Brief rundown: bought s2s2 cams/springs/retainers, planned on using a stock jdm gsr short block and thinner gasket along with 0.015" mill to get 11.2-1 CR to benefit from the cans. Then I decided to rebuild the bottom with jdm b16 pistons and OEM gasket to get 12:1, which in my opinion is the limit for pump gas. Well the machine shop took 0.05" off the block, standard resurfacing practice, and now I'm at 12.2:1. More importantly, I don't know where to start with the cams as for tuning. Nobody in my area knows how to degree them in, and nobody I trust can clay it.

Someone suggested using a thicker head gasket to make up for the milling, and I need help deciding which gasket to buy.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

Straight up if you told the machine shop to only mil .015 and they milled .05 its on them to replace that block. Just my opinion.

 

that compression really isnt to high 12.5:1 is what i would say the limit is with a good tune and 93 pump gas

 

How about a bigger set of primaries to reduce dynamic compression.

 

.050" is their standard re-surfacing procedure???
Thats alot, unless you meant .005" (five thousandths).

If no-one around you knows how to degree or clay an engine, I suggest reading through HT for a few hours. Theres some good info here on how to do both procedures.

 

x2...but obviously he didn't mean .005, or he wouldnt be having "high compression issues" lol.

 

No, I meant 0.005" resurfacing, which is what they always do. Initially, I had planned on using the stock bottom end, so I had the head milled 0.015". To clarify, total milling/decking is 0.020".

My problem is selecting a gasket to negate some or all of the milling/decking procedures, along with allowing me to drop the cams in and drive the car safely, as it will need to be broken in as well as tuned

 

As someone said before, you should be good on that with a good tune and 93 octane. Also tune it before breaking it in, lol. Just how you worded it. You always tow your car to the tuner. OEM 3 layer head gasket, not sure they make one thicker than that. Someone correct me if I'm wrong??

 

Cosmetic makes a 0.040" as well as a 0.51"

 

Cosmetic...lmao Good one Sorry I had to

Cometic gaskets are a quality gasket and it will help with any over milling issues that you have.

 

tunner series cams are drop in cams. just eave them at o,o and they are good to go. not if you had pro2s. different story.

 

Yeah I've been using my phone all day and I keep forgetting to correct the auto-correct lol. I knew it was Cometic lol

I'm sorry if this comes off as if I'm being an *******, but did you read my post? I need to make up for 0.020" being cut off the block and head, as well as the huge dome of jdm b16 pistons

 

YEAH i read the whole thing and i should of posted for every .040" removed, you advance your cam gears 1 CAM degree(both). EX:+1/+1 on each. So why cant you clay you own engine. It is so simple that a monkey can do.

 

Also what fuels do you have available at the gas station. If e85 is available. Run it.

 

i bought 345cc injectors hoping e85 would be available by now, but its not, so im stuck on 93.

so what im understanding is that if i stick the cams in at +0.5 degree each, im good to go?

 

They are not drop and go cams. There is a reason they need aftermarket springs and retainers and come with a Degree spec sheet. drop in cams you speak of are oem and if you did just drop in your cams and didn't degree them then you definitely aren't getting the most out of your engine.

 

for the OP if in doubt send your head and block to a reputable honda shop that specializes in honda performance engines and have them clay and degree your motor. trust me you'll be happier in the long run. you will need 550cc injectors to run E85 also do you have at least ectune or hondata to tune the car?.

 

just spoke with someone on the phone about claying it im looking at about $200 and an 8 hour round trip to Carlisle PA. i guess i'll spend the gasket money on head studs instead lol

 

I would get RDX 410 cc injectors. And of needed you bump up the base fuel pressure and make them over 500cc.

so what im understanding is that if i stick the cams in at +0.5 degree each, im good to go?[/QUOTE]

Yes for drop in setting butt like tagperformance said. if you want the most out of it. you would need to degree them.

Yes they are a drop in cam. Tunner series cams do not require to be degreed in. PRO series cams are the ones that require to be degreed in or you can ask a skunk 2 rep and they will tell you the drop in settings for them aswell. Oh and its common sense to run stiffer springs and retainers with bigger cams.

OP google how to clay an engine. it is simple. i have been looking for this one thread on claying a b series engine and i cant find it.

 

That great c-speed racing thread is no longer available. That was the best DIY combustion chamber clearance thread (clay) on the interwebz. It had full explanation and visuals.

 

yyyeeessss thats what i was looking for. sucks it got taken down.

 

i asked three different skunk2 reps, on three different occasions(hoping the first and second werent just blowing me off), and all three times i got different variations of the same answer.

because so much material was removed, they need to be degreed in.

Innovative Motorwerks will be doing the clay/degree. they charge $65/hr, he said 3 hours tops. John Kerr of J-K Tuning will then tune it, and we'll break it on on IMW dyno

 

do it yourself. heres some pics of mine. all you have to do is romove the bolt at the ends of the rocker shaft and push the rod out until the rockers on piston 1 fall out. remove the small vtec pin and put an air soft pellet in to help slide vtec into place. place rockers back onto shaft and replace bolts at the end of the shaft. reassemble motor with clay in the valve reliefs and turn your motor over twice until back to tdc. remove head and measure. it took me 2 hours to clay mine twice.

 

pics of the clay before and after i knotched my valve reliefs. it was my first time to clay a motor. very very easy and a good way to learn the b series head inside and out. not much to assemble a head. just gotta have the ***** to try. lmk if you need any more pics i can take for you like how to remove the rocker shaft. cheers.

 

The c speed racing site was good, too bad its gone.