s2000 blown rings or valves or valve seals???
(i dont know to much about the internals of a car the only thing iv done like that is change a oil pump and head gasket on a sohc vtec)
but i just picked up a s2k and done lil by lil to it and have benn autocrossing alot and iv just reacently notice lil oil smoke clouds from my car and it seems to be getting worse and worse az i drive it i did a comprestion test #1 208 #2 210 #3 193 #4 201 and people iv talked to at the car meet tell me its not rings its valve guids or seals(dont know if ther the same) i run royal puple in my car and it kinda started when i swiched over to it and after ridding it hard in orgon auto x. i have megan single exhaust with megan rezzantor and stock header every thing els is the same im going to do a leak down test duno if that will tell me any thing but any help would be nice i just hit 100k miles thx guys and sry if this is scrambled im on my cell phone
but i just picked up a s2k and done lil by lil to it and have benn autocrossing alot and iv just reacently notice lil oil smoke clouds from my car and it seems to be getting worse and worse az i drive it i did a comprestion test #1 208 #2 210 #3 193 #4 201 and people iv talked to at the car meet tell me its not rings its valve guids or seals(dont know if ther the same) i run royal puple in my car and it kinda started when i swiched over to it and after ridding it hard in orgon auto x. i have megan single exhaust with megan rezzantor and stock header every thing els is the same im going to do a leak down test duno if that will tell me any thing but any help would be nice i just hit 100k miles thx guys and sry if this is scrambled im on my cell phone
most likely valve seals/guides
they are not the same thing the guides are what the valves go into and aligns everything. very pricey to get those installed changed.
valve seals are pretty simple
they are not the same thing the guides are what the valves go into and aligns everything. very pricey to get those installed changed.
valve seals are pretty simple
well im sheer i can do it myself if i read some books and specs i have the tools and the sorces and my dad owns a shop but he is not the hellping type . so would a leak down test let me know if its the ringsz?? if its the rings ill just buy a whole new complet long block and slap it in but if its the head i could do that in a weeks time not months, ( i plan on rebuilding the head this up coming summer im going to do stage 2 cams with aem ecu
and of corse valve train and then test tune dyno runs
and of corse valve train and then test tune dyno runs
if you got all the answers or a means to get the answer, why don't you just spend the time to do the repair(s)? you come on here to talk to yourself in all your threads because you're not really listening to anyone's suggestions or feedback. Read your posts, you're so afraid of people making fun of you that you're posting what you think is the solution to your own question because you don't want someone to tell you and have them talk down to you. Here's a question, why bother asking if you're not going to listen?
If you did the compression test right (don't give me **** about how you didn't **** it up etc., i don't care.), I'll bet that cylinder's donezo. It's common to find scores on the cylinder walls from wear, as well as the rings beginning to wear out and let oil pass through on AP1's which is why the AP2 have different rings for the same piston design (domes changed, but compression height/design didn't).
But regardless of what the damage may be, you're looking at overhauling a bunch of **** regardless. If you get away with just replacing the valvetrain, your rings/bearings are next to go so choose wisely if you don't want to do things twice.
If you did the compression test right (don't give me **** about how you didn't **** it up etc., i don't care.), I'll bet that cylinder's donezo. It's common to find scores on the cylinder walls from wear, as well as the rings beginning to wear out and let oil pass through on AP1's which is why the AP2 have different rings for the same piston design (domes changed, but compression height/design didn't).
But regardless of what the damage may be, you're looking at overhauling a bunch of **** regardless. If you get away with just replacing the valvetrain, your rings/bearings are next to go so choose wisely if you don't want to do things twice.
Before you do anything my suggesting would be to ditch the Royal purple or the synthetic oils all together. Run a good quality conventional oil which is recommended per the manufactuer and run that car for a couple of oil changes. Your compression readings are well within specs even with the variation from your 3rd cylinder. I would say put some regular 10w30 into your engine and drive. If there is no change then further diagnose your car. There is NO added benefit to running the Royal Purple or to running fully synthetic oil in a car that doesnt require it.
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First and foremost...
When is it smoking? On deceleration? All the time? At idle?
Considering the ap1s have a tendency to suck up some oil into the pcv system during hard right turns, and that you have been tracking it...my guess would be just that.
If it smoke on deceleration, most likely the seals, which can be replaced without removing the head, which is not only cheaper, but also easier than having to remove the entire motor.
Bad rings are obviously the worst, as it would smoke more often on deceleration, acceleration, idle, etc. Its more pronounced when it's the rings and usually requires for the removal of the motor to fix.
On the contrary to popular belief, bad rings usually give you BETTER compression numbers, so a compression test usually doesn't help determining anything.
Go out and try to duplicate some of the habits you do on the track. Take a hard right turn into a parking lot and see it it puffs a cloud of smoke. Also decelerate on the highway and give it some load, and see if it smokes.
If it only smokes on hard right hand turns, it's not really a big deal, unless you mind the sudden abrupt loss of power. An oil catch can or breather should probably be next on your list if you continue to track the car.
Let us know how it turns out...best of luck
When is it smoking? On deceleration? All the time? At idle?
Considering the ap1s have a tendency to suck up some oil into the pcv system during hard right turns, and that you have been tracking it...my guess would be just that.
If it smoke on deceleration, most likely the seals, which can be replaced without removing the head, which is not only cheaper, but also easier than having to remove the entire motor.
Bad rings are obviously the worst, as it would smoke more often on deceleration, acceleration, idle, etc. Its more pronounced when it's the rings and usually requires for the removal of the motor to fix.
On the contrary to popular belief, bad rings usually give you BETTER compression numbers, so a compression test usually doesn't help determining anything.
Go out and try to duplicate some of the habits you do on the track. Take a hard right turn into a parking lot and see it it puffs a cloud of smoke. Also decelerate on the highway and give it some load, and see if it smokes.
If it only smokes on hard right hand turns, it's not really a big deal, unless you mind the sudden abrupt loss of power. An oil catch can or breather should probably be next on your list if you continue to track the car.
Let us know how it turns out...best of luck
Joined: May 2003
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From: Intelligence plus character
valve seals will show when you start the car. I think its blue. Might be wrong i cant recall. You never stated the mileage.
^^^if it's the valve seals, it would show under load or deceleration, not idle. If they are worn enough, yes, it will show at idle, but blue smoke is more evident when decelerating and accelerating mostly.
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