I've searched and searched and searched for possible solutions to my problem but I haven't found anyone who has had the same issues as I have and have fixed their problem. Most of the time, if the car has been running then shut off for a while, i ll try to start the car again and it won't start. I put the key in the ignition turn to start and I get nothing. All the dash lights come on, I can hear the fuel pump come on, and I hear a slight click in the engine compartment. I then pop the hood, take a short peice of wire, touch the top terminal of the solenoid and battery positive and the car starts. It starts every single time i do this. I've swapped the coil out with a brand new one and I have the same problem. Swapped ICM with brand new one, same problem. Swapped ignition switch with brand new one, same problem. I have also replaced the distributor cap and rotor because they were really old and it was time, also have new wires. Could someone please give me some sort of diagnostic procedure or test so that I can get to the bottom of this please, thanx.

 

If you let it sit for 15-20 minutes, does it start back up?

 

starter solenoid could be going bad and not working when really hot.

also main relay could be going out

 

Its got a brand new starter and solenoid and a brand new main relay. As a matter of fact when I bought the new main relay and installed it I tried to start the car and it did the same thing. If I'm lucky I can let it sit for a good 30 mins and it might start up but that's IF I'm lucky, the planets would have to be in perfect alignment and I would have to be facing north and all that good stuff for it to work out right. But like I said I can manualy start it up with a jumper wire every single time no matter how hot it is.

 

So have you put a meter to the small wire and read the voltage......and most of that "other" stuff has nothing to do with the starter not running.

Auto or manual? A security system or remote start?

 

Well see that's my question. What wires do I have to check and what voltage am I looking for? The starter will start the car if I run a jumper wire from the top terminal on the starter solenoid to the battery pos post on the battery every single time I do it no matter how hot the car is. It has an auto transmission and a Autopage keyless entry alarm system.

 

That small wire on the starter-same one you are jumping(BLK/WHT ? I think). Should have 12V When you go to "start" on the key Switch. If it does not, I'd go to the key switch and test there as well.

 

Ok thanks man, ill try that and ill let you know what happens.

 

my car has the exact same problem. 94 prelude 5spd with some kind of security immobilizer. i hate that thing. cant wait to figure out how to rip it out...


also tried replacing the main relay and the starter. main relay did nothing. replacing the starter made it even worse. i bench tested the new starter also. the clutch switch, the starter cut relay, the ignition switch are all thats left im thinking mine is the ignition switch

 

So I tested the BLK/WHT wire at the solenoid during a hot/no start condition. I had my girlfriend hold the key on start and I got 5.63 volts. Question, what part of the switch do I test?

 

If you just changed the starter/solenoid and main relay then I'd say you have a bad ignition switch.

 

Might be the switch, test the same BLK/WHT wire at the switch. Same output then......bad switch. If that is true, try calling the dealer to see if if "might" still be under recall??????

 

If you can run a wire from the Battery to the starter and it starts, it's the positive wire that runs from the battery to the starter.

If ur not getting ppower from one wire and you use another from location to location and it works, that tells you the old one isn't letting juice through. Check the wire, connectors and clean the connection points off.

 

I definately see your reasoning on this but, I can also run that same wire from the starter solenoid to the battery positive wire that is bolted to the starter/solenoid that runs up to the battery pos on the battery itself and it still starts. That's how I did it before, then I. Just started going to the battery post instead because its easier to get to. Its a little cramped down there if you know what I mean. Many thanks for your advice tho sir.

 

hm, I once knew an old Cavalier that only ran if a wire was run from the positive of the battery, inside the car and to the positive of the passenger window switch. Otherwise it wouldn't start and run.

Figure that one out :p

 

Have you tested the key switch under the same no start condition.

 

I had the same problem as listed above on my 94 honda accord LX. When Im driving and the engine gets hot, the car would just shut completely off on the highway. I still had lights but the engine was shut off. It turned out that the coil in the distributer was going. I changed the distributor and that fixed the problem. If its your distributor, buy one from ebay or ROck auto.com. I paid $220 at autozone for a remanufactured one. Hope this helps