Long story short, my stupidity allowed me to purchase a ITR without a smog cert from the private seller and I took to get it smogged so I can register it and it failed. The seller said I could get it smogged or I could wait 2 weeks before he got back from vacation and he'd do it. I needed a car so I said I'd do it, I asked if it would pass and he said it would. Yeah I know, stupid me.

The car failed two areas.

HC (PPM)
Test..........Max......Ave.........Meas
15mph.......61..........9...........62............ FAIL
25mph.......45.......... 7...........29

NO (PPM)
Test.........Max........Ave..........Meas
15mph......467........57.............478.......... .FAIL
25mph......754........50.............375

The only thing done to the car is DC header and AEM cold air intake, both with carb legal stickers.

Just to try some simple fixes I changed spark plugs, spark plug wires, oil change, and poured some of that "guaranteed to pass" stuff in my tank and ran it through. Took it back in today and it was still running high.

Doing some light googling is pointing me towards the EGR valve or the catalytic converter. Does this car have an EGR valve?

Please give me some advice. Car has 105k. Drives fine, no smoke from exhaust or anything.

I'm not looking to cheat the test really, I'd like to fix the problem.

 

Check the airfilter. If its okay the proceed to the following.

For the HC, since you already did a oil change add 3 bottles of gasline antifreeze to half a tank, fill up the tank after the test. For the nox, check or retard your ignition timing. If it's out of wack set it back to stock, if it's okay I'd retard it to 12 deg or so. Set it back after the smog.

 

Okay I'll check those. What's your thought on the EGR valve? (does the ITR even have one)

 

check ignition timing and the plugs. if it has 7s in it that could be one of the reasons it's not passing. switch back to 6s and it should burn hotter

 

I'll prob have to take it to shop, don't know that much about checking timing.

 

No egr on bseries. Also make sure the car is hot when they test it, take it on a good boot on the highway and leave it running, you don't want the cat to cool down.

Had some good experience trying to get my car to pass with pro1s, had to test it 3 times but it finally passed on the 3rd try.

 

i would go smog it again but make absolutely sure the car is nice and hot. looking at your readings it appears the car was cold or allowed to cool down. Notice how it only failed at 15mph?

That is the first part of the dyno test and at 25mph your readings cleaned right up.

You have a DC header which is better for performance but won't hold the heat a well as the thick cast oem manifold. Give it a shot.. most places give you a free retest.

 

Can you post up the rest of the VIR?
If you warm it up more you might bring it down enough to pass but something is not right. You shouldn't be barely passing.

 

Talked to seller, he will pay for all repairs. Car was good and hot when it was tested.

%CO2 14.9 @ 2111rpm @15mph test
%CO2 14.7 @ 2422rpm @ 25mph test

%O2 - Says 0.0 for both tests

HC (PPM)
Test..........Max......Ave.........Meas
15mph.......61..........9...........62............ FAIL
25mph.......45.......... 7...........29

CO (%)
Test.........Max........Ave..........Meas
15mph.....(.54).......(.02)........(.11)
25mph.....(.53)........(.03).......(.02)

NO (PPM)
Test.........Max........Ave..........Meas
15mph......467........57.............478.......... .FAIL
25mph......754........50.............375

 

If the seller says he will pay for all repairs, take it to a dealer/good test and repair station and have them figure it out. You actually do have the law on your side for this.

It looks to me like the cat is possibly getting weak. I would replace the cap/rotor and the PCV valve, reset the timing, and run it again. Its possible that might be enough to get it to pass. Anything more is going to need some diagnostic equipment.

 

If it is the OEM cat @ 105K, then yeah...chances are it has seen better days.

You might want to look for a used cat (or new oem replacement) and/or ITR OEM exhaust manifold.

With those, you should pass.

 

I have the oem exhaust manifold, should I replace the greddy with it?