Me and a buddy just got back from picking up his new car. a 92 hatch with a d15 swap with y8 head. I build ford v8 cars but this is my first go at a honda.

I have tried doing a little research here and there before picking it up and I understand that the d15 is a punk motor and the y8 flows a little more air than the head that was on it. it is a sohc motor and it runs alright. not a rocket by any means but it starts, runs, and gets good gas milage. the swap has 9k on it so its pretty fresh and all of the work was done by a performance shop nearby. Other owner told me about the car bogging slightly during accel if the AC is on and not really when it is off. he said that the shop told him that the fuel filter needed to be changed and could be the culpret. the computer is supposedly the one from the car that the motor came from so i assume it should be the correct one. car has full cold air kit and a full exhaust including headers.

one thing i noticed is that after driving home the idle was somewhat irratic and also if you put it in neutral while the car is rolling (on the highway for example) the idle will jump from 800-1500 or so.

I dont know exactly what is wrong but does anybody have any ideas or should I check anything else to make sure everything was done right? thanks

 

iacv

 

Yeah i did a search and found that to be a big deal too. Gonna throw a fuel filter on it and clean the iac tomorrow. Thanks

 

what model civic is it? how do you KNOW its a y8 head? is it even wired for VTEC?

 

Does it have any check engine lights on?

 

It is a 92 hatch. it has sunroof, power windows, power locks, AC, and no PS. Seller told me it was a y8 and he had all the work done by redline racing in Arlington TX. He said vtec was hooked up and the oil jet in the d15 was pulled to make it work and all. there is no CEL on right now and i just cleaned the IACV and put a new fuel filter on it. It helped the idle issue while the car is rolling and now it just has a low idle lump when it is idling at a stop. car will go from around 800 to around 200 and just continue that lump as if it was about to die but wont. I have not checked the TPS or the ignition timing either and I am still learning how to do so. I cleaned the IACV as per the instructions in the tutorial.

 

Friend told me that the cel just came on. ill check it in a few hours and tell yall what reads.

 

its gona be slow with the ac on

 

check engine light turned off on its own while he was driving home. It seems to idle fine until it warms up. It then gets really choppy and hesitates when you start driving from a standstill. any ideas?

 

make sure all the plugs are in the right place also try and look for vaccum leaks

 

Pull the CEL code.

 

Would there be a code with the cel off? I'll check for leaks also. What about ignition timing? Or maybe it needs a tune?

 

What ecu is it running? I got my money on either the tps or the iacv.

 

It's the p28 ecu.

 

and i cleaned the IAC, and I was thinking about checking the FITV.

how would I go about adjusting the TPS? on a lot of cars, you can just back off on the screws and it wll slide to adjust but is there a proper way? thanks

 

A lot of these questions you're asking have answers in the FAQ.
Also address the FITV.
Do a FULL tune up which would include changing the fuel filter as was recommended.

 

I did change the filter, I used the faq section to help with what I've done so far but idk about the tps. It helps with the fitv. Cel is off again. Comes off and on sporadically

 

i have the same issue with my d15b block and d16y-something head (P2A-7)

 

did a lot more research and found that I have a D15B2 block and Y8 head. This is a common mini-me setup and i also have the y8 intake manifold, which does not have a fitv. i once again cleaned the IAC valve and checked for any vac leaks and plugs that are in the wrong place. it seems to idle fine until it warms up, then gives me the lump. im thinking it either A) needs a new IAC valve, or B) needs ignition timing re-done (because i havnt done that). I feel that if the timing was off, it would do it during engine warm-up as well. I live in mesquite, TX if somebody wants to hit me up and help in exchange for a 6-pack or something. or give me a call at 214-668-2995.

We are going back to west texas tomorrow and it will be a 5hr trip so im hoping the car will be okay. seems to do fine on the highway but still.

 

Arg. You're right. Was concentrating on the fact it was a 92.

 

my friends car had the opposite ran like crap till warmed up then the cel would come on and it would run fine

 

bah, plugs are black at the rims, but look okay at the diode.. its running rich. o2 sensor looks like ***** on the outside and idk how many miles are on it but the motor only has 9k so i was hoping it was newer. if it is bad though, it could be the culpret to running rich and possibly the idle issue.

 

x2

 

I would change the o2 sensor as well;Civic's run so much better with new ones(I'd recommend NTK) best of luck,Matt.

 

Pull the CEL code. It will still be in the ECU even with the light off. I suspect a coolant sensor or marginal wiring to it.