.

a quality turbo setup is the way to go BUT you'll drop 4g to do one right. something like a precision 5431e, inline pro manifold and the rest should make around 300whp at 8-9psi

for all out hp nothing beats a turbo setup

i just suggested jackson since they can be had used fairly cheap. daily driving and autocross aren't much of a problem with heat. road racing is different

 

you don't HAVE to but those cams pull to 9k without trouble. with the standard +10% over peak hp your shift point would be 9900, even at 5% it's 9450

stock R peaks right about 8k which is why they shift well between 8400 and 8800

 

Oh and I must say I'm on the stock P73, 16 degrees timing, full intake and exhaust with 7 heat range plugs and from reading the plugs I'm more on the lean side. I can only assume my setup flows quite well and is beyond factory calibrations?

 

x 3. You would need headwork (good port & polish, flat valves), a good header and a good tune to make 200 + whp on the skunk2 tuner 2s

 

Why not ditch that 94 LS shell and go buy a Civic hatchback instead. Then you won't have to worry about camming the p!ss out of the motor as weight will make up the performance difference.

Then, you can post in the proper forum where these topics are discussed daily.

 

he likes the looks of the integra and wanted one ever since i owned one a couple years ago and handed that subaru its *** all motor when it still had the wrx motor in it and there were only 3 integra shells around for sale that he could find and this was the only rust free one, but is still giving me a headache with hacked wires and bad lca bushings on the front and rear

and the fact that he is 6'7 and looked really funny driving my old hatch, cant say its too much better in the teg but, oh well,

like i said i probably should have posted in the all motor forum but i figured i would get a quicker answer from actual itr owners with similar setups instead of guys with gsr's and b16's and b20v's giving me input

 

ITR guys have went down that path, but the ones who do are never fully satisfied and they usually end up selling their cars or going to boost.

The ITR motor is already wound pretty tight. You can get more HP with bolt-ons and internals, but it is not going to be dramatic.

Either appreciate it for what it is in sopmewhat stock N/A form, or just boost it and be done with it. The ITR is more than just its motor. People who do swaps into hatchcraps and Integra shells really don't get the full package. With that said, a lot of us leave the motor internals alone because power is never what the car is, or was, about.

You would be better off in the all-motor forum as guys there are always pushing to have the most HP. Regardless of what others say, there are better forums for this discussion. FWIW, only like 5% of the people in here have JDM motors. I'd bet way more folks have them in their hybrids.

 

that's the smart $

cost gets insane milking hp from an itr. even if you say....i picked up 7whp with a better header and air filter.

neat, you pair $100 per hp

you can do a new turbo setup with great parts tuned for about 4k

add 120hp with that setup and your cost per hp is 33 bucks or 1/3rd what NA runs along with a MUCH higher output potential. the other REALLY great part is you don't have to spin the motor any higher. this by itself helps longevity